Anyone have a parts number for ext cab long bed aluminum 1 piece drive shaft?

[Moleman]

I'm looking to convert my driveshaft to a 1 piece aluminum one for a 5 speed manual. I haven't had any luck finding one for an extended cab long bed though. If anyone has done this and has a part number for one or just had the orginal 2 piece changed up for a 5 speed. that would be much appreciated.

 

[GoToGuy]

Did try looking up the part numbers on " GMparts Giant .com ".
You will have to enter a fake vehicle probably to get results.
Are you sure the it was available factory? That length would probably be two piece. Ex cab, long bed, loooong shaft.
And those who want one piece are most likely custom driveline shop.
Did you check the factory service manual? If that was available the service manual would probably reference it, service, repair, replace. Just another way to research.

 

[Moleman]

Oh sorry I was looking for a custom made one or an aftermarket one for long bed ext cab. Yeah I think the whole drive shaft is 8 feet long.

 

[RichLo]

Are you just switching from steel to aluminum?

Just wondering because if its bent or something, a driveshaft shop can make you a new one or repair the one you have. If your going for less rotating weight for gas mileage/performance, then there are a lot of other things you can spend money on over buying a new shaft. They are almost identical when it's spinning at highway speeds, both are engineered to be as efficient as possible.

 

[Moleman]

Nah I was looking for a pre cut aluminum driveshaft that matches up to the 32 output for a 5 speed. Then I just wanted to get rid of that carrier bearing too. I seen that they made a precut aluminum 1 pc driveshaft for a crew cab with a utility bed or dump bed or something. But the guy in the video didn't mention a part number for it.

I was going around the local pull aparts. looking for a driveshaft that would match the 5 speed. I didn't see any 5 speed ext cab long beds so I was sol on that.

 

[GoToGuy]

I had or read somewhere that Aluminum shafts were in lighter duty only. Anything like 2500 eight lug , and up were steel shaft. Factory, hmm have to look, be good to know.

 

[RichLo]

Oh ok, your trying to eliminate the carrier bearing, I thought those pics were of your steel 1-piece.

Somebody else here might be able to find you a part number to match but a treasure yard would be your best bet. Or Custom made. Or my vote would be to just rebuild the 2-piece with new U-joints and a carrier bearing then forget about it. Its built last 100k+ worry free miles under heavily abused 1-ton work-truck Dually's.

 

[pressureangle]

There is a reason that driveshafts become two-piece at a certain length. There is a relationship between length, tube diameter, wall thickness and max RPM. At some point, resonant frequencies in normal operations can destroy the shaft. The economic answer is to shorten it and make it 2-piece, otherwise the weight and material costs are too high.

 

[Caman96]

There is a reason that driveshafts become two-piece at a certain length. There is a relationship between length, tube diameter, wall thickness and max RPM. At some point, resonant frequencies in normal operations can destroy the shaft. The economic answer is to shorten it and make it 2-piece, otherwise the weight and material costs are too high.

Agree^^

 

[Moleman]

Well that sucks. I know a t56 will bolt right up. But having one of those in a 6200lb truck is just what I need it for. I'd like to just go with either an hm 290 or nv3500. I'm getting kinda tired of the way the 700r4 tows.


The only shaft I found new and factory style is a Dorman one but it's 710 dollars. I guess it would just be easier to have the short shaft cut and a new yoke thrown on.

Well thanks.