I'm out of ideas, guys. (Truck runs like crap no matter what I do).

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jdyates

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The code was cleared with bat disconnect. That it's not there now means it's no longer a fault.

code 12 means no tach signal when the engine is not running. Most think it's the beginning of the diagnostic cycle. You will always get the code 12 if there's no other active fault code.

Take it for a drive and see what you get.

Seems to be running ALOT better. There's still a VERY slight twitch at idle, but nowhere near as bad as before. Didn't bog down off of any red lights, either.

I was curious about the timing. Its set right at 0* with EST unplugged, would advancing it a bit help her run a little better?
 

great white

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Seems to be running ALOT better. There's still a VERY slight twitch at idle, but nowhere near as bad as before. Didn't bog down off of any red lights, either.

I was curious about the timing. Its set right at 0* with EST unplugged, would advancing it a bit help her run a little better?

Set it at factory until you know the problem is sorted.

Drive it for a couple days to see if it's really gone or just a coincidence.

Generally, you can gain some benefit from advancing the base timing on gassers.

But guys often try to apply old techniques to new tech without understanding what's really going on. On older systems ( ie: pre EFI and post points) you could adjust base timing and it would add to total timing since the dist weights would move out at their determined speed and add the same amount they did before advancing base. Hence; more total timing and a few more ponies.

The thing is, total advance is controlled by the ecm on these trucks. I could be wrong (memory isnt quite what it used to be), but i seem to remember that advancing base timing won't change total advance.

That needs to be done in the spark tables in the ecm by editting and reflash.

Even if you dial in too much, the ecm will start seeing the knock count going up and start pulling timing out. Something you had to do yourself (ears) before knock sensors and efi if you dabbled with base timing and weights.

To much base timing will also make starting (hot and cold) harder.

Someone can chime in here if i'm remembering it wrong...I don't really mess with gassers that much anymore and it's been a long while since I've been down in the guts of one as old as a 92....
 
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grampadirt

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I think you nailed it pretty well.I advanced the timing on my 454 4* a while back and noticed a little improvement in performance but when the summer came around and temps went up so did pinging in the engine.Once the pinging started the ecm pulled timing and the performance was actually worse than stock,so now I set it at OEM(4 before on a BBC)and leave it there.Also,it runs fine on 87 octane(with a few knock counts but not too bad).
 

jdyates

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Alrighty guys, update. Truck is now running GREAT at idle and cruising speeds after replacing the MAF and zip-tying the connector solid, but still basically shuts off if I give her too much throttle. Tomorrow at the shop, I plan on probing the wiring to the fuel pump to make sure its getting proper power (should It be 12v?) And test the fuel pressure. Will update tomorrow afternoon!
 

great white

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As suspected, you've probably got a hockey sock of things going on.

Now that the map is sorted, pull the trouble codes again and see what you have.

If nothing shows up, them we can start systems tests...
 

jdyates

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Made a crappy video of driving it. If you pay close attention, you can hear when it cuts out (when i give it gas) and the engine just kinda goes "thump, thump, thump" until eventually it picks up and HAULS.

WARNING: Exhaust and wind noise could potentially be loud if your volume is too high. Also, just before anyone says anything, my gauges are alot brighter than they look in the video lol. Also, the road I was on was completely empty, I made sure of that before even pulling my phone out or accelerating unsafely.

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axisT6

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Alrighty guys, update. Truck is now running GREAT at idle and cruising speeds after replacing the MAF and zip-tying the connector solid, but still basically shuts off if I give her too much throttle. Tomorrow at the shop, I plan on probing the wiring to the fuel pump to make sure its getting proper power (should It be 12v?) And test the fuel pressure. Will update tomorrow afternoon!


Your truck has a MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor)? Did I miss that somewhere?
 
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