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RichLo

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^ yea even the crappy leading/trailing 10" drums aren't that bad when they are working properly and adjusted properly. They are a a PITA to adjust when you don't have a functional e-brakes but if you adjust them every 2-500 miles after new parts you'll get them worn in and adjusted enough to last thousands of miles before they get soft again... then just adjust them every tire rotation / oil change.
 

letitsnow

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On my k2500, the newer style master cylinder made the pedal feel better, but it does take a bit more leg pressure to brake. A BIT more. It does not push through the brakes at all, and my brakes seem to work as good or better than OEM.

Maybe the 1/2 vs 3/4 ton brake differences make the difference? Maybe the proportioning valve is rear biased, and the OP's rear brakes aren't working correctly? Maybe his idle changed from some other fluke reason and this isn't related to the brakes? Torque converter not unlocking correctly?

Something isn't working correctly. If it were me, I'd try to lock up the brakes (at low speed) on a dirt surface and see what is actually happening.
 

97 Sierra LT4

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Just a wild thought, but it almost sounds like the torque converter is not unlocking when the brakes are pressed. Was the brake switch messed with at all??
 

Schurkey

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1. WHICH "new brake booster"?
2. The GMT800 master cylinder is almost certainly a mistake of great importance.
3. WHICH "new calipers"? Low-drag?
4. Are the rear brakes properly adjusted? Does the park brake work, and do you use it frequently?
5. How many "old hoses" in the rear? Do the rear brakes bleed nicely, good volume of fluid out the bleeder valve?
6. What is the idle speed of the engine?
7. Are you running oversized tires?
Did you disable the brake-pressure warning light on the dash? Did you remove the holdoff valve that balances front/rear brake pressure when the brakes are first applied?
Lotsa questions the original poster hasn't answered.

Some that were asked of another guy, but which would also apply to the original poster.
 
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