Broken manifold bolts

[Pinger]

When no welder is available and there is just enough of the bolt protruding - remove the chuck from a drill, clamp it to the protruding stud as tight as possible then with the chuck key in normal ways, use it for leverage. Doesn't always work but the day it does you'll appreciate having read this!

 

[stutaeng]

I have a Hobart Ironman 210 240V welder that runs MIG and Fluxcore process. If at all possible, use the fluxcore wire. It gets way deeper penetration than the MIG. MIG looks really pretty but when I've put stuff in the vise and cranked on it, the weld itself broke. I avoid MIG at all possible, unless I'm doing something like decorative stuff.

I also have 2 stick welders, and you can almost be certain the weld gets proper fusion, unless you use E6013 electrode. E6013 electrode and MIG are more suitable for like sheetmetal.

I was skeptical about welding a nut to a broken bolt, then one day I had to do it and it worked! Preheating helps. In your case, just run the engine for a few minutes, LOL. If you try the 120V welder, for sure preheat by running the engine. But if you don't know how to weld, get a buddy to do it or take it to a shop.

Good luck

 

[RichLo]

I've made my own 220V outlet by running 2 extension cords to 2 different outlets whose circuit breakers were on different sides of the breaker box. Then I wired the hot and ground wires of each to my 220V outlet. I did this just to try out a shaper's (for making molding) power feed and main motors. I wouldn't suggest doing this as a permanent solution.

Yea, I was going to offer a suggestion like that if the OP didnt have the ability to do it the right way, lol. In a pinch that works but for a little extra time and money you could have a proper plug and breaker.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

It gets way deeper penetration than the MIG.

That also depends on what alloy you're using. With this old machine cranked up, and 0.035" ER70S wire, I can get plenty of penetration. The "70" in the number is tensile strength which in this case is 70,000 PSI (same as 7018 rod). Only issue is, the welder draws ~37AMP @220V when welding so, my little trick with 2 outlets won't work, LOL.

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[stutaeng]

That also depends on what alloy you're using. With this old machine cranked up, and 0.035" ER70S wire, I can get plenty of penetration. The "70" in the number is tensile strength which in this case is 70,000 PSI (same as 7018 rod). Only issue is, the welder draws ~37AMP @220V when welding so, my little trick with 2 outlets won't work, LOL.

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We'll that's a beast, LOL.

However, on an amp-to-amp basis, FCAW burns hotter than GMAW...Not saying GMAW (aka "MIG") won't work, just that you have to run higher amperage to get there. The little 120V MIG machines just can't draw enough juice to get good fusion on anything but light gauge stuff.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

The little 120V MIG machines just can't draw enough juice to get good fusion on anything but light gauge stuff.

Amen to that! Plus to get any penetration, you've just lost your duty cycle.

 

[bowtie-72]

I don’t have a welder, but I have a small oxygen acetylene torch set. Anytime I have a bolt that I can get my vice grips on I just heat up around it until it’s red, snap my vice grips on it and walk it out. Once you get it going, don’t worry about it cooling off. Works every time!

 

[dakotabman]

well ****, i tried for several hours today with no luck. drilled it out quite far but nothing could catch on it good enough to turn it. looks like im screwed for a bit. i could get welder but only a 120 which everyone has decided that it wont work unless you have 220. and wiring up a whole new 220 just for this isnt really a option for me.. also have to access to oxy acetylene so im kinda in limbo thinking of what to do at this point. thanks for all the tips and pointer everyone.

 

[bowtie-72]

From the original pics. it looks like you have enough sticking out to get a bite on with a pair of vice grips. Does anyone you know or work with have a little torch? Even those little butane ones will work. It takes a little longer, but you can still heat it up enough. That’s what I used to use before I got my oxygen/acetylene set. You may be able to rent one at your equipment rental place.

 

[Schurkey]

Who cares about duty cycle on a 120-volt MIG when welding a nut onto a 5/16 or 3/8 stud cannot possibly take more than thirty seconds at a time?

I had a 120-volt MIG for a few years. I was not satisfied with it, and the best thing I ever did to upgrade my welding skill was to get a 240-volt machine...but for this, I don't see how it matters. You're not making a pretty weld-bead, you're firing wire into a single spot, which would concentrate the heat available.

But if you've already started drilling, I don't think you have much choice but to drill all the way down, and pull out the bolt threads. Clean up the threads in the head, if they're in good condition. If not...drill oversize, and helicoil.

Based on the external rust on that head, I bet you're going to drill those studs to the bottom and helicoil.

For the record, just today I had to weld bolts onto a broken stub of a bolt, to unthread the broken piece from a Ford steering box. My buddy was driving along, and suddenly the steering wheel "just spun". I'd warned him that only two of the three bolts were still holding the box to the frame, but he "needed the truck" and didn't seem to care that the steering wheel was a half-turn away from level.

One broken bolt spun right out with a vice-grip and harsh language. One broken bolt had to be drilled, it was totally seized in the iron steering gear. And the third got a series of bolts welded to it, and progressively backed-out. My initial mistake was using 5/16 bolts welded to the 7/16 stub, it would only turn so far before the welded bolt itself broke. Eventually I wised-up and welded a 7/16 bolt to the 7/16 stud, and it backed out with some difficulty. Did a great job of saving two of the three threaded holes, the other will need a nut on the back to properly secure a slightly-longer bolt.