How much better is the 14B 9.5" SF really?

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MMcc

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So I've been saving and scheming for the next big upgrade to my '97 K1500 Suburban, 3.73. Ages ago I sold myself on the idea of an axle swap and now I'm getting cold feet. Let me know what you think.

My truck is increasingly becoming less of a daily driver and more of a weekender. Lots of desert washboard and double tracks through the mountains.
The G80 LSD in my 10-bolt failed last spring so now is the time to pull the trigger before winter comes.

Option 1 - work with a local shop to build a 9.5" SF, 6 lug, with 4.10 or 4.56 and an Eaton TrueTrac. Have a bomber axle that I wont have to think about for the next 150k miles (more?). That piece of mind would be nice for the couple of times a year I push up against the GVWR loaded to gills with 4 people and river gear. And the truck is only going to get heavier as dreams of rock sliders and custom bumpers come true.
Option 2 - rebuild the 10B. It seems the TrueTrac is more durable than the G80, so make that switch and any other beefier parts that are available. Regear to 4.30 from Nitro-Gear. Save some $$.

I'm running 33"s with no plans to go bigger. 4.30s seems 100% ideal but they're not available for the 9.5".
In either case, helper bags are in my future (looks like a fun project) and they'd actually help increase GVWR if paired with the 14-Bolt, right? Not that I'd expect a judge to agree...

How much better is the 14 B SF over the 10 B? I plan on having this truck for a lot of years to come and driving it rough. "Buy the best parts you can afford" seems like good advice but I also really want those 4.30s!
 

GoToGuy

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You change axle ratio it's a two differential job. Front and rear. 14 bolt 9.5 is stronger than your stock. After that next size up is an 8 lug axles.
 

MMcc

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Plus the added bonus of much better brakes. I’d just find a 14b with 3.73’s and call it a win.
When I'm loaded, it really struggles up and over mountains in third - even interstate passes.
If I stick with 3.73s, I'd be inclined to drop a tire size. Which I dont want to do...

Bigger drums is something that I havent put much emphasis on in the 'pro' column. That's a good reminder.

I havent been able to find a 14B with a G80, so I figured any junkyard axle I buy is getting opened up anyways.
 

MMcc

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You change axle ratio it's a two differential job. Front and rear. 14 bolt 9.5 is stronger than your stock. After that next size up is an 8 lug axles.
8 lug axles aint happening without a SAS. And that's not happening within the next 6-7 years, or ever if I'm honest with myself...
 

MMcc

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Either that or re-gear back AND front.
Form or function. :Good or Bad:
Function for sure. Looks are secondary.
I'm going to need every inch i can find to avoid dragging that 14B pumpkin :)

Gears up front is an expensive reality. But hey, ya get a rebuilt front diff out of the deal...
 
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Schurkey

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In a pickup, the 9.5" axle brings bigger drums (11.x) than the usual 254mm (10") leading-trailing shoe disaster.

But in a Suburban, I bet you already have the nice 11.x Duo-Servo drums.

So the brake upgrade isn't an upgrade, it's just "more (used) spare parts" for when something wears out.

The axle assembly itself is enormously stronger than the 8.5 ten bolt; but "most" (NOT "all") of the problem with the 8.5 is the crappy carrier (Open OR G80 Locker) which you'd be getting rid of anyway in favor of the TrueTrac. Still, bigger, stronger gears, bigger, stronger axle shafts, bigger, stronger axle tubes, bigger, stronger axle, carrier, and pinion bearings are 9.5" advantages not to be overlooked.

IF (big IF) you go with 4.10 gears, I think you stand a chance at finding a Treasure Yard 8.25" front differential with 4.10s, ready to go with just fresh seals and fluid. You go with any deeper ratio, and you'll have to open the differential 'cause you'll never find one with gears that deep.
 
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