Battery

[1990Z71Swede]

Amp you know the thing for a speaker? subwoofer and obviously if I'm having an electrical problem it would be amperage

I was just about to help you figure it out. Then I read this. Now I don't feel like it anymore....

 

[Feral peasant]

Pretty simple , your stuff wants more juice than your truck makes. Ohms law.

But wouldn't it be consistent then? My friends dad when he has his sound system going it will drop and stay at that level mine goes right back it's just random then returns to normal

 

[Feral peasant]

Are you not having electrical problems? So using an ambiguous term like "amp" instead of "amplifier" or "ampere" would make little sense.

I am but everyone else understands it so what I said wasn't confusing. he gave attitude first. But yes I understand

 

[Drunkcanuk]

I am but everyone else understands it so what I said wasn't confusing. he gave attitude first. But yes I understand

So first off, you have to realize none of us here are mind readers. A few of us understood what you mentioned by amps when you said it, especially with sub tossed in there.
People who don't run aftermarket stereos could have easily missed that and assumed you were talking amps, in the electrical sense.

Ohms law..... Volts x Amps= Watts, if you didn't know.
That's why you were asked what the fuse size is on your amplifier, the "amps" part of ohms law. There is a BIG difference between an amp with a 20A fuse and one with 2-30A fuses.
12V X 20A= 240W
12V X 60A= 720W
And usually we use 14.4V but just for you I did 12V because it's a 12V electrical system.
You can see there is a big difference in the wattage. That power has to come from somewhere, the battery and alternator. But the Voltage has the travel through the wires (pipes), if they are too small to handle the voltage being asked of them, issues can happen, think fire hose vs garden hose.
And then add in the vehicles basic electrical needs, the lights, ignition system,ecu, HVAC etc.
And you have the issue with your blower at full blast full time.

So ya ...you DO have an electrical issue.
But is it a YOU issue, the added stereo, plow setup.
Or is it a TRUCK issue, battery due for replacement, The alternator on its way out. The wiring itself degrades through age, environmental factors, physical damage.

Cool your friends dad has a system that runs right, did he upgrade the vehicle properly for it?

We are trying to help you through this, but you beaking off at the members here who are is not going to end well for you. This is a small tight community that in reality only has a small number of people who post and a smaller number that are willing to help others.
So you need to stay humble, answer the question that are asked of you so we can help you.

 

[AuroraGirl]

So first off, you have to realize none of us here are mind readers. A few of us understood what you mentioned by amps when you said it, especially with sub tossed in there.
People who don't run aftermarket stereos could have easily missed that and assumed you were talking amps, in the electrical sense.

Ohms law..... Volts x Amps= Watts, if you didn't know.
That's why you were asked what the fuse size is on your amplifier, the "amps" part of ohms law. There is a BIG difference between an amp with a 20A fuse and one with 2-30A fuses.
12V X 20A= 240W
12V X 60A= 720W
And usually we use 14.4V but just for you I did 12V because it's a 12V electrical system.
You can see there is a big difference in the wattage. That power has to come from somewhere, the battery and alternator. But the Voltage has the travel through the wires (pipes), if they are too small to handle the voltage being asked of them, issues can happen, think fire hose vs garden hose.
And then add in the vehicles basic electrical needs, the lights, ignition system,ecu, HVAC etc.
And you have the issue with your blower at full blast full time.

So ya ...you DO have an electrical issue.
But is it a YOU issue, the added stereo, plow setup.
Or is it a TRUCK issue, battery due for replacement, The alternator on its way out. The wiring itself degrades through age, environmental factors, physical damage.

Cool your friends dad has a system that runs right, did he upgrade the vehicle properly for it?

We are trying to help you through this, but you beaking off at the members here who are is not going to end well for you. This is a small tight community that in reality only has a small number of people who post and a smaller number that are willing to help others.
So you need to stay humble, answer the question that are asked of you so we can help you.

speak for yourself, I read all minds

now, if im right is another question. we'll just Pin that as a "WIP"

 

[Feral peasant]

So first off, you have to realize none of us here are mind readers. A few of us understood what you mentioned by amps when you said it, especially with sub tossed in there.
People who don't run aftermarket stereos could have easily missed that and assumed you were talking amps, in the electrical sense.

Ohms law..... Volts x Amps= Watts, if you didn't know.
That's why you were asked what the fuse size is on your amplifier, the "amps" part of ohms law. There is a BIG difference between an amp with a 20A fuse and one with 2-30A fuses.
12V X 20A= 240W
12V X 60A= 720W
And usually we use 14.4V but just for you I did 12V because it's a 12V electrical system.
You can see there is a big difference in the wattage. That power has to come from somewhere, the battery and alternator. But the Voltage has the travel through the wires (pipes), if they are too small to handle the voltage being asked of them, issues can happen, think fire hose vs garden hose.
And then add in the vehicles basic electrical needs, the lights, ignition system,ecu, HVAC etc.
And you have the issue with your blower at full blast full time.

So ya ...you DO have an electrical issue.
But is it a YOU issue, the added stereo, plow setup.
Or is it a TRUCK issue, battery due for replacement, The alternator on its way out. The wiring itself degrades through age, environmental factors, physical damage.

Cool your friends dad has a system that runs right, did he upgrade the vehicle properly for it?

We are trying to help you through this, but you beaking off at the members here who are is not going to end well for you. This is a small tight community that in reality only has a small number of people who post and a smaller number that are willing to help others.
So you need to stay humble, answer the question that are asked of you so we can help yo

Yes I know ohms law, I was asking because it's been different lately dipping more, now I was saying about my buddy's dad is that his sits mine does not if it was constant then I wouldn't have a problem I wouldn't even be here but it's not. As I said before he gave attitude first don't don't dish what you can't take, but I'm thinking it might be a battery I've had to recharge it a couple times but not often.

 

[Feral peasant]

How many amps do the id tags on the subwoofer and amplifier drawing?

It says 35 amperage for the amp 34 Amperage for the subwoofer

 

[Alteca]

My voltage used to dip when my sub hit hard, even with dual alternators(305 amps total). I led the problem to being a bad ground. Now the voltage no longer drops at all even with the audio system alone pulling 100+ amps continuous. This is at idle. A bad battery could be an issue, maybe get it tested. But a bad connection is just as likely. Check even the small things like the ground going from the frame to cab near the passenger side of the engine.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

It says 35 amperage for the amp 34 Amperage for the subwoofer

What size is the fuse plugged into the amp?

 

[Feral peasant]

What size is the fuse plugged into the amp?

I don't know where the fuse is if you're talking about in the fuse box it's 15A but if it was drawing more than it should, wouldn't it be sitting lower than half? Because it dips down then goes right back to half