Door Issues 96 c2500

[Sramos03]

Hello guys wanted to ask for some help and guidance on my truck. I recently purchased my first truck and it happens to be a 1996 c2500. One of the main issue it currently has is that the driver door is a bit of a mess (pictures included). I’m new to trucks and recently completed my first oil change so that is how much mechanical experience I have (besides countless YouTube videos and car restoration shows I watch). The door is currently held in place by a tow strap. Is fixing the door something that can be accomplished with my low level of knowledge in car restoration or is this a job that would be better completed by a body shop. Thanks and appreciate the help!

 

[Hipster]

Your pins and bushings are probably shot and it looks like the door is hitting the striker or body above the striker pin. Trying to slam the door when it's not lined up with the striker pin can beat up the latch mechanism to the point it doesn't work. It all depends on how bad.

Replacing the pins and bushings and the latch if necessary are not really all that difficult but there are some pitfalls.

 

[someotherguy]

Look at his last pic in full size. It sure appears to me that the striker bolt got beat so many times that it broke the sheetmetal around it and someone has welded in a "patch" ...

Some skilled work on fixing up the striker bolt area is going to be critical here, because if that is off, then you'll never have the door aligned properly. That door shell appears to be shot, as well, indicated by the cracks above the interior grab handle area.

Hinges will definitely be egged out where the hinge pin should have an interference fit. This can be addressed with a little bit of hackery, but you'll solve half of it anyway when you replace that door with a better one.

BTW since your truck is a '96, stick to donor trucks from '96-up for a replacement door. It will be an easier swap for a number of reasons.

Richard

 

[GoToGuy]

The body area where the striker bolt mounts. That, weld job, that needs to be removed. Replace surface with new piece to bring level and add backside doubler to strengthen support. Will need template to ensure correctly placing new strike bolt.
If your not using the window door switch control, remove and put aside to protect it.
New inside door handle.
Are all the key slots on door upholstery, where the white barbed push fastners broken out? And the female part in door they fit in missing?
Window motor up and down?
Door lock unlock work?
Not real hard but detailed and time.
Good luck.

 

[Hipster]

Look at his last pic in full size. It sure appears to me that the striker bolt got beat so many times that it broke the sheetmetal around it and someone has welded in a "patch" ...

Some skilled work on fixing up the striker bolt area is going to be critical here, because if that is off, then you'll never have the door aligned properly. That door shell appears to be shot, as well, indicated by the cracks above the interior grab handle area.

Hinges will definitely be egged out where the hinge pin should have an interference fit. This can be addressed with a little bit of hackery, but you'll solve half of it anyway when you replace that door with a better one.

BTW since your truck is a '96, stick to donor trucks from '96-up for a replacement door. It will be an easier swap for a number of reasons.

Richard

lmao, yeah that door is done. I should have looked at the pictures better.

 

[stutaeng]

Is that door striker only welded to the sheetmetal or how is it attached? My truck has sagging hinges and I have to slam the door really hard to get to close correctly. The other day I had to tighten up the star shaped striker. I'm afraid it might deform or break.

I tried to replace the bushings right when I bought the truck and the darn Dorman crap bushings wouldn't fit: a few gentle taps would cause them to break. After 2 sets from the local parts store I had ream out the holes with a drill bit. Of course, the crappy hinges broke the next day anyways. I think I was going to try welding some washers as bushings per @someotherguy , but I'm not really messing with that truck much lately. Luckily I only use it like once a month.

 

[someotherguy]

I don't think I ever said anything about welding up washers as bushings, must have been one of Those Other Guys.

The weld hack on worn hinges I've mentioned is where the small end of the pin goes into the hinge without a bushing. That hole gets egged out and since there's no bushing to replace, even with all new bushings and pins, the door will still sag. Jacking it up at the back to push the slack to the opposite side then putting a small weld to bridge the gap will get you by instead of having to replace the hinges completely.

EDIT - by the way to be clear, you don't want to weld INTO the gap. It would be nearly impossible later to remove the pin if you need to replace bushings again, or replace the door, like if it got wrecked. You want to put a little weld across the pin end to the hinge. That way you can get in there with a grinder and knock it out to remove later if needed. In the past I have probably said to leave the retainer off but looking back it may be wiser to leave the retainer in place to keep any errant weld from going down in the hole where you can't grind it out later.

The striker is essentially a big bolt and there's a nut plate behind it inside the cab. If your door is sagging then each time you slam it you're beating up the striker, cab sheetmetal where it's bolted in, and of course the latch and the door shell area around the latch. Let it go long enough and your cab and door will look like OP's pics.

Richard

 

[someotherguy]

More evidence, from a 1997 K1500 parts truck I had

We go from bad

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To worse

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To just downright nightmarish

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Richard

 

[smdk2500]

More evidence, from a 1997 K1500 parts truck I had


Richard

Hey that looks like the 95 I have sitting taking up space in my back yard.

 

[east302]

Is that door striker only welded to the sheetmetal or how is it attached? My truck has sagging hinges and I have to slam the door really hard to get to close correctly. The other day I had to tighten up the star shaped striker. I'm afraid it might deform or break.

I tried to replace the bushings right when I bought the truck and the darn Dorman crap bushings wouldn't fit: a few gentle taps would cause them to break. After 2 sets from the local parts store I had ream out the holes with a drill bit. Of course, the crappy hinges broke the next day anyways. I think I was going to try welding some washers as bushings per @someotherguy , but I'm not really messing with that truck much lately. Luckily I only use it like once a month.

Adding to someotherguy’s post, the plate that the striker screws into is not captive - it’ll fall down but can be held in place by hand in an extended cab at least by removing the storage bin.

Try pressing the bushings into place with a bolt, nut and washers. Tapping them in with a hammer can/will break them…even the GM ones (and I’m no fan of anything made by dorman at all).