Bizarre ac behavior

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Schurkey

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Drive-plate of the clutch unintentionally welded to the pulley?

I'd poke a small screwdriver between pulley and drive-plate, see if I could separate them. Maybe tap-tap-tap with a hammer--anything to pop the drive-plate free.
 

drdoom1337

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Further inspection. Not seeing much gap if any on the clutch. Drive plate not fused but definitely rubbing.
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Schurkey

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I've never seen an A/C compressor with so little (none!) gap between the drive plate and the pulley. I figured it was fused together, but you're saying they've just got no gap, rubbing but not seized.

I guess you could look in the manual for the proper gap specs, and see if you can pull the drive plate away that amount. I haven't done this in so long I don't remember how.

Given the witness-markings of compressor seal leakage on the front of that compressor, maybe you should just replace the compressor. Your call.
 

someotherguy

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I know you've disconnected the low pressure switch and the relay, but I'd just for grins go ahead and unplug the connector at the clutch. You never know what someone may have rigged in the past. I've seen more than one 1995-up model with a flaky A/C control get the clutch hard-wired onto a toggle switch. Once you've eliminated the possibility of electrical activation, you can assume the clutch air gap is the issue, or it's simply defective.

Richard
 

someotherguy

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I've never seen an A/C compressor with so little (none!) gap between the drive plate and the pulley. I figured it was fused together, but you're saying they've just got no gap, rubbing but not seized.

I guess you could look in the manual for the proper gap specs, and see if you can pull the drive plate away that amount. I haven't done this in so long I don't remember how.

Given the witness-markings of compressor seal leakage on the front of that compressor, maybe you should just replace the compressor. Your call.
Spec is like 0.020"-0.030" - takes a puller/installer tool kit somewhat similar to a p/s pump pulley tool, probably can borrow/rent from the auto parts store.

Richard
 

drdoom1337

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I know you've disconnected the low pressure switch and the relay, but I'd just for grins go ahead and unplug the connector at the clutch. You never know what someone may have rigged in the past. I've seen more than one 1995-up model with a flaky A/C control get the clutch hard-wired onto a toggle switch. Once you've eliminated the possibility of electrical activation, you can assume the clutch air gap is the issue, or it's simply defective.

Richard
Tried that too, it can be seen disconnected in the video I've recorded. When I removed the dust cap from the stud you'd add the tool to to adjust the clutch, I noticed moisture inside. Perhaps the clutch is already shot?
 

L31MaxExpress

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Looks like it has a shoddy reman on it. The leak and thus 0 psi is probably the compressor itself if I had to take a guess. It could be other places, but I would look under the bottom of the compressor on the top of the ac bracket for pag oil leaking from the system.
 

drdoom1337

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Here's the dope. Went to the local parts store and rented a puller / installer kit and bought feeler gauges and dye. The instructions in the kit were wrong about which threaded insert fit my compressor, but none the less, I was able to correctly space the compressor clutch gap. The clutch is no longer spinning with the pulley when the AC is off.

I had 1/4 of a r134 can, so I splashed some dye on my recharge tool and turned the AC on full blast. Emptied the entire 1/4 can. Clutch never kicked on, I'm suspecting the compressor is either cooked or the 1/4 can wasn't enough to make it kick on. I do have a full can of r134 that I can try tomorrow, however is there a test way to force the clutch on without utilizing my 11$ can of r134? I've seen some people jump the wiring for the low pressure switch, but I don't remember if that forces the compressor on or off.
 
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