Best way to prep and paint rusty frame.

[Dd1994]

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So I want to rehabilitate my frame. I have been using one of those abrasive disks that go on y0ur drill and it has been working good. I will attach a picture of the side I have done and the side that hasn't been done.

My question is what product should I use once it's all clean to paint and protect it. I live in ontario so it will be subject to tons of salt and snow and I dont want the frame to rust away. Also yes I am aware my parking brake is cut, I have to replace it before I drive the truck.

 

[Ledzep]

Like to know myself. About 6 years ago I used POR 15 and bought all the recommended prep products, did every step and beyond exactly as directions said and is peeling off. Now have to do it again. Obviously not happy with that product.

 

[Hipster]

Like to know myself. About 6 years ago I used POR 15 and bought all the recommended prep products, did every step and beyond exactly as directions said and is peeling off. Now have to do it again. Obviously not happy with that product.

The stuff is bad news. They changed the formula from what it was years ago. Low-voc/Epa regs. The stuff will peel in sheets and some topcoats will wrinkle it.

 

[Dd1994]

The stuff is bad news. They changed the formula from what it was years ago. Low-voc/Epa regs. The stuff will peel in sheets and some topcoats will wrinkle it.

So then what should be used

 

[Hipster]

Disassembly, blasting, and epoxy prime is the best way, but not what's happening here. On rusty metal I use a product called Ospho basically a phosphic acid treatment that turns rust black, Similar products are Sem Rust-Mort and Kleen-Strip Prep and Etch which can be had from the hardware store reasonably. Get as much rust and scale off as you can, load it in spray bottle and go to town. Follow the directions for whichever product because there are some differences are far as whether you let it dry or neutralize with water etc. It's still not a perfect solution but seems to work better then just putting primer on partially rusted metal.

Get those little bolt on brackets and stuff out of the way and clean it up best you can. I use a lot of wire brushes on a drill. Cupped, cone, tapered to get in all the nooks and crannies best you can. Needle scalers work well also if you have compressed air. You just can't get to all of it with the truck together so the rust continues.

 

[454cid]

Blasting and epoxy prime is the best way, but not what's happening here. On rusty metal I use a product called Ospho basically a phosphic acid treatment that turns rust black, Similar products are Sem Rust-Mort and Kleen-Strip Prep and Etch which can be had from the hardware store reasonably. Get as much rust and scale off as you can, load it in spray bottle and ....

Stay upwind. I just about gassed myself doing that last summer. I had a gallon of something... deckwash I think. It was phosphoric acid, and I had it in a weed sprayer. I did the rear frame when I had the bed off to do the fuel pump.

Later I sprayed a DIY oil, wax, and thinner mixture. I had it on hand. I have no idea how long it lasted.

 

[Dd1994]

Disassembly, blasting, and epoxy prime is the best way, but not what's happening here. On rusty metal I use a product called Ospho basically a phosphic acid treatment that turns rust black, Similar products are Sem Rust-Mort and Kleen-Strip Prep and Etch which can be had from the hardware store reasonably. Get as much rust and scale off as you can, load it in spray bottle and go to town. Follow the directions for whichever product because there are some differences are far as whether you let it dry or neutralize with water etc. It's still not a perfect solution but seems to work better then just putting primer on partially rusted metal.

Get those little bolt on brackets and stuff out of the way and clean it up best you can. I use a lot of wire brushes on a drill. Cupped, cone, tapered to get in all the nooks and crannies best you can. Needle scalers work well also if you have compressed air. You just can't get to all of it with the truck together so the rust continues.

If I can slow it down significantly that would be ideal. I know taking the truck apart and sandblasting is best but it's a yukon so taking the body off the frame entirely would be pretty difficult, and I dont have a sandblaster. I will do my best to wire wheel it all, and then use one of the rust converters you suggested. After that should I bedline it or just paint it.

 

[Hipster]

Stay upwind. I just about gassed myself doing that last summer. I had a gallon of something... deckwash I think. It was phosphoric acid, and I had it in a weed sprayer. I did the rear frame when I had the bed off to do the fuel pump.

Later I sprayed a DIY oil, wax, and thinner mixture. I had it on hand. I have no idea how long it lasted.

Yeah, I was getting ready to add to my post. A pair of rubber gloves, A pair of goggles, and a disposable paint respirator

 

[Hipster]

If I can slow it down significantly that would be ideal. I know taking the truck apart and sandblasting is best but it's a yukon so taking the body off the frame entirely would be pretty difficult, and I dont have a sandblaster. I will do my best to wire wheel it all, and then use one of the rust converters you suggested. After that should I bedline it or just paint it.

I like the acid wash in a spray bottle deal it doesn't get all over like paint and you can sneek under there and get some on the insides of the rails etc. Maybe it helps.

I've never did a truck frame with bed liner but I have done the bottom of floor pans on cars with bed liner in stead of undercoating. Actually looks pretty nice and seems to hold decently.

 

[Hipster]

Double post


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