Custom made shop tools

[east302]

In the process of pressing on new bearings, also have to put new clutches in the limited slip. All told will have probably $500 in the whole thing including buying the rear.

Hey that works, sounds like a cool project. I didn’t know it was so close that it could interchange with a Mopar.

I did that clutch pack/spider gear job on a Bronco a while back...that friction modifier smell drifted into the house and lingered for days. I could’ve used a roll around setup like yours, that’s for sure. Laying on your back doing that kind of stuff is for the birds.




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[Moparmat2000]

Yep it is a pretty slick swap. The 67-69 barracuda notchback coupe is the lightest and stiffest of all 3 body types produced these years. Dry weight is around 2800 lbs. Put a V8 on an aluminum diet, and use an aluminum radiator, and you can still keep it close to 3,000 lbs curb weight with steel fenders and bumpers. I am seriously looking at modding for electric power steering, and using a unit out of a toyota yaris, and keep an aluminum manual box under the hood.

Heck i even figured out a Dana 457 U joint from a 91 dakota fits the ford yoke, and will mate to the stock mopar drive shaft without modding either one. Picked up a delco brand U joint off rock auto for that. also found a place willing to make me rear parking brake cables with a mopar front to fit the chassis, and ford e brake rear to fit the axle. No way to mount a pinion snubber to the ford axle though so i will just put traction bars on it.

A buddy of mine did the V8 S-10 from a 4 cylinder base model and used an 8.8 in the back. Had to redrill his axles and rotors to run Chevy wheels. These axles are turning out to be a pretty popular swap rear. They are cheap and plentiful. 31 splines, cars are 28 spline, Most came with performance minded ratios, and lockers, almost all of em with disc brakes. Parts are inexpensive. The rotors were bendix brand and $15 each new. and in my case the bolt pattern and stud size was identical to the car.

Found a junkyard in fort worth about 6 months ago when i was there for 2 weeks of training for my job that had so many ford xploders they told me if i pull it, price is $125. I got my second right side axle there for $25 LoL. The stock LSD actually works great up to about 350HP on the street. Once you add sticky slicks and solid track use with hard launches it wont hold up.

And yes that friction modifier oil is some stinky ****. I havent gotten to that part yet, but when my clutch kit came from yukon gear with the additive in the box, i could smell it through the sealed packaging when UPS dropped it off. My shop is in the back yard seperate of the house. I am gonna wear a tyvek disposable apron and some latex gloves when i do that part. Wife will kick me out of bed if my hands are smelling like that ****.

 

[east302]

Did you get the spiders from Yukon as well? Mine came on a cardboard sheet with busted shrink wrap as though it had been opened and returned by someone else. I complained, sent it back and the second one they sent was the exact same way.

They worked fine (it’s hard to tear them up) but it still bugged me for the price I paid.


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[94burbk1500]

Yep it is a pretty slick swap. The 67-69 barracuda notchback coupe is the lightest and stiffest of all 3 body types produced these years. Dry weight is around 2800 lbs. Put a V8 on an aluminum diet, and use an aluminum radiator, and you can still keep it close to 3,000 lbs curb weight with steel fenders and bumpers. I am seriously looking at modding for electric power steering, and using a unit out of a toyota yaris, and keep an aluminum manual box under the hood.

Heck i even figured out a Dana 457 U joint from a 91 dakota fits the ford yoke, and will mate to the stock mopar drive shaft without modding either one. Picked up a delco brand U joint off rock auto for that. also found a place willing to make me rear parking brake cables with a mopar front to fit the chassis, and ford e brake rear to fit the axle. No way to mount a pinion snubber to the ford axle though so i will just put traction bars on it.

A buddy of mine did the V8 S-10 from a 4 cylinder base model and used an 8.8 in the back. Had to redrill his axles and rotors to run Chevy wheels. These axles are turning out to be a pretty popular swap rear. They are cheap and plentiful. 31 splines, cars are 28 spline, Most came with performance minded ratios, and lockers, almost all of em with disc brakes. Parts are inexpensive. The rotors were bendix brand and $15 each new. and in my case the bolt pattern and stud size was identical to the car.

Found a junkyard in fort worth about 6 months ago when i was there for 2 weeks of training for my job that had so many ford xploders they told me if i pull it, price is $125. I got my second right side axle there for $25 LoL. The stock LSD actually works great up to about 350HP on the street. Once you add sticky slicks and solid track use with hard launches it wont hold up.

And yes that friction modifier oil is some stinky ****. I havent gotten to that part yet, but when my clutch kit came from yukon gear with the additive in the box, i could smell it through the sealed packaging when UPS dropped it off. My shop is in the back yard seperate of the house. I am gonna wear a tyvek disposable apron and some latex gloves when i do that part. Wife will kick me out of bed if my hands are smelling like that ****.

The explorer rear end is a really popular swap for the LS swapped s10's. It's what I'm planning on using when i grow big enough balls to swap my s10. That car sounds pretty sweet, you should post up some pics!

 

[Moparmat2000]

Car was/is a half stripped ex drag car. Needs everything. We are collecting up all the parts to redo it at this point in time. Figured i'd mod the axle and get it ready.

Do you shorten them for S-10 use or run em stock width? Shortening the long end is pretty straight forward. I have eome more home made tools for that too.

 

[94burbk1500]

Car was/is a half stripped ex drag car. Needs everything. We are collecting up all the parts to redo it at this point in time. Figured i'd mod the axle and get it ready.

Do you shorten them for S-10 use or run em stock width? Shortening the long end is pretty straight forward. I have eome more home mafe tools for that too.

I'm fairly certain they have to be shortened a little bit on one side since the S10 has equal length axles and a slightly skinnier track width. I'll be farming that out to a shop as my welds look like they were done by Michael j Fox.

 

[Moparmat2000]

You might be able to do all the prep work, then have it welded up by somebody. I'm headed back to work. On lunch now, but i can post pix, or send pix on how to do it. Its really easy.

 

[Moparmat2000]

Btw

Did you get the spiders from Yukon as well? Mine came on a cardboard sheet with busted shrink wrap as though it had been opened and returned by someone else. I complained, sent it back and the second one they sent was the exact same way.

They worked fine (it’s hard to tear them up) but it still bugged me for the price I paid.


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i didnt get spiders, just clutches, cross pin bolt, friction modifier, and a new spring. Everything was yukon but from different ebay sellers.

 

[Moparmat2000]

Hardest part is surgically removing all the effing xploder axle brackets without dicking up the axle tube. That took a lot of time. You will need to reuse the ford axle U bolts as the tube is 3&1/8" OD. Just waller out your S-10 shock plate holes a little bit about 1/16" each hole to widen them a little if its original axle is a 3" tube.

If your S-10 shock plates are for an axle smaller than 3" OD, speedway motors sells nice stock car racer shock plates for $19 per side LH or RH for 3" axle tubes, just waller out the holes a little bit. I have to do that with the Mopar shock plates to fit the ford u bolts. No biggie.

 

[Moparmat2000]

More custom tools. Some 15" long 3" C channel for shortening up and welding up a Ford xploder 8.8. I got a good deal on this. It was free at a scrap metal place. Dude even cut it down on a chop saw for me. Scrap metal places buy and sell by the pound, there wasnt enough weight there for them to write up a sales slip lol.

Once you get 4 good solid tacks 90° apart, remove the c channel, and weld up only half of it but 180° apart on opposite sides, let it cool, then weld up the other 180° on the other opposite sides. Do not run a bead all the way around in one shot. Or it can warp. I buzzed in 2 tacks, let it cool, checked straightness, then turned the clamps 90° and buzzed in the other 2 tacks, then removed the clamps.

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