Well it fixed the check engine light but now runs like crap

[Zeronight001]

On top of that when I disconnected the sensor the truck did not want to start and was just acting super weird gauges moving all over the place a clicking sound and then eventually I got it to start. So that tells me that tells me to assume that I should have a grounding issue right?

 

[Zeronight001]

Also sorry I forgot to mention I pulled off the idle air control valve sensor actuator and clean that and the interior of the throttle body control system

 

[Schurkey]

Verify fuel pressure at prime, and when under load.

Assure all the usual "tune-up" parts and procedures are in order: Cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs. Check electronic spark advance including the knock sensor retard. Verify PCV, EGR, EVAP. Wouldn't hurt to do a compression test on all eight.

Connect a scan tool, look for "codes", but remember that the real diagnostic power is in the data stream: Sensor data, computer output data, the fuel trims, the misfire counts per cylinder, etc.

 

[Zeronight001]

So I just replaced the distributor which was way overdue after I pulled the old one the gears were nearly sheared. After installing the distributor nothing was better but later I realized I should use the stock clamp instead of what came with the accel distributor. The clamp that came with the Excel is square and clamps all the way around the entire shaft the clamp that came with the truck just grabs on to the lip. It's still not perfect but it is definitely miles better than what it was I do feel though a timing chain is in my future thank you

 

[Schurkey]

So I just replaced the distributor which was way overdue after I pulled the old one the gears were nearly sheared. After installing the distributor nothing was better

Worn-out distributor gears are sadly common on Vortec distributors.

DID YOU ADJUST THE CAM OFFSET/CAM RETARD using your scan tool? Spec is + or - 2 degrees at ~1100 rpm. The original distributor clamp will allow this adjustment.

I do feel though a timing chain is in my future

That's a separate diagnosis, generally performed by turning the crank by hand while watching the distributor rotor. The indicated slack is a combination of actual timing chain slack plus whatever slack happens to be between the distributor gear and it's mating gear on the camshaft. With a new distributor gear, that gear slack will be minimized leading to a more-accurate measurement of the timing chain slack.

 

[Zeronight001]

I adjusted the distributor housing as far to the left rotation as I could go. After that I used my Cheapo Walmart odb2 scanner and saw that the timing retard was only at 2° so I think I'm good but what do I know I can be totally wrong

 

[Zeronight001]

Originally when I used the clamp that came with the distributor it was showing negative 23°

 

[Schurkey]

I adjusted the distributor housing as far to the left rotation as I could go. After that I used my Cheapo Walmart odb2 scanner and saw that the timing retard was only at 2° so I think I'm good but what do I know I can be totally wrong

Originally when I used the clamp that came with the distributor it was showing negative 23°

Sounds like you've done good.