95 Long bed Reg Cab named "Stitch"

[618 Syndicate]

Boiled linseed oil needs to be redone about every 6 months or so according to one of my buddies who does detailing. He's used the method on patina'd stuff.

 

[MrPink]

Bit of a parts order made today.

Stand alone fuse block specifically for LS swaps
ICT Billet Starter connector since the one on the engine harness is MIA
ICT Billet pre-wired OBD-II port for the swap
Soldering Iron(mine went MIA)

Anyone have a good pinout for the under hood fuse block and the C200 P/S pass through for a 95+ truck? I am striking out, I have my C100 plug(D/S) pin out but not the fuse block or even the c200 pass through(P/S).

 

[Tomahawk 309]

This stuff is supposed to be the bomb!

KBS Coatings 8404 KBS DiamondFinish Clear Coat | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - KBS DiamondFinish Clear Coat with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Paint at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

That stuff is garbage. I used it on some carbon fiber and it started flaking within a year. I've also used their exhaust paint. It is garbage as well. Their exhaust primer is very good though.
Spray max Is excellent clear though.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[MrPink]

Got the fuse block rewired(came from the vendor wired wrong) and with no label on it so I made my own, have my OBD2 data port too that I have to wire in. I should be able to mount that in the current OBD-1 port location under the dash. I now need to integrate the fuse block into my engine harness and wire in a few other random things from the existing harness I think the wipers are the main thing. Outside of that I need to figure out if I need anything from the inline engine to I/P harness connector because if not I will be eliminating the passenger side pass through completely.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[MrPink]

Figuring out some things that can be removed from the OEM under hood fuse block asm. **Things with red has through them are being removed**

I will be piggy backing the standalone block asm off the under hood block. It has a 30A inline fuse for the constant 12v already so it will work just fine.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Wh4t3v3rs]

Figuring out some things that can be removed from the OEM under hood fuse block asm. **Things with red has through them are being removed**

I will be piggy backing the standalone block asm off the under hood block. It has a 30A inline fuse for the constant 12v already so it will work just fine.

You must be registered for see images attach

You should repin one of those relays for your 4Hi/low headlight conversion.....

 

[MrPink]

I could do that yeah. Have to look up a wiring diagram on how to do the 4 high mod lol.

 

[MrPink]

Got 5 min in the garage today lol. Mounted the stand alone box for the LS swap. I still have to splice it to the LS harness and TBI engine harness to use the c100 plug(d/s) and 6 wires of the p/s pass through out of the 20ish that are there lmao.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[618 Syndicate]

Thank you sir.

 

[MrPink]

Thank you sir.

The first one is a Borg Warner 4me-455 but I am having a hell of a time finding specs on it. It was used on Cat D379,389 engines. It could have either had a cat propriatary flange, or a V-band flange.

2nd one is a bit easier, its a Garrett T18A40 from a Detroit diesel 12v149T. Looks to have a T6 style flange and 1.32 exh, .96 ar compressor side.

3rd is a bust, the numbers by the flange I can't get anything to come up on.

I would honestly find a rebuild kit for the T18A40 and run that one. They were the most widely used in various Detroit Diesel and Volvo applications so many Semi-truck repair facilities should have access to the rebuild kits and find a turbo shop that is local(there is one on the West side of Mi) and have them balance the center section.