I have the rust removal attachment for the drill and I just got a knotted wire wheel and regular wire wheel kit for my grinder, hopefully that will get it to a state where it's good enough to use the converter. The pictures I posted that was partially cleaned is after the rust remover attachment. I might also use a dremel with wire wheels to get in the crevices.
Best way to prep and paint rusty frame.
- Thread starter Dd1994
- Start date
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Hipster
I'm Awesome
Since you want to get stuck on stupid dissecting what I say I'll break it down .
Yeah, I saw the frame. Did you see my post where I mentioned sandblasting and epoxy?
Yeah, when you get done with an area spray some "here" and when you get done with the next spray some "there" until you get all the way around it. It's not a difficult concept. You shouldn't leave it bare to flash rust while you work around the entire thing. I already mentioned respirators and so does the directions on the bottle which I said to read. A $15 Niosh N95 rated mask would be more then sufficient for a non catalyzed product. Also I am not talking about a garden sprayer where your going to be having mist creeping up your pant leg or shirt sleeve, or any other type of pressurized equipment. If you can't effectively handle a $2 spray bottle or left over jug from some bathroom cleaner without getting yourself covered up in the product I'm not sure what to tell you.
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DerekTheGreat
Forum Regular
Whatever you do, don't paint it. Hose it down with Krown T40 or Fluid Film. Project Farm and several others like South Main Auto have videos showing the application process and how it works. Paint and such is only as good as cleaning & pretreatment process done beneath it. Not to mention paint & rubberized coatings trap moisture, accelerating the rot. I work in the anti corrosion industry, nothing is better than oil or wax at protecting against corrosion in the long term.
So you can paint it if you want, but don't waste a bunch of money on bedliner paint or any of that other rubberized BS. If you want it black, use self etch primer on it after you've cleared the rust away manually and CLEANED the metal with IPA or naptha wiping. Then paint over that with paint which isn't epoxy based as epoxy is very susceptible to UV damage. Ever see people who slap aftermarket fenders & such on their car and then wonder why it has chalked white and began to rust although it started life black? That's the ecoat chalking and flaking off after being exposed to UV. That is exactly why early 90's GM paint flakes off- they skimped on primer sealer which helped reduce UV transmission to the ecoat...
Whatever route you go, I'd hose it with Krown T40 or Fluid Film like mentioned earlier. Krown is a wax/oil based substance which is much safer on rubber components than straight used motor/gear oil or whatever cocktail farmers like to use. Fluid Film is lanolin type wax. I've started to use both, Fluid Film might be superior but around me all we have are service centers which apply Krown.
Take it from me, I've had my Town Car treated with Krown and all of our other vehicles which see salt. My '89 was semi crusty to begin with and it bonded to and turned the rust black. Just had it done again and touched it up myself with Krown and Fluid Film. Same with Ashley's new to her '92 C1500. I also spray Krown/FF in electrical connectors along with dielectric grease to protect them. No issues. I drive my 30 year old "crap" daily. The Townie was mint when I got it and still mint today. I have yet to see one cleaner underneath and get compliments when I take it to Lincoln meet ups. Now, it only saw three winters before returning to garage queen status but three winters with my brand new (at the time) Chevrolet Colorado was enough to make rusty crusties at the welds and other areas on that truck's frame. I can post pics of the truck and Townie if desired.
So you can paint it if you want, but don't waste a bunch of money on bedliner paint or any of that other rubberized BS. If you want it black, use self etch primer on it after you've cleared the rust away manually and CLEANED the metal with IPA or naptha wiping. Then paint over that with paint which isn't epoxy based as epoxy is very susceptible to UV damage. Ever see people who slap aftermarket fenders & such on their car and then wonder why it has chalked white and began to rust although it started life black? That's the ecoat chalking and flaking off after being exposed to UV. That is exactly why early 90's GM paint flakes off- they skimped on primer sealer which helped reduce UV transmission to the ecoat...
Whatever route you go, I'd hose it with Krown T40 or Fluid Film like mentioned earlier. Krown is a wax/oil based substance which is much safer on rubber components than straight used motor/gear oil or whatever cocktail farmers like to use. Fluid Film is lanolin type wax. I've started to use both, Fluid Film might be superior but around me all we have are service centers which apply Krown.
Take it from me, I've had my Town Car treated with Krown and all of our other vehicles which see salt. My '89 was semi crusty to begin with and it bonded to and turned the rust black. Just had it done again and touched it up myself with Krown and Fluid Film. Same with Ashley's new to her '92 C1500. I also spray Krown/FF in electrical connectors along with dielectric grease to protect them. No issues. I drive my 30 year old "crap" daily. The Townie was mint when I got it and still mint today. I have yet to see one cleaner underneath and get compliments when I take it to Lincoln meet ups. Now, it only saw three winters before returning to garage queen status but three winters with my brand new (at the time) Chevrolet Colorado was enough to make rusty crusties at the welds and other areas on that truck's frame. I can post pics of the truck and Townie if desired.
454cid
Sooper Pooper
Lol, I was thinking too bad Crown wasn't available here... completely not thinking that he's in Canada. He can probably buy it at every corner store.
Crown and Waxoyl were the inspiration for the concoction I made. It was turpentine, beeswax, and 30wt motor oil.... I love the smell of the turpentine.
Thanks for the advice I'll spray it with krown after painting, I have some bedliner on spray cans sitting around anyways that's why I figured I'd give it a try. How often do you spray it down. And man I had a 93 town car they are beauties, like driving your living room.
Hipster
I'm Awesome
I have never used them but people that do swear by those 2 types of products. How thin is this stuff. I'm curious if it would it creep into a pinch weld? I usually use cavity wax on repairs but it's another product that I question if it's really all that effective.
DerekTheGreat
Forum Regular
Krown T40 is pretty thin, think slightly more viscous than WD40 or PB blaster. Their literature states the creep action of their product is what gives it an edge; that it will creep into pinch welds and travel up & such. That is also why I tend to have it done this time of year each year, so that it's hot and the stuff flows. It goes on looking wet but then after a few weeks it begins to dry out into a low gloss wax-like appearance. Same type of deal with Fluid film, although that stuff is much thicker, especially if you don't allow about 6" or more between the nozzle and part you're treating. Looks like gobs of wax at that point. Doesn't seem to flow as much as Krown yet when applied from a distance it goes on misty & has a similar appearance. Stinks awful though. I recognize the smell, just can't place it. Kind of like a stinkbug after you step on it. To FF's credit, it says it contains no silicones so it shouldn't be too much of an ass in regards to painting.
No, just say no! Return that bedliner spray crap. If you're going to paint it, I strongly suggest you do as I advised- clean with naptha/IPA, Etch prime followed with acrylic enamel black, anything NON epoxy. You'll be much happier you did in the long run, especially if you intend to spray everything underneath. Ever try getting into an electrical connector after it's been lobbed with that stuff? How about trying to get bolts off?
Stuff has to be applied once a year, seems to like going on stuff that's slightly rusty.
They are great cars. Much better than what Cadillac offered through 1982-1989, arguably 1990-1992 as well. Can't believe Cadillac expected people to suffer through with a carb'd Oldsmobile engine while Ford offered smooth running SEFI. Not to mention Ford gave you the option of one of the best factory installed audio systems around at the time; Ford/JBL. Pretty remarkable, the head unit was a preamp and there was a seperate big ole fat amp in the trunk for the big 6x9's and 5.25" coaxial speakers. Cadillac gave you what, crappy 4x6's and 4x10's? If a dude wanted a Brougham, I'd say 1990-1992 with the LO5 and CD player option. Only way I'd own one, although I'd convert it to the four eye look. I've never owned one, might consider it though and the LT1 powered Cadillacs that followed later have my eye..
454cid,
There's a place in St. Clair and Kensington which applies Krown now. We just had our trucks done last week at the St. Clair place. Used to go to Santing's OK Tire Store in Windsor but that was a PITA. Border cops always thought Ashley was a drug runner or something, guess they find it hard to believe a pretty brunette would drive an old beat up truck. This saves her much anxiety.
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Ok I guess I'll get some acrylic enamel paint, is that what rustoleum is?
DerekTheGreat
Forum Regular
Most likely, just give the cans a good once over to make sure. They'll state the chemistry somewhere on the can.
Most companies do not recommend color directly over etch primer. Epoxy would be a better product on a frame vs. etch. Epoxy is used in many industrial applications requiring corrosion resistance. Etch is used in collision repair because of it's speed, it is not a substitute for epoxy in all cases.
The Ecoat talked about on fenders is not epoxy it is a different product. Epoxy will not fade for years under a vehicle, I have some I have done at least 25 years ago. Direct sunlight will fade it and break it down.
And the cars peeled because of lack of clear, which is the UV protection. With proper mils of clear no UV gets below.
A catalyzed bedliner applied properly will be better than an acrylic enamel. It will give a little better chip resistance.
I wouldn't use any products that do not have a hardener. The chemical crosslinking the hardener initiates yields a far superior product.
Rustoleum isn't even a consideration
The Ecoat talked about on fenders is not epoxy it is a different product. Epoxy will not fade for years under a vehicle, I have some I have done at least 25 years ago. Direct sunlight will fade it and break it down.
And the cars peeled because of lack of clear, which is the UV protection. With proper mils of clear no UV gets below.
A catalyzed bedliner applied properly will be better than an acrylic enamel. It will give a little better chip resistance.
I wouldn't use any products that do not have a hardener. The chemical crosslinking the hardener initiates yields a far superior product.
Rustoleum isn't even a consideration
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