Broken manifold bolts

[Pinger]

i dont want to do one head if i cant do the other and i already installed other one .

There are ways of doing this on an installed head - only the tools vary.
The trick is to insert rope through the spark plug hole then bring the piston to TDC (or as close as it will go). This stops the valve from dropping. Then you use a hammer type tool or, improvise something (open ended spanner (wrench?) and pivot) to push down on the spring cap to release the collets. Reverse the process to refit.
There's videos on YouTube that cover this - including the (hammer) tool.

 

[Schurkey]

1. There is no such thing as "Grade 10" bolt in the SAE system.

2. Metric bolts might be marked with a 10.x; but they're approximately equivalent to Grade 8 SAE for strength.

3. USE ANTISEIZE on the bolts going in, and reduce the specified torque by ~20%

4 If the bolts are too long, add washers or cut them shorter or VERIFY that the hole is threaded far enough to accept the full length.

 

[dakotabman]

i checked rock auto no luck. i geuss i will try what schurkey advised and check to see if the head will accept the longer bolt or possibly cut them. but i still have a issue with the two studs for the alternater bracket. its pretty wild to me nobody sells these bolts as a kit for one of the most popular vehichles ever made. thanks everyone for the feedback. i learn a little bit each time.

 

[Schurkey]

what about the two studs on the drivers side for the alternater bracket?

i still have a issue with the two studs for the alternater bracket.

1. Photos? Nicely sized, IN FOCUS, and cropped, please.
2. GM dealership parts department?
3. Treasure Yard?

its pretty wild to me nobody sells these bolts as a kit for one of the most popular vehichles ever made.

There's lots of bolt kits. Most of them have extra pieces, or aren't correct for the application; or they tell you that if you don't have the right parts, to contact them and maybe they'll send some of the right length. That way you get what you need...in a month.

Bolt kits are not all they're cracked-up to be. I've even had to get different-sized replacements from ARP, and they're probably the best in the business. Don't get me started on eBay "Bolt Locker" junk.[/QUOTE]

 

[Erik the Awful]

I'm not a fan of hardened bolts on the exhaust. If it snaps off you're taking the head off and delivering it to the machine shop. Back when I was a beginning mechanic, I had to drill out a hardened bolt that some idiot stuck in the exhaust on a small diesel engine. The head had rusted through and broke off. By the time I was done the bolt was still there, there was a nicely tapped hole parallel to the broken bolt, and the exhaust manifold bolt hole was widened. I didn't like the repair, but it was fleet maintenance and it ran, so "Send it!"

 

[Pinger]

I'm not a fan of hardened bolts on the exhaust. If it snaps off you're taking the head off and delivering it to the machine shop. Back when I was a beginning mechanic, I had to drill out a hardened bolt that some idiot stuck in the exhaust on a small diesel engine. The head had rusted through and broke off. By the time I was done the bolt was still there, there was a nicely tapped hole parallel to the broken bolt, and the exhaust manifold bolt hole was widened. I didn't like the repair, but it was fleet maintenance and it ran, so "Send it!"

Doesn't seem right to me either. A bit more elasticity given the heat and expansion/contraction of the manifold seems more desirable.
I can envisage where a hard bolt doesn't yield with an expanding manifold and crushes the gasket which never quite recovers.

 

[dakotabman]

I'm not a fan of hardened bolts on the exhaust. If it snaps off you're taking the head off and delivering it to the machine shop. Back when I was a beginning mechanic, I had to drill out a hardened bolt that some idiot stuck in the exhaust on a small diesel engine. The head had rusted through and broke off. By the time I was done the bolt was still there, there was a nicely tapped hole parallel to the broken bolt, and the exhaust manifold bolt hole was widened. I didn't like the repair, but it was fleet maintenance and it ran, so "Send it!"

haha funny you say that. thats exactly what i just had to do. now im trying to get it back together. the problem im having is that the exhaust manifold bolts are 3/8 16 x 2 1/4. iv been to the auto parts stores the all sell 2 1/2 bolts as replacements. i tried that didnt work. and there is quit a bit of space there for washers to fill so i dont like that. all the hardware stores sell 2" and 2 1/2" bolts, the always skip the 2 1/4" bolts. so now im debating using the 2" but then it will only have about 4 threads into the head and i dont like that either!

 

[Pinger]

haha funny you say that. thats exactly what i just had to do. now im trying to get it back together. the problem im having is that the exhaust manifold bolts are 3/8 16 x 2 1/4. iv been to the auto parts stores the all sell 2 1/2 bolts as replacements. i tried that didnt work. and there is quit a bit of space there for washers to fill so i dont like that. all the hardware stores sell 2" and 2 1/2" bolts, the always skip the 2 1/4" bolts. so now im debating using the 2" but then it will only have about 4 threads into the head and i dont like that either!

Buy the 2 1/2'' and cut 1/4'' of the ends. Just screw a nut on before cutting to clean the thread.

 

[RichLo]

^ x2

or thread on a die before cutting

 

[dakotabman]

okay guys. after much searching on the ole google machine. i called local gm dealer and got the part number for the bolts then looked them up online. the dealer wants 4.25 a peice! plus they can only give you the bolts not the studs because they are discontinued. so these are what you need fellas just in case anyone has the same problem. all the popular auto store with show bolts that are too long for replacement. so hopfully this helps someone out in the future.

this is for driver side. passenger just need the bolts no studs.

Dorman Exhaust Manifold Mounting Hardware 03401

GM (9442012)