'97 5.7 Vortec Low Oil Pressure

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Supercharged111

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Maybe that's what is making my 06 Denali 6.0 think it has (and when cold actually does have)low pressure on initial startup. Didn't know they had this. Where is it located (sender and filter)?

Those motors send shavings through the system and the bypass will stuck open in the pump causing low oil pressure on startup. The filter keeps these shavings out of the sender. The 350 doesn't pull this crap.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Those motors send shavings through the system and the bypass will stuck open in the pump causing low oil pressure on startup. The filter keeps these shavings out of the sender. The 350 doesn't pull this crap.
Sounds like a another good reason to me to "just say no" to another LS-- without a good extended warranty anyway
 

Pinger

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Sounds like a another good reason to me to "just say no" to another LS-- without a good extended warranty anyway

The first mention of 'extended warranty' I've encountered on this forum. In the UK, it's all they talk about. Maintenance is a word they don't recognise - just leave it to the warranty.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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The first mention of 'extended warranty' I've encountered on this forum. In the UK, it's all they talk about. Maintenance is a word they don't recognise - just leave it to the warranty.
I've learned in my middle age that there's some things best left for the professionals. I do try to do as much as I can. But I'll paraphrase Inspector Callahan, " A woman's got to know her limitations ". I've learned to see when the water's too deep, before jumping in!
 

Supercharged111

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Guess more aluminum in the engine components? Less attention paid to proper assembly in the factory?

It's the AFM system that's the worst. The cam lobes and lifters can fail and send shavings through the motors which gets the pump sticking and wears the rings and oil consumption goes up. Another way they like to burn oil is from an AFM valve in the pan spraying oil on the bottom of the pistons and getting the rings gummed up. Another way is the early non-baffled valve covers pollute the intake and gum up the rings. I got mine with low mileage. At the first sign of valve train noise I'll get new cam and lifters with AFM delete to save the rest of the motor.
 

smdk2500

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. Where is it located (sender and filter)?
The sender is located on the back side to the drivers side of where a distributor would be on a SBC or BBC. Ive heard of people getting the sender out from reaching up from the bottom and somehow getting there arm and hand up there. I cannot get mine up there. The easiest way is to remove the intake.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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It's the AFM system that's the worst. The cam lobes and lifters can fail and send shavings through the motors which gets the pump sticking and wears the rings and oil consumption goes up. Another way they like to burn oil is from an AFM valve in the pan spraying oil on the bottom of the pistons and getting the rings gummed up. Another way is the early non-baffled valve covers pollute the intake and gum up the rings. I got mine with low mileage. At the first sign of valve train noise I'll get new cam and lifters with AFM delete to save the rest of the motor.
Would an 06 6.0 Denali have that? Not with the truck so I can't look at the VIN and build sheet. Truck ran good after it built pressure, and kept pressure up. Just the first start of the day, and 10 or 15 minutes of idling, is when it did this. Toward the end of our time driving it, it was getting a little worse about this. Quit driving it because the transmission temperature sensor was going out. Bought the new sensor; just never had time to tear into it, or $$ for transmission fluid.
And yes the lifters clatter when the pressure is low. I've heard many trucks, even several years newer,doing the same thing on startup. My 06 truck has 205 thou on it, so I guess it is an old LS thing
 

Jacob Hendrix

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I put some seafoam in the crankcase and that actually significantly quieted the lifter noise. The gauge on the cluster reads about 10 PSI at warm idle occasionally but most of the time it stays stuck at zero. I find it hard to believe that it's zero that frequently for the truck to run as well as it does. Can the mechanical gauge be hooked up without removing the distributor?
 
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