96 K1500 Burb seems to not be getting fuel. Cranks but wont start. Need advice please

[8thNote]

Could be like @Pinger suggested, that the pigtails are messed up on the pump harness. You may be able to get it out without dropping the tank. We could not on our job, couldn't even see them till the tank was partway down. The original harness turned out to be okay, we just had to cut the old connection off and splice the new one in.
I had looked at everything besides the pump, hoping it wouldn't be that. But it was.

On mine you can access the pump harness pigtail (its got 287k miles, so someone has dropped the tank before). Its right there on the front side of the tank when you look up. I'm 99.9% sure the pump is bad.

I plan on doing the fuel pump access door with a Sawzall mod. That rear carpet is nasty and needs to come out any way.

 

[Pinger]

After the testing that's been done, there's only the short length of wires from the connector to the pump or the pump left as possible culprits. Got to say, choosing between two 10'' long wires and the pump - I'd have to suspect the pump.

 

[Schurkey]

I plan on doing the fuel pump access door with a Sawzall mod. That rear carpet is nasty and needs to come out any way.

HELL, NO!

Do NOT cut an opening from the passenger compartment to the fuel tank, unless you want fuel to be able to access the passenger compartment, causing fires and sizzling people in a rollover collision that ruptures the gas tank.

IF you end up upside-down with a leaking tank, you'll have seconds to get yourself and your family out of their seatbelts and the hell out of the vehicle, and some of you may be knocked silly or outright unconsious in the rollover. And then, maybe some of the doors don't open properly any more.

Nobody wants to die screaming.

 

[Caman96]

After the testing that's been done, there's only the short length of wires from the connector to the pump or the pump left as possible culprits. Got to say, choosing between two 10'' long wires and the pump - I'd have to suspect the pump.

HELL, NO!

Do NOT cut an opening from the passenger compartment to the fuel tank, unless you want fuel to be able to access the passenger compartment, causing fires and sizzling people in a rollover collision that ruptures the gas tank.

IF you end up upside-down with a leaking tank, you'll have seconds to get yourself and your family out of their seatbelts and the hell out of the vehicle, and some of you may be knocked silly or outright unconsious in the rollover. And then, maybe some of the doors don't open properly any more.

Nobody wants to die screaming.

That was one of @Schurkey milder descriptions of that scenario. But, remember OP, even his worst description would be mild compared to the reality of that situation!

 

[8thNote]

HELL, NO!

Do NOT cut an opening from the passenger compartment to the fuel tank, unless you want fuel to be able to access the passenger compartment, causing fires and sizzling people in a rollover collision that ruptures the gas tank.

IF you end up upside-down with a leaking tank, you'll have seconds to get yourself and your family out of their seatbelts and the hell out of the vehicle, and some of you may be knocked silly or outright unconsious in the rollover. And then, maybe some of the doors don't open properly any more.

Nobody wants to die screaming.

I'm not doubting the wisdom of your response, but there are many many modern cars that have fuel pump access panels under the rear seat from OEM (Honda, Hyundai, VW come to mind)

 

[Caman96]

I'm not doubting the wisdom of your response, but there are many many modern cars that have fuel pump access panels under the rear seat from OEM (Honda, Hyundai, VW come to mind)

That’s true, but your truck isn’t modern and doesn’t have a factory setup for this. For all the hassle of making a factory access door, imo, dropping tank and replacing with a quality pump and hanger is the better way.

 

[Schurkey]

I'm not doubting the wisdom of your response, but there are many many modern cars that have fuel pump access panels under the rear seat from OEM (Honda, Hyundai, VW come to mind)

Engineered. Reinforced. Sealed.

Designed AND CRASH-TESTED by professionals, to not distort and bleed fuel into the passenger compartment in a typical collision.

As opposed to the Sawsall method.

 

[8thNote]

That’s true, but your truck isn’t modern and doesn’t have a factory setup for this. For all the hassle of making a factory access door, imo, dropping tank and replacing with a quality pump and hanger is the better way.

Engineered. Reinforced. Sealed.

Designed AND CRASH-TESTED by professionals, to not distort and bleed fuel into the passenger compartment in a typical collision.

As opposed to the Sawsall method.

My main concern was that I had just filled up right before this happened, and the Burb has a 42 gallon tank. Where am I going to put 40 gallons (over 300 lbs) of gasoline before dropping the tank? I guess I'll be going back to harbor freight to buy out their bucket stock.

 

[Caman96]

I had just filled up right before this happened

Isn’t that always the case? Recently happened to me with freshly filled 34 gl. tank. On truck though, so I removed bed. Maybe pull another car(maybe 2)up beside it and pump into the other.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Isn’t that always the case? Recently happened to me with freshly filled 34 gl. tank. On truck though, so I removed bed. Maybe pull another car(maybe 2)up beside it and pump into the other.

Yup that's what happened with the Burb. Just filled it on Wednesday, drove Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, Sunday go to move it and nope. Nada. Bupkis.......