ABS Module Bleed procedure not bleeding all circuits?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

burntorange84

Newbie
Joined
Feb 27, 2024
Messages
6
Reaction score
7
Location
Georgetown, TX
I've got a '99 C1500 Suburban that has a bit of a swishy pedal.
When I performed the ABS bleed 4WAL procedure with a scan tool it only runs the ABS motor 2x times (pedal goes up and down and ABS pump actuates). All youtube videos I'm seen for this procedure runs the pump ~6x.

The scanner acts like it still is performing the procedure for another ~25 seconds after the first 2x pumps, but the module is silent and does nothing mechanical (I'm just holding the brake pedal). The dash ABS light may have blinked a few times during the procedure. The scanner then says it has completed the bleed procedure. I did this test procedure 3x and it acts the same each time like the module thinks all is working during the bleed test.

I have no ABS light on or indications that the module is bad. Any tips to diagnosis this sucker?

BTW: I used a Launch scanner, but I have a Tech 2 clone in the mail already.

-j
 

GoToGuy

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 16, 2020
Messages
3,136
Reaction score
3,684
Location
CAL
I'm torn between getting a Tech 2 clone or Panasonic toughbook with all the Tech 2 software installed. Could you share your clone problems and you optioned for the Tech 2 ?
 

burntorange84

Newbie
Joined
Feb 27, 2024
Messages
6
Reaction score
7
Location
Georgetown, TX
I'm torn between getting a Tech 2 clone or Panasonic toughbook with all the Tech 2 software installed. Could you share your clone problems and you optioned for the Tech 2 ?
what I emailed...there have been crickets for a week, from CarToolDeal.com.

I have a few problems with the scanner out of the box. Please see the attached photos and advise me on what needs to happen to fix these problems.

1. The screen has lines or pixels missing, It is hard to read and the capital G's look like capital C's. Literally see the screen shot for vehicle identification, there are two C's, but one is a G?

2. The OBD cable adapter won't latch. I have almost bruised my hand trying to get the latch to match up, see photo; the closest I can get it. Fortunately the cable still works.

3. The cable plug for the module lost its other threaded standoff; the nut is rattling around inside. The screw threads on the cable are messed up on one side and i didn't push it too far once i realized what was happening, but when I disconnected, the standoff came off with the cable. I can try to open the module to retrieve the nut and re-install? But the cable threads are still a problem?

-j
 

hatzie

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 27, 2015
Messages
108
Reaction score
158
Location
New Hampshire
D-sub connector nuts on rs232 serial and parallel ports and VGA ports and so on used to back out all the time. One of the things that made them so pleasant to use.
Don't reef em down super tight. All they're for is to make sure the connector doesn't back out from getting jostled. Screw them down until you've got several threads engaged or the shoulder on the thumbscrew lightly makes contact with the connector itself.

Don't operate the tool with that nut floating around in there it'll eventually short something out.

The d-sub connector is on the VCI module which can be quickly separated from the tool and opened up. You don't have to open the entire tool to get at that connector just the VCI. Rotate the locking lever on the bottom of the tool from left to right and the VCI will pop out the bottom.

Check the nut and make sure that you don't have any burned spots on it from making contact with stuff it shouldn't have.

Put a tiny dab of RTV in the connector nut threads when you screw the standoff back into the connector. It's only 5mm so don't don't Reef it down like a gorilla, you'll snap it off... but make sure it's actually tight. Once the RTV sets up it won't easily back out. I used to do this with video card ports and serial ports and lpt ports and joystick ports and...

The round connector not latching into the adapters is a problem. You're probably going to have to get that cable replaced. Check the round connectors on your your can-di as well.
Those connectors just push together with a slight amount of force on mine and the sheet metal latch clicks in.

Look at the round male pins on the cable ends and make sure those are centered in the holes in the plastic plate that's pushed down by the plug on the can-di or the diag adapters.
Make sure the female terminals on the can-di and the diag adapters aren't damaged too.
 

modernbeat

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 23, 2021
Messages
209
Reaction score
634
Location
Dallas, TX
I'm torn between getting a Tech 2 clone or Panasonic toughbook with all the Tech 2 software installed. Could you share your clone problems and you optioned for the Tech 2 ?
The laptop+Tech 2 is a thing? I've got a Toughbook that is dedicated to tuning and other garage stuff. I'd love to stick Tech 2 capability on it.
 

Orpedcrow

I don’t know what I’m doing
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2022
Messages
2,409
Reaction score
6,108
Location
East Texas
The laptop+Tech 2 is a thing? I've got a Toughbook that is dedicated to tuning and other garage stuff. I'd love to stick Tech 2 capability on it.
I think you still need the tech2 unit as a pass through, but the TIS2000 software should be what’s used on the laptop. I was just reading another thread about it.
 

df2x4

4L60E Destroyer
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
11,222
Reaction score
12,867
Location
Missouri
The laptop+Tech 2 is a thing? I've got a Toughbook that is dedicated to tuning and other garage stuff. I'd love to stick Tech 2 capability on it.

I think you still need the tech2 unit as a pass through, but the TIS2000 software should be what’s used on the laptop. I was just reading another thread about it.

There is the Tech2Win software, which is basically a Tech2 emulated on a Windows 7+ PC. It's still available for download directly from GM/ACDelco, but it's $616 for a one year license.

https://www.acdelcotds.com/subscriptions

There are vendors selling what I assume to be cracked versions of the Tech2Win software, the VXDiag VCX Nano package is the big one I'm aware of.

www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Tech2Win-Diagnostic-Programming-Version/dp/B06XDHF3XX

I have no experience with any of it, but I did research it a little before buying my Tech2 clone. IMO it just made more sense to buy a physical device that was ready to go.
 
Top