Harmonic balancer question

[Rustjunky67]

So in my quest to get my truck put back together and locating PRECISE Top Dead Center, this is what I have upon installing "harmonical torsional balancer damper" and rotating to my piston stop that I made....
The only thing I can see that doesn't look right is this one little spot where the rubber ring is recessed slightly for about an inch and a half.... otherwise the rubber looks good no cracks or anything..... ‍
Should I replace with new or just go ahead and find my true tdc and roll with it? Thanks

 

[thinger2]

Kind of hard to tell from the pics but,
If you find true tdc off of the piston, and the balancer timing marks still line up,
That would not stop me from firing the engine.
It also depends on what youve done before.
If I just spent thousands of dollars on the engine I would have bought a new one just because.
If I just chain pulled it out of a swamp and want too see if it runs before I spend any money on it?
Light her up.
And now for the half assed hillbilly fix.
Take some hot soapy water and scrub all of the crud off of the rubber and rinse it well.
Let it dry.
soak a terry cloth wash rag with tire shine or mothers back to black or any rubber restoring chemical
Dont get it all over the place just push it into the rubber, let it soak, wipe off the excess.
Do it again the next day.
This is a very very temporary half assed fix.
The only thing this does is make that outer portion of the rubber swell up enough to keep more dirt and water from getting under that lip.
The inside could be totally oil soaked and disintegrated.
My online discount lawyer said I should tell you to run away and hide untill you can buy a new balancer and at least 5 thousand dollars of diagnostic equipment.
********.
If the marks line up and it doesnt wobble?
Run it.
If it looks like the engine is worth putting some money into?
Get a new one.

 

[Vanishing Point]

Once again we need the year, make, model, engine size, auto/manual, a/c or not, SMPFI/TBI and mileage of your vehicle!
Some say there is an old saying "If ain't broke don't fix it!" and "leave well enough alone" to the contrary,
I myself would replace any and all suspicious looking parts and items that seem to be questionable, the deterioration of the rubber ring swelling on the harmonic vibration damper being one. May have caused it to shift a little out of its original position, which would cause you concerns later on.
So after thoroughly cleaning the timing mark area utilizing your favorite brake cleaner, paint your timing mark groove line with white out on your (old or new harmonic vibration damper) and on the engine block "0" degree index mark so that they will show up and line up well under the timing light when you make your adjustments. But first and foremost utilize an ignition bump starter hookup to your starter to get #1 cylinder piston (all the way up to TDC) on its compression stroke and that both intake and exhaust valves are (seated) closed for that cylinder, and that the rotor in distributor cap is pointing towards #1 cylinder on the drivers side and in the correct firing order of the distributor spark plug tower and you should pretty much be ready to go. Be sure to electronically time your engine to the specifications called for in the repair manual or engine label related to the vehicles engine speed (RPM) utilizing a scanner for final adjustment. And good luck! and let us know how it all turns out for you.

 

[Schurkey]

"harmonical torsional balancer damper"

OK, that's new. But everyone seems to have their own name for the silly thing. It is absolutely NOT a "Harmonic balancer", because it's not intended to, nor effective for, balancing harmonics.

1997 C/K service manual calls it a "Crankshaft Balancer" in the V-6 section, page 6A-125. It's also a "Crankshaft Balancer" in the Small-Block section, for example page 6A-152. Same for the 6.5L Diesel, 6A-318. Same for the 7.4L, 6A-426.

Clearly, GM in '97 thinks it's a "Crankshaft Balancer".

I just HATE calling it a "balancer", especially on the small-blocks where it's neutral-balanced and therefore doesn't change the balance of the crankshaft. "Torsional Damper" for me, thankyouverymuch.

And I can justify that based on the 1988 C/K service manual. V-6, page 6A3-12, Small-Blocks, page 6A4-12, 7.4L page 6A5-8 6.2 Diesel page 6A6-9

Some time after 1988, GM lost their minds with regard to the Torsional Damper.

the rubber ring is recessed slightly for about an inch and a half.... otherwise the rubber looks good no cracks or anything..... ‍
Should I replace with new or just go ahead and find my true tdc and roll with it?

IF (big IF) the damper timing mark aligns with the "0" on the timing pointer at true TDC...I'd use it.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

OK, that's new. But everyone seems to have their own name for the silly thing.

1997 C/K service manual calls it a "Crankshaft Balancer" in the V-6 section, page 6A-125.

It's also a "Crankshaft Balancer" in the Small-Block section, for example page 6A-152.

Same for the 6.5L Diesel, 6A-318

Same for the 7.4L, 6A-426.

Clearly, GM in '97 thinks it's a "Crankshaft Balancer".

I just HATE calling it a "balancer", especially on the small-blocks where it's neutral-balanced and therefore doesn't change the balance of the crankshaft. "Torsional Damper" for me, thankyouverymuch.

Meh, I've always knew it as an Harmonic Balancer since the 70's but, torsional or whatever is cool, as long as we understand what we're talking about. Hell, even Blue Print calls them harmonic. I know, on my 377 stroker it's a 400 CI "weighted" balancer but - who cares

You must be registered for see images attach

My 1st 283's balancer lost its rubber and the outer ring. Ran with the inner only for ~15,000 miles before it grenaded. I just timed it by ear - if it would hardly crank when hot - too much timing

 

[Rustjunky67]

IF (big IF) the damper timing mark aligns with the "0" on the timing pointer at true TDC...I'd use it.

The picture shows
A) where factory (original) mark is
B) with my piston stop in cylinder #1, turned clockwise,
C) counter clockwise, and
D) where true TDC is.....
And of course, I just had to include a pic of my homemade piston stop tool, seeing as how I'd never even heard the words piston and stop together before..... seems to be the easiest, most accurate way to get EXACT TDC

 

[Rustjunky67]

Sorry if i made things confusing....
So my very first pic here shows the location of 0° on timing cover vs my damper factory mark....
Second picture is of the rubber that is seemingly pushed in for about an inch or so.....
In my follow up pics, you see my micrometer measuring the distance between where piston stop marks clock wise and counter clock wise were located....
Then you see those marks, true TDC mark, and factory mark.....
I agree for 50-75 bucks let's just get a new one and be done

 

[Schurkey]

Is "True" TDC thirteen degrees away from the factory mark?

Has the damper--or the timing cover--been replaced?

 

[BOOT]

Some of the new Dorman dampers I've gotten in the past few years, I returned cause the rubber wasn't even pressed in all the way(sticking out 1/4" on one all around).

Bought some Powerbond ones that looked good enough.

I use a Proform damper cover to check mine but it only works for older engines, idk if they have one for the newer engines with a different timing mark location.

 

[Rustjunky67]

Is "True" TDC thirteen degrees away from the factory mark?

Has the damper--or the timing cover--been replaced?

Yes I would say approximately 13 degrees away....
And I have no idea if damper or timing cover have been replaced....I can only speculate that timing cover is original because it is stamped made in Canada..... but nether has been replaced since I've owned it