Engine oil cooler delete question

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Pinger

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The answer to my question looks to be you take out the bypass behind the oil filter screw on fitting and then that makes the oil cooler adapter internals the exact same as a non oil cooler adapter, plug the cooler line ports with 2 3/8"npt fittings and your in .Putting it on now.Thanks for the suggestions. I hope this helps someone else.I am going to put the cooler back in service the next oil change I will use fittings like 67 chevy mechanic did on the adapter instead of the quick connects and will cut the outer crimps off my lines and remove the bad hoses, then get new high quality hydraulic hose to slide on the barbs and double clamp with hose clamps.

Proper high pressure hydraulic hose has such heavy steel braiding that it has to be crimped to seal. Normal hose clamps just aren't strong enough.
My buddy who is in the hydraulics business made me aware of this recently.
 

badco

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I put a normal adapter off older 350 and i use a regular oil filter. Has 1/4" clearance and ive never put a ding in filter even hard wheeling. Ive used a 51069 wix and gains another 1/4" if your concerned with clearance.

I pull trailers and haul loads all the time and had 325k on org engine and 180k without cooler and only pulled it because i had newer one ready. Original engine still going in another truck
 

Supercharged111

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It also serves to heat the oil more quickly. I've never seen hot oil temps without sustained high RPM operation. But the lines are cheap and easy enough to replace too.
 

Schurkey

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Here’s what I did:
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Chevrolet used to recommend minimum 1/2" tubing. That looks like 3/8, but even if it was 1/2, it was then crushed flat during bending which reduced the ID.

The oil cooler hoses on my '97 had 1/2" tubing, and smooth "mandrel" bends.
 

Crookedaxle

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Looking for a more economical route than replacing lines and have a supply of the horizonal filters,i dont tow with this truck so i dont need the cooler.I believe i have to take the bypass out of the center of the adapter behind the threaded filter screw on piece but not 100% sure.


I wouldn't cross the street if it meant I didn't have to stock "horizontal filters" for the foreseeable future. Who gives a rats a$$.
 

Supercharged111

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Chevrolet used to recommend minimum 1/2" tubing. That looks like 3/8, but even if it was 1/2, it was then crushed flat during bending which reduced the ID.

The oil cooler hoses on my '97 had 1/2" tubing, and smooth "mandrel" bends.

How much does it matter on this setup as it isn't the entirety of the oil flow going through the cooler as I understand it? On my 93 LT1 Camaro's oil cooler setup I run -10AN hose as it does support the full flow. IMO even -8 would be borderline and it seems GM agrees.
 

thinger2

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If you are going to eliminate the factory oil cooler, get rid of it entirely and use a stock 350 oil filter adapter and a shorty filter.
I used the Melling adapter and the ac delco ph 454 filter.
Easy to do
I think that using a hard return line like that is just asking for trouble.
If that cracks or breaks you loose all oil pressure and it will puke it dry before you can turn the stereo down
 
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badco

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If you are going to eliminate the factory oil cooler, get rid of it entirely and use a stock 350 oil filter adapter and a shorty filter.
I used the Melling adapter and the ac delco ph 454 filter.
Easy to do
I think that using a hard return line like that is just asking for trouble.
If that cracks or breaks you loose all oil pressure and it will puke it dry before you can turn the stereo down
Same filter i run on my race car but crossed to wix since i had a oil psi drop from a delco once. Ill post pic of my truck with full size filter and never any issues. Oil temp is something we watched close on dyno and anything above 180 would lose power rather than gain but below 145 was same way so optimal for what we was doing was 150ish
 

Supercharged111

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Same filter i run on my race car but crossed to wix since i had a oil psi drop from a delco once. Ill post pic of my truck with full size filter and never any issues. Oil temp is something we watched close on dyno and anything above 180 would lose power rather than gain but below 145 was same way so optimal for what we was doing was 150ish

You sure something else wasn't changing with oil pressure and causing that? Sure seems counterintuitive.
 
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