ABS delete on Vortec trucks?

[great white]

Yes, one line to front, one to back, here is T's
http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-Brake-Line-T-Fittings/1548369/10002/-1

No, that is wrong. Brakes do not work that way. There's more to the system than lines and couple t fittings.

You need to stop giving out very bad information.

 

[Justjoshiny]

ohhhhhhhh!

yea that makes sense.

Hence the edited post...

 

[great white]

Ok I was misunderstood on what a proportioning valve did. So for the fronts, id just need a T fitting after the valve to go to both the fronts?
And then the rears just run straight to the distribution block on the rear axle?

Yes, sort of. And at the same time maybe no.

I can't remember off the top of my head if the GMT is a left/right system or front/back.

Meaning: there are two chambers in the master. Depending on how it is setup, a chamber may feed the fronts or backs or it may feed front and back or left and right. Its done this way for safety. If you pop a brake line or so ethjng similar happens, you at least retain some brakes to give you a fighting chance to get the damned thing stopped.

This is where the brake distribution block comes in. It distributes the pressure to the appropriate brake as originally designed. The proportioning valve is usually incorporated into the distribution block by OEMS because it is an effecient (and cheaper) way to do it.

This is pretty much how all pre-abs vehicles were plumbed...well, until you get into 50's-60's vehicles where they used single chamber masters. Those were the dark ages for braking when they used single masters and front drums.....

 

[Justjoshiny]

Yes, sort of.

I can't remember off the top of my head if the GMT is a left/right system or front/back.

Meaning: there are two chambers in the master. Depending on how it is setup, a chamber may feed the fronts or backs or it may feed front and back on left or right. Its done this way for safety. If you pop a brake line or so ethjng similar happens, you at least retain some brakes to give you a fighting chance to get the damned thing stopped.

This is where the brake distribution block comes in. It distributes the pressure to the appropriate brake as originally designed. The proportioning valve is usually incorporated into the distribution block by OEMS because it is an effecient (and cheaper) way to do it.

This is pretty much how all pre-abs vehicles were plumbed...

The front chamber is for the rear brakes, rear chamber is front brakes. Now there are two outputs on the master cylinder, would I run both of those to a proportioning valve?

 

[Big D]

Hence the edited post...

yep

 

[great white]

Here's a few very basic brake systems to get your juices flowing:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Most OEMS will refer to the proptioning valve/distro block as a combination valve.

Do some googling on brakes systems and you should get the rest of the way there. Lots of info out there just for the taking...

 

[Justjoshiny]

Here's a few very basic brake systems to get your juices flowing:

You must be registered for see images attach

Do some googling on brakes systems and you should get the rest of the way there. Lots of info out there just for the taking...

Ohhhh ok I understand now! Thank you again! The pictures helped a lot!

 

[Justjoshiny]

Next question. What size brake line does our truck use? And are they all -3AN fittings?

 

[great white]

There can be different sizes at different points in the system.

Most guys tend to try and "patchwork" it together. I prefer to just rip it all out and start fresh from the master to the wheels. Proper fit, I can locate things where I need/want, fewer joints and its all new from the get go. Sound like a big job, but its not that bad if you can double flare and bend tube. Pretty easy once you learn how.

Of course, I tend to keep the abs if at all possible but that's another thread....

 

[Justjoshiny]

There can be different sizes at different points in the system.

Most guys tend to try and "patchwork" it together. I prefer to just rip it all out and start fresh from the master to the wheels. Proper fit, I can locate things where I need/want, fewer joints and its all new from the get go. Sound like a big job, but its not that bad if you can double flare and bend tube. Pretty easy once you learn how.

Of course, I tend to keep the abs if at all possible but that's another thread....

Well I cant add ABS to my axles.. Wouldn't mind keeping it, but its not gonna happen. So would you recommend 1/4" line or 3/16" line?