Ignorance is Bliss.

[CrustyJunker]

You're correct. That would be the right kit. Mind you that kit (if pictured correctly) is just gaskets, o-rings, and a new fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.

If you have don't have fuel leaks before the injectors or low fuel pressure issues, you probably don't need the whole kit unless you'd like to rebuild your throttle body for peace of mind.

 

[BlueCollar89]

You're correct. That would be the right kit. Mind you that kit (if pictured correctly) is just gaskets, o-rings, and a new fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.

If you have don't have fuel leaks before the injectors or low fuel pressure issues, you probably don't need the whole kit unless you'd like to rebuild your throttle body for peace of mind.

Yea I'm definitely a peace of mind kind of feller. My dad argues with me about that mentality , as he is more of an "if it aint broke, don't fix it" kinda feller while I figure if you're ripping **** apart you might as well cover all your bases so to not have to do it again (if you do it right lol) for a much longer time.

Given that everything on this truck seems to be 100% original parts, I'd like to just play it safe and rebuild what I can. I'm legitimately intending to rebuild this thing from Roof to Axel my self; but I tend to be a bit ambitious haha.

Thanks for the confirmation, I'ma go pick that up here today and try to get it done after work! I'll be sure to share pictures and progress just for posterity sakes

 

[CrustyJunker]

Nothing wrong with that kind of thinking! Just work carefully, as some of the parts on the injector pod can get stuck together over time. Not trying to scare you, just keep in mind it's cast aluminum, not very thick, and can crack and give you trouble. A small rubber mallet, block of wood, or plastic hammer might be handy. If it doesn't come apart, it should only require a tap or a few to break free after fasteners are removed. So far my personal trucks had come apart without much struggle.

 

[BlueCollar89]

I've got a rubber mallet, and block o' wood ready when the time comes. I had the auto parts store price out rotors, brakes, TBI rebuild kit and gear oil. They wanted $365 0_o.... I looked it up on Rock Auto and the Rotors, Brakes, and TBI rebuild kit comes out to bout $75 + shipping. Probably go that route and then just pick up the differential gear oil here locally.

Might have to provide a few detail services to pay for all this, but I'll figure it out haha.

 

[JCribb]

I have the electric actuator swap in my 94, and it worked as intended when I demanded it to do so. I got mine off of amazon and I “think” it cost me a little over a hundred for the wiring harness and actuator, maybe it was 150 like you said.

Either way that was a few years ago when I did the swap and it recently stopped working last year. I think it was my own doing driving through some deep water last year after a nasty set of days when it just rained like hell.

I eventually pulled the fuse and unplugged the wiring from the t-case switch after nothing it was randomly engaging going down the road while the case was in 2wd. I need to get back to figuring out what happened, but I have other priorities that need my attention first, plus I have an operational 4wd in my fleet should the need arise to warrant its usage.

As far as I know, being that you have a 94, it should be a 4L60-E for a halfton, and a 4L80-E for the 3/4 & 1 tons for transmission options. Naturally, someone could have upgraded it to the stronger one of the two that being the 4L80-E, but even that one had its own faults.

 

[BlueCollar89]

I have the electric actuator swap in my 94, and it worked as intended when I demanded it to do so. I got mine off of amazon and I “think” it cost me a little over a hundred for the wiring harness and actuator, maybe it was 150 like you said.

Either way that was a few years ago when I did the swap and it recently stopped working last year. I think it was my own doing driving through some deep water last year after a nasty set of days when it just rained like hell.

I eventually pulled the fuse and unplugged the wiring from the t-case switch after nothing it was randomly engaging going down the road while the case was in 2wd. I need to get back to figuring out what happened, but I have other priorities that need my attention first, plus I have an operational 4wd in my fleet should the need arise to warrant its usage.

As far as I know, being that you have a 94, it should be a 4L60-E for a halfton, and a 4L80-E for the 3/4 & 1 tons for transmission options. Naturally, someone could have upgraded it to the stronger one of the two that being the 4L80-E, but even that one had its own faults.

I appreciate the info!

Based on just what I've read, is it possible the actuator was somehow getting current when it shouldn't have that would cause it to engage? Idk anything about electricity, but in my head I'm thinking like a reverse short. Don't mind me, I'm stuck on stoopid right now so can't convey my thoughts hah.

Would be pretty cool to have the heavy duty transmission. Ideally I want this thing built for low end rather than speed. I want low gear to be so low it make climbing Everest a breeze .

 

[JCribb]

I appreciate the info!

Based on just what I've read, is it possible the actuator was somehow getting current when it shouldn't have that would cause it to engage? Idk anything about electricity, but in my head I'm thinking like a reverse short. Don't mind me, I'm stuck on stoopid right now so can't convey my thoughts hah.

Would be pretty cool to have the heavy duty transmission. Ideally I want this thing built for low end rather than speed. I want low gear to be so low it make climbing Everest a breeze .

There’s several things I have changed and or recreated because I didn’t like how the factory designed it, so I made it better.

I found out the hard way about the thermal actuator, when I got stuck and needed to use it, all to find out it said get bent. I’m seriously considering leaning towards the cable actuator for mine just because it’s tiring to have to deal with these actuators. I have mine in my eBay watch list for $125.

 

[BlueCollar89]

There’s several things I have changed and or recreated because I didn’t like how the factory designed it, so I made it better.

I found out the hard way about the thermal actuator, when I got stuck and needed to use it, all to find out it said get bent. I’m seriously considering leaning towards the cable actuator for mine just because it’s tiring to have to deal with these actuators. I have mine in my eBay watch list for $125.

I'm so tired of replacing actuators that I'll probably just end up forgetting that I even put an on demand in there lol! So far, nobody's given me any indication that having on demand 4x4 would cause any form of damage; if that's the case I'll probably just leave it indefinitely. I don't like havin to depend on electronics when good old fashioned mechanics work every time (unless you destroy the mechanics of course lol).

If anything I'd look into the posi-lock as well, when I get the money. I suppose if one just absolutely had to have his pretty little indicator lights letting them know they were in 4x4, then my little back yard McGyver shaft wouldn't do them any good lol.

I was looking into exhaust systems last night, and the different options. Would want to do the manifold but I keep reading about how certain manifolds block access to spark plugs. I'd rather not have to rip the manifold off every time I need to check/replace spark plugs. So I got some more studying to do.

I want her to be loud, ideally a true dual setup with flowmasters for that deep rumble.

Definitely curious as to your back yard modifications! I'll look into your content for sure!

 

[JCribb]

I was looking into exhaust systems last night, and the different options. Would want to do the manifold but I keep reading about how certain manifolds block access to spark plugs. I'd rather not have to rip the manifold off every time I need to check/replace spark plugs. So I got some more studying to do.

I want her to be loud, ideally a true dual setup with flowmasters for that deep rumble.

Definitely curious as to your back yard modifications! I'll look into your content for sure!

I am running shorty headers (same length as manifolds) and they hooked up to my exhaust just fine with no modifications. As far as sound goes, there are too many manufacturers to list, my suggestion would be to listen to exhaust sound clips on youtube for the best idea. Before you sell yourself on the "flowmaster" name, look at Jones full boar, and the summit racing house brand "flowmaster" mufflers. You can save a ton of money just at this point.

I currently have the Jones full boar race mufflers that are essentially a flowmaster super 10 series muffler which is a single chamber muffler. This is as close to straight pipes you can get and still have some sort of muffler. I initially had them dumped at the axle, but it was so loud in the cab, you really couldn't carry on a conversation with the person next to you. I did eventually get tail pipes put on and it helped a lot, but I am going to have the summit racing version of the flowmaster super 40's put on here shortly. I have a true dual setup without a cat.

I really dig the real trucks don't shift themselves in your signature, and I totally agree with you there. Here's a link to my build thread: https://www.gmt400.com/threads/94-z71.34945/

 

[RichLo]

So far, nobody's given me any indication that having on demand 4x4 would cause any form of damage; if that's the case I'll probably just leave it indefinitely.

If anything I'd look into the posi-lock as well, when I get the money. I suppose if one just absolutely had to have his pretty little indicator lights letting them know they were in 4x4, then my little back yard McGyver shaft wouldn't do them any good lol.

I replied a while ago about your McGyver actuator. Its a good idea and it'll work great BUT dont tighten that bolt very hard... if its not going in far enough the gears aren't aligned inside and you will need to rock the truck back and forth slightly to get them to mesh. Only go just past hand tight at most, any more torque than that you could crack the weak cast aluminum differential housing