I'm out of ideas, guys. (Truck runs like crap no matter what I do).

[jdyates]

i feel the same way no point to pay an outrageous price for something i can (eventually) get done myself

Lmao! I'm exactly the same when it comes to "eventually". I have a bad habit of not fixing something until it ****** me off.

And this is pissing me off. Haha!

 

[bluex]

I'm thinking the same! Might actually do it this summer for sh!ts and giggles. Haha.



Might sound dumb, but I don't trust anyone other than myself with my truck. My uncle, the PO who owned it for literally my entire life, always took it to his best friend, who owns his own shop. My uncle is not mechanically inclined at all (FBI agent, haha) and could never tell when his buddy ******-rigged the work he did. I had no idea either until I started working on her myself. Every inch of truck, front to back, has something rigged up or bypassed. To the point that a full frame-off resto is in order in the next decade or so.

No it doesn't sound dumb, I understand wanting to do it yourself. But at some point it becomes more cost effective to have it fixed rather than keep guessing at it. But it's your money....

 

[jdyates]

No it doesn't sound dumb, I understand wanting to do it yourself. But at some point it becomes more cost effective to have it fixed rather than keep guessing at it. But it's your money....

I also tell myself that I'm doing it for the experience. Which, in itself, is worth the cash spent. I am also very meticulous. If I don't do it right or botch it the first time, I do it again and correct myself, or make sure I DO get it right the first time. Therefore, If something f%&ks up, I only have myself to blame. Saves time and inconvenieces for everyone haha.

 

[Tricky's_Limitedhoe]

You can take it to a shop or dealer just to pinpoint your problem and do the job yourself. It has happened where some new parts have been defective.


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[jdyates]

You can take it to a shop or dealer just to pinpoint your problem and do the job yourself. It has happened where some new parts have been defective.


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Makes sense. I'm off work tomorrow so I'm dedicating the day to testing all kinds of stuff, re-wiring some stuff, and maybe having mounts for my brushguard built. Will report back. If this lasts too much longer, I'll have to take it to a shop.

 

[great white]

... Every inch of truck, front to back, has something rigged up or bypassed....

Oh, it's one of those trucks.

We used to cringe when one of those vehicles came in and we lifted the hood.

It could literally be anything.

You need to start tracing things down and be systematic about it.

Ie: fuel delivery system, injection system, spark control, related wiring, etc, etc....

It's a slow and laborious task, but with a seriously molested vehicle it's the only way unless you get lucky and the problem jumps out when you look at it .

I'm having a hard time understanding why you've got such severe hard start and stall issues with no trouble codes. Especially the behaviour you describe.

Have you checked them again?

Try using the "paperclip method" instead if the snap on scanner. We used to have all manner of incorrectly reported codes and system tests with the multi-buck snap on equipment and older gm stuff. The less expensive "hand held" consumer style ones were worse.....

You should at least have history codes for knock sensor and cts from what you've recently done.

When i get home in a few days i'll check the fsm's on the shelf and scan up any pages that seen relevant.

Not sure if i have a 95 in the library though..,,

 

[jdyates]

Oh, it's one of those trucks.

We used to cringe when one of those vehicles came in and we lifted the hood.

It could literally be anything.

You need to start tracing things down and be systematic about it.

Ie: fuel delivery system, injection system, spark control, related wiring, etc, etc....

It's a slow and laborious task, but with a seriously molested vehicle it's the only way unless you get lucky and the problem jumps out when you look at it .

I'm having a hard time understanding why you've got such severe hard start and stall issues with no trouble codes. Especially the behaviour you describe.

Have you checked them again?

Try using the "paperclip method" instead if the snap on scanner. We used to have all manner of incorrectly reported codes and system tests with the multi-buck snap on equipment and older gm stuff. The less expensive "hand held" consumer style ones were worse...,.

You should at least have history codes for knock sensor and cts from what you've recently done.

When i get home in a few days i'll check the fsm's on the shelf and scan up any pages that seen relevant.

Not sure if i have a 95 in the library though..,,

It's a '92. And I kind of exaggerated. When I said everything is rigged, I really meant wiring. The entire ass-end lighting harness is electrical tape and blue splice connectors, under the dash is a mess, and there's some wiring under the hood that's obviously not stock. Even the radiator to thermostat hose is too long at touches the hood when it's closed. It was a sheriff truck for a few years so there was some strobe lights, red/blue lights, and A-pillar light on it before it was mine.

 

[jdyates]

Sprayed carb cleaner all over the intake and TB today, not so much as a squeak from the motor. That's good, I suppose. Gonna tak the TB completely off and clean the hell out of it for shiggles. It's pretty dirty.

 

[jdyates]

Update. Did the papeerclip jump, got code 34, low MAP sensor voltage. Went ahead and swapped my extra MAP on, and ziptied the connector into it's base, since the retaining clips are broken off (always have been). We'll see what happens.

EDIT: Unplugged the batt to reset the code, plugged it back in and the code didn't show up, just code 12. Hmm....

 

[great white]

Update. Did the papeerclip jump, got code 34, low MAP sensor voltage. Went ahead and swapped my extra MAP on, and ziptied the connector into it's base, since the retaining clips are broken off (always have been). We'll see what happens.

EDIT: Unplugged the batt to reset the code, plugged it back in and the code didn't show up, just code 12. Hmm....

The code was cleared with bat disconnect. That it's not there now means it's no longer a fault.

code 12 means no tach signal when the engine is not running. Most think it's the beginning of the diagnostic cycle. You will always get the code 12 if there's no other active fault code.

Take it for a drive and see what you get.