Don’t seem to be getting fuel

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SHC286

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Ok, that first one looks just like what’s on there now. So if it’s the original, this truck has 226K miles on it. The wires look good, but old. I’ll probably go ahead and replace the ignition from top to bottom when I get around to it.
 

alpinecrick

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Ok, that first one looks just like what’s on there now. So if it’s the original, this truck has 226K miles on it. The wires look good, but old. I’ll probably go ahead and replace the ignition from top to bottom when I get around to it.

It's very doubtful that's original. TBI motors can easily go 100k with a cap and rotor, but the Vortec's last 50k-75k.....usually......
 

stutaeng

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My 00 K3500 seems to have the original cap. When I changed the spider injectors I saw it was cracked and immediately thought to replace it. But put it back in there because I was scared I'd start having those symptoms you described.

I had been struggling with my 4.3 not starting under damp/raining conditions for like 2 years. That was so frustrating after changing nearly every ignition component, including several cap and rotors. I lost count how many I replaced. Eventually the engine got pulled because it also had low oil pressure...never figured it out. A kick in the nutts for me, lol.

But the 5.7 always fires up wet or shine!
 
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jaywestfall

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It doesn't throw a code when that happens?

Most likely, but I don't have a scanner. Just don't know enough about them to decide which one would be best for me. It did throw codes for weak cylinders, and more cylinders got weaker over time. That's why my I'm putting a new crate motor in it right now.
 

SHC286

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Looks like rain starts again today. I’ll be continuing to check on it throughout this nastiness and see what happens.
 

SHC286

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Well…
It doesn’t like to start when the weather is wet. If I do get it started, it starts again just fine after it’s been warmed up. Like if I go to the store for smokes and shut it off, then it fires right up again.

Of course it starts just fine when the weather is drier.

We had a heavy rain this morning. Just a few minutes ago I went to run some trash to the dump and it struggled to start, then stuttered just a little bit for several seconds.

The distributor cap is a light gray color, same color as the factory original and ACDelco replacements.

The previous owner (low down lying dirty sob Pentecostal youth minister) told me “it’s probably due for a tune up” when I bought it.
Betcha money he never did a tune up. Already found out he’d been towing a tractor with the “brand new” transmission that my mechanic said was most likely brand new from the scrap yard when he had to put my Jasper tranny in.

Hey, it’s coming along. I knew it’d be a money pit when I got it.
 

SHC286

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This thread seems dead but I’ll update y’all anyway.

Ordered a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Taking the old stuff off, the old plug wires literally fell apart in my hands. That made it a real *****, I had to find my angled needle nose pliers and work the old ends of little by little and piece by piece so I could get the spark plug socket on the old plugs. The electrodes on the plugs looked like total ****, the contacts in the cap and the rotor were were corroded and dark gray, white speckles inside the cap that kinda looked like evidence of condensation to me. After seeing all that, I was surprised it ran at all.

Changed all that out. Alpinecrick, I got the cap you mentioned you’re thinking of trying. Obviously I have no idea yet about longevity or long term performance yet. I’ve only put 3K miles on the truck in almost a year, so it’ll probably be several years before I have a long term opinion.

On a good day, my truck would turn over 2-3 times before starting. Once I turned the key after swapping everything out, it seemed like the starter barely engaged before it fired off and started rumbling at me.
 

TacosnBeer

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Did you adjust the TPS to get the right voltages at idle and WOT? that matters.. if the idle one is off, it wont start.
 
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