Best way to keep this used Yukon running like new

[nomad yessir]

I recently bought a '97 Yukon with 268,000 miles on it. After two months of driving, the oil level hasn't changed, the oil on the dipstick is clear, and the truck purrs like a lion, with plenty of torque to spare. I love this truck. But I've never been a mechanic. Also I'm new to this forum. What're some of the best ways you all know of to keep the engine running so smoothly and powerfully for as long as possible?
Thanks!

 

[stutaeng]

Um, that's a good question. I'm sure you'll get some good suggestions here.

I'd say to start change the air filter and inspect the spark plugs (change if they look worn.) Take a look at your distributer/cap. Hopefully, it's been changed with a quality unit.

As far as overall maintenance: change/flush PS fluid, brake fluid. Maybe coolant flush and transmission flush. Maybe you have service information if those have been changed before? Otherwise at least inspect those.

Inspect ALL rubber hoses and the belt. Does that seem reasonable or doable for you?

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Cap and rotor with brass contacts are a definite recommendation, they will last longer and are worth the money. The belt tensioner uses a 3/8" square drive, on the end of a long pry bar ( I have a tool made for this, but if you have a long breakover bar that will work). I also recommend having a few clothes pins or small spring clamps to hold the belt tight to the crankshaft pulley. That will free your hands up to guide the belt around the other pulleys; very handy if you're doing the job by yourself! Hopefully it still has the sticker on the radiator support that shows the belt routing. Take a picture from each side of the engine before you take it apart, then you'll have that to refer to.
These are pretty simple trucks to work on, when you do have to work on them.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Respect the machine. Don't be afraid to occasionally demand full throttle from it, but don't drive it like you stole it.

Stay on top of maintenance. If you don't have the time to do the work, find a good shop and be willing to pay them to do it. I almost exclusively do my own wrenching, but about once a year I end up farming something out to a shop because I just don't have the time to do it.

 

[GoToGuy]

Get that year owners handbook or service manual follow the recommended service maintenance intervals. For those that are mechanically deficient or skill challenged.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Intake gaskets....#1 killer of this style of Vortec engine. I would change them about every 5yrs/50K regardless of the type. I have had both the factory ones and the Felpro problem solver ones fail in ~50K. First failure cost me a 57K mile 1997 350 Vortec back in 2004, totally destroyed the short block by hydraulic locking and startup and destroyed a connecting rod and the block. 2nd failure I caught during a cam swap.

 

[Schurkey]

Best thing a non-mechanic can do to prolong the life of his engine: Buy "Top Tier" fuel. "Top Tier" fuel has added detergent to keep the fuel system and intake valves clean.

"Top Tier" fuel will be advertised at the pump, just like octane rating.

 

[honkon]

Get that year owners handbook or service manual follow the recommended service maintenance intervals. For those that are mechanically deficient or skill challenged.

Best advice in this thread. The maintenance schedule in your owners manual is essentially a "maintenance for dummies." You can't go wrong with that. Keep fresh fluids and filters in the truck and it will serve you well. Pay attention to you dash lights and gauges.

Intake gaskets....#1 killer of this style of Vortec engine. I would change them about every 5yrs/50K regardless of the type. I have had both the factory ones and the Felpro problem solver ones fail in ~50K. First failure cost me a 57K mile 1997 350 Vortec back in 2004, totally destroyed the short block by hydraulic locking and startup and destroyed a connecting rod and the block. 2nd failure I caught during a cam swap.

I wouldn't ever dig that far into an engine to replace a gasket which may or may not be bad. If you regularly check your fluids you should notice a fault before something catastrophic like this.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I wouldn't ever dig that far into an engine to replace a gasket which may or may not be bad. If you regularly check your fluids you should notice a fault before something catastrophic like this.

We always stayed on top of that like a hawk. Checked coolant and oil at every fillup. When it failed it had been sitting parked for 2 weeks. Coolant filled the #2 intake port and hydraulic locked on startup. No prior warning at all. Having had two different designs of that gasket set fail in such a short time period, I consider them normal maintainence now. Gaskets can fail suddenly and the results are almost always catastrophic. Even my 8.1 had gaskets designed the same way. The 8.1 was pulling oil into every intake port, luckily no coolant ports in the intake gaskets.. So make that 3 sets of failed gaskets I have seen on my own stuff. Seen numerous more failures as well. My brother bought a 99 Suburban with spun rod bearings from a failed intake gasket and we caught his S10 before it spun bearings but had coolant already in the oil. 99% of the time you won't catch it in time and it will cost you an engine or at the very least bearings.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I wouldn't ever dig that far into an engine to replace a gasket which may or may not be bad.

I'm normally of the same mind, but my Suburban had been well maintained, and it blew without warning while towing a trailer through a construction zone. It dumped all the coolant and I had to keep rolling another three miles before I could pull over. That was the beginning of the end of my Suburban.