Decided to build a garage. Now the fun begins.

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South VA

K2500 454 Long Roof
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Buy a couple packs of these lights and use them liberally. I have one light for every 10x10' section in my shop, and I'd readily put in more. Then again, I have a 30x40x12' shop, so even with the white interior walls it takes a lot of light.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GVT34DY/
That’s a pretty reasonable price for the 12-pack. If I’m not mistaken, 12 would be a good minimum for this 1200 sf garage. Maybe combined with some corncob LEDs.

I’m not yet sure how best to attach the lights, as the interior of the roof slopes upward to the ridge.

If you plan on doing any welding or media blasting, get one of these fans and stick it in the wall. This one's powerful enough to cycle all the air in my shop in under 3 minutes. I have mine on a manual switch, but I might add in a thermostat and humidistat. My wife's shop is better insulated and has high humidity problems, so she has the thermostat and humidistat and it really helped.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8I7HQW/
www.amazon.com/Generic-Replacement-Power-Vent-Thermostat/dp/B0026KSOIM/
www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-Manually-Adjustable-Humidistat-for-Power-Vents-H1/100023416
That is a great idea. How high off the floor did you mount your fan?

I’m definitely thinking some sort of media blasting cabinet would be very handy. That, and a recirculating solvent bath.
I put 4x outlets with GFCI on every 10' section of wall, and each wall also has a 220v NEMA60 plug. It's all conduited. If you're going to be banging stuff around in the shop, invest in conduit.
+1 on the outlets.
I was debating whether to use conduit or armored romex. The two metal garages I’ve looked at used armored romex, but what you’re saying makes sense. I’m planning on doing most of the wiring myself, and having an electrician check my work, but I’ve not done conduit before. I’d imagine it’s a little like plumbing, which I have done a bit of. So if I’m providing most of the labor, conduit seems like the way to go.

I’m also seriously considering learning how to weld at some point, so having the 220v outlets in place makes sense.
As of right now it's all still run off an extension cord to the house. The local electrical contractors want $5k-10k to run the wiring to the service on my wife's shop.

I’m waiting to see what the local electrical coop is going to charge me to run power and a new meter base to the shop, since tapping off of the house power isn’t practical for us. Once power is extended to the building, I can probably install the 200A panel myself, as I’ve done it a couple of times before. At least I think so; I’ve not done such a thing in a metal building.
 

South VA

K2500 454 Long Roof
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The tree crew showed up today, and got right to it.
Here’s the site before. The two pines to the right are over 90’ tall. We didn’t realize they were that tall. But they have to come out. So does the crepe myrtle just to the right of the cedar tree; it’s roughly the left hand edge of the building to be.
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The tree crew has been to the farm on two other occasions. They are well-equipped, very competent, and charge reasonable rates.

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They had a 100’ crane, an equally large bucket truck, and a large truck towing a wood chipper. Plus a dump truck.

It was truly a pleasure to see them work.
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It appears that we’ll be able to get at least some money for the 14’ or so logs that cutting the two pines will generate. They laid them down in the adjacent goat pasture, and another company will come in with a portable sawmill to turn them into lumber.

Speaking of goats:
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My GF has a herd of 25 or so myotonic goats, aka “Fainting Goats.” They don’t actually faint; but when startled, their leg muscles lock up and they sometimes tip over. That trait leads to all sorts of farm comedy.

Hers is a registered herd. She raises them to sell for pets and as breeding stock. Rarely are they sold at market for goatburgers or the equivalent.

And I have to say that having never been around goats, I have been pleased to discover what truly interesting critters they are. I like them, a lot. They are also low maintenance, as there is enough pasture here to support them without supplemental feeding. I have been promoted to Goat Wrangler, the duties of which include giving shots when needed, helping to hold the more stubborn ones for worming, and helping to move them in and out of pens during breeding season.

March and April are kidding season, which makes the whole endeavour all that more worthwhile. I believe that there is nothing cuter than a baby goat.

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df2x4

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I believe that there is nothing cuter than a baby goat.

They are cute little guys/gals. I have an aunt and uncle who have raised goats for quite a while now. When I went out and visited my cousins as a kid we would always go play with the babies. It was really funny to watch them play "king of the hill" on whatever high ground happened to be available.
 

termite

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I've wanted a garage since before we bought our place in 2015. Still working in the dirt and gravel. I'm definitely following along here, and elsewhere for ideas when the time is right for me to build one.
 

South VA

K2500 454 Long Roof
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The trees are gone.

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This completes the first major hurdle in prepping the site. Next, after removing the remaining bits of the old goat pen, is getting the stumps and roots removed so that the resulting holes can be filled with gravel. Then the site can be leveled for concrete.

My preferred concrete guy can do all of that, assuming he gets the job. I still haven’t heard back from him though, and am getting a bit concerned. I’ll call him today and ask him when I can expect a bid.

As mentioned previously, I have another contractor lined up to look at the site today or tomorrow. Unfortunately, he doesn’t do stump removal, so I’ll have to get separate bids for that as well.

I‘m hoping my preferred guy will come through; but I have a Plan B, just in case.

In other news, I still have to fill out and file the appropriate permit application for the building. It appears that the side and rear yard setbacks may be an issue. The building as planned is 10’ from the side and rear property lines; the required setbacks are 35’. Fortunately, the adjacent parcel is under the same ownership, so if absolutely necessary a boundary line adjustment between the two would fix the problem. A bit of a pain, but doable. We’ll see.
 

South VA

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Near the top on my list of wants for this garage is a proper lift. To be sure, just having sheltered workspace on a smooth concrete floor will be a true game changer for me, and for which I will be grateful.

But a lift would be the pièce de résistance.

I’m not sure when I’ll be able to actually install a lift, but the garage floor and door spacing need to be designed to accommodate whichever type I choose. So that decision needs to be made fairly soon.

I considered the three basic designs to choose from - two post, four post, and scissors - and excluded the last, as it doesn’t get the vehicle to a decent working height.

I’ve also given thought to a pit, thanks to a suggestion by @Carlaisle; but also had to exclude that from consideration, primarily due to the high water table here. There are some other factors that make a lift a better solution for this application, but a pit was definitely worth considering.

The remaining choice, then, is between a two post and a four post lift.

Since early in the planning phase I’ve assumed that I’d eventually install a two post lift. The main reasons are that it allows easy access to wheels and suspension components; allows access to nearly the entire underside of the vehicle; has a smaller footprint than a four post lift; and is somewhat less expensive.

However, realizing that I didn’t know much about four post lifts, I decided to learn more about them so that I can make a truly informed choice. Thanks to youtube and other sources on the interwebs, I’ve been able to sample a decent variety of information and opinions on the subject.

As a result I’ve learned some things.

For example, I hadn’t realized that a four post lift can be configured, by adding a trolley jack, to lift the front or rear of the vehicle sufficiently above the lift ramps to allow wheel and suspension work. This one modification is expensive, but pretty much eliminates a main limitation of a four post lift.

A four post lift, while not idiot-proof, is inherently more stable and therefore safer (which I sort of knew). This would seem particularly important with the largest of the vehicles that will go on this lift: my K2500 7.4l Suburban.

What really surprised me is that a four post lift doesn’t necessarily have to be bolted down at all. What’s more, it can actually be moved around within the shop (without a vehicle on it, of course), on casters. This seems like a pretty nice feature, as it would allow experimenting with different placements (fore and aft, side to side) before deciding on its final location. And then maybe bolting it down. Or leaving it moveable.

A four post lift is clearly the better choice for vehicle storage; a second vehicle can be parked beneath the first. However, I don’t envision that being a significant need in our application. If we had a garage queen or two, I could see it. But we don’t, and we’re not likely to.

One key factor in selecting the type of lift is accommodating the variety of other vehicles and equipment in the fleet. It would be quite handy, for example, to be able to put the mowers or the RTV 1100 on the lift for repairs and maintenance. I’m not sure that I’d put the JD 2520 tractor on a lift, but suppose that it would be possible. A two post lift would handle all of these pretty easily; it’s not clear that a four post lift would, particularly the smaller lawn tractor.

A two post lift requires 220v, whereas most four post lifts do not. Since I’m planning on wiring the garage for 220v, that’s not really a factor.

And so forth.

So that’s the selection process I’m working through, which has been both interesting and worthwhile. At this point, I’m still not sure. A four post lift has some advantages that I hadn’t considered. However, I‘m still thinking that a two post lift is the better solution for this garage. Fortunately I don’t need to make that decision for at least another week or two. We’ll see.
 
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bluex

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I've had/used both types of lifts, the 4 post is nice an definitely more stable but for most work a 2 post is better imo. Yes you can outfit a 4 post to lift the vehicle for suspension an brake work but it's still not ideal since the ramp/floor is still in the way. Give alot of thought to the type of work you'll be doing before making the decision. If it's suspension, brake or driveline heavy I'd opt for the 2 post personally. With a couple of tall stands to put under front an rear after you raise the vehicle the 2 post gives alot more access to more parts of the vehicle.
 

BuiltToWork

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I‘m still thinking that a two post lift is the better solution for this garage. Fortunately I don’t need to make that decision for at least another week or two. We’ll see.
There are two ways a two post can be tied together - a bar at the top or a bar at the bottom. I have heard, but not experienced, that the bar at the bottom get in the way for rolling carts. The bar at the top limits the total lift height you can do. Food for thought.
 

BuiltToWork

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Nice shed, btw! Well equipped and well organized. What do you mainly do in there?
Hide from the wife - lol. Sharpen lawnmower blades, do electronic projects with my raspberry Pi's, and tinker. An hour or two of tinkering is like meditation. I work on my truck in the big shed - but no power out there yet.
 

Erik the Awful

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for most work a 2 post is better
This, 100%.

Get a single-point release, and make sure the lift is ALI certified. An extended height lift is absolutely worth it if you have the room. I'm partial to Rotary lifts because I like their flip-up pads better than the pedestal pads everyone else uses.
 
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