Whys that just curious?
Door hinges
- Thread starter White96k2500
- Start date
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Whys that just curious?
White96k2500
I'm Awesome
It’s not that huge of a job but I’ve never replaced any hinges. You have to drill the welds off and it’s so hot outside.
I could see that and understand. I'm not a welder but sometimes wish I was. My rear doors and the famous suburban barn door and I really want to convert it to a liftglass/tailgate. But I need to chop off the hinges from another one and have a friend of mine weld it. Just is on the "wish list" for my truck
White96k2500
I'm Awesome
Well i can weld and i have a welder but id rather not weld on that. That’s the reason i want to just replace them because replacements are bolt on but somehow you have to get the bolts through and get behind the dash witch is gonna be a pain. I don’t think it’d be too hard but I just don’t wanna get frustrated. I’ll be the one that’ll be driving around with a door because i got pissed lol.
The dash is one thing I dont wanna remove... but I know my time coming one day.. specifically whenever the evaporator goes out.. had the truck for 23yrs and it have 400kplus I know a lot of people who have replaced that. I just keep my fingers crossed..
alpinecrick
I'm Awesome
You probably don't need hinges. Read posts #20 and 21 in this thread:
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/door-sag.49345/
White96k2500
I'm Awesome
I’ve read this thread before, i read it again though lol. When I changed the bushings i tried this but it still didn’t work. Hinges would be a lot of extra work but at least i know the door would shut good for a while.
Unless its been wrecked at some point. I would seriously take a hard look at fixing the hinges you have.
Dont worry about the door to fender alignment. The fender gets adjusted last.
Lokk at the door to b pillar and roof line.
The hinge pin kits at the stores are crap.
The bushings are made from whatever they chucked into the furnace that day and the pins are soft too..
Some of them even use plastic bushings and there is zero chance of them working.
The problem with bolt in replacements on any vehicle is that eventually they will also sag and are a whole lot harder to get at to readjust.
There is a good chance that the holes in the hinge are out of round enough that the bushings have already split or they have been pulled out of round from the weight.
So when you put a new bushing in, the door just pulls it back into the wear part of the hole and splits it.
If you put new bushings in and immediatly can lift up on the door and feel any play in it, that has nothing to do with a bent hinge.
Thats an out of round hole.
If you put new bushings in and didnt get any slop for a few days, thats the door being pulled up or down by riding on the striker and chewing up the bushing as you drive.
The hinges should hold the weight of the door but they have always been a problem on anything GM.
40 acres of door hanging off of a pencil
The striker should only hold it in and out, not up and down.
When you look at the striker, it should only be worn flat on the inside and outside. Not the top and bottom.
This is a real issue because if left untreated riding on the striker will crack and split the sheetmetal in a really not cool rectangular pattern all the way around the striker bolt, which may make it completely pull out of the b pillar and yeet your drunk friend right out the damn door and into the curb in front of a strip bar.
Not saying it will....But it could...
Lots of ways to fix this without cutting the welds.
Ya just have wallered out hinge holes.
Dont worry about the door to fender alignment. The fender gets adjusted last.
Lokk at the door to b pillar and roof line.
The hinge pin kits at the stores are crap.
The bushings are made from whatever they chucked into the furnace that day and the pins are soft too..
Some of them even use plastic bushings and there is zero chance of them working.
The problem with bolt in replacements on any vehicle is that eventually they will also sag and are a whole lot harder to get at to readjust.
There is a good chance that the holes in the hinge are out of round enough that the bushings have already split or they have been pulled out of round from the weight.
So when you put a new bushing in, the door just pulls it back into the wear part of the hole and splits it.
If you put new bushings in and immediatly can lift up on the door and feel any play in it, that has nothing to do with a bent hinge.
Thats an out of round hole.
If you put new bushings in and didnt get any slop for a few days, thats the door being pulled up or down by riding on the striker and chewing up the bushing as you drive.
The hinges should hold the weight of the door but they have always been a problem on anything GM.
40 acres of door hanging off of a pencil
The striker should only hold it in and out, not up and down.
When you look at the striker, it should only be worn flat on the inside and outside. Not the top and bottom.
This is a real issue because if left untreated riding on the striker will crack and split the sheetmetal in a really not cool rectangular pattern all the way around the striker bolt, which may make it completely pull out of the b pillar and yeet your drunk friend right out the damn door and into the curb in front of a strip bar.
Not saying it will....But it could...
Lots of ways to fix this without cutting the welds.
Ya just have wallered out hinge holes.
RawbDidIt
I'm Awesome
Sooo... how do you fix the holes that are out of round without replacing outright?
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