94 k1500 Tune Up Kit???

[cjman250]

i have a BWD cap and rotor, Xact wires (which im getting rid of, dont like them), and AC Delco platinums

 

[TylerZ281500]

it wont be raspy and obnoxious, itll dialit down and sound proper and function alot better, an h pipe or x pipe is best.

 

[Rusty Nail]

In short, yes. That's not only my opinion but my experience as well. You will gain the low end grunt you are both missing and looking for on the street PLUS it'll sound more wicked. Increased fuel economy is an additional benefit. "x pipe', "h pipe" is all the same difference. The benefit is found in increased scavenging, meaning better exhaust flow. This serves to equalize exhaust flow out of both sides from the engine and the result is a more "mellow" sound and a few ponies not to mention a reduction in overall DB. It will sound FAR more classy/exotic with an h pipe. this is both cheap and easy to do...just connect both sides of the exhaust somewhere, normally found directly behind the trans.
Tyler has a good understanding, IMO. A full header is overkill for the street and a shorty will suffice you fine I would imagine. The point of a header is to not force the exhaust gasses from each cylinder to share the same space in the collector.
it's all about timing, kind of. "The idea behind an exhaust header is to eliminate the manifold's back pressure. Instead of a common manifold that all of the cylinders share, each cylinder gets its own exhaust pipe. These pipes come together in a larger pipe called the collector. The individual pipes are cut and bent so that each one is the same length as the others. By making them the same length, it guarantees that each cylinder's exhaust gases arrive in the collector spaced out equally so there is no back pressure generated by the cylinders sharing the collector."

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/header_basics/

 

[TylerZ281500]

i run an h pipe on mine, running 3" at the moment because im pushing a bit of power but i think im going back t 2.5" which even for all the stock tbi's ive dealt with seems to work best.

headers dont eliminate back pressure entirely, because its there for a reason, true duals however dont help give the proper amount of back pressure neither do long tubes are an almost bone stock engine. the point of a header on these trucks or any slightly modified vehicle is to give the exhaust a clear shot of escaping or ease of escaping the engine, where as if you look at the stock log manifolds you can surely see its taking the motor some effort to push it all out in a sense.

 

[adb5274.ab]

well looks like im going to be ordering some shorty headers and fab'n up an x-pipe for my exhaust. I have read some where that the placement of and x-pipe or h-pipe is important, where would be the most beneficial place on these trucks to add the crossover to the exhaust?? closer to the headers the better? also, the exhaust I purchased is set up for long tube headers, I could cut it and fab it to make it work for shorties but would this extra work be worth it just to run the shorties? how much benefit would I be losing by using long tube headers??

 

[Rusty Nail]

Since the exhaust you already have is set for long tubes ( full length ) i'd just run them. 1 5/8 primaries, 3 inch collectors are pretty standard. My other truck has 1.5 inch primaries and 2.5 inch collector headers on it though. You will most likely not notice any difference , especially you have nothing to compare it to. For your application, it's nothing to worry about. Again, for your application, placement of the h-pipe won't matter as long as you have one -you'll not know any difference. Sounds silly but it's real. You will still reap benefits of having headers and connecting both sides of engine exhaust. It'll sound REALLY cool AND make better power than the next guy.
The vast extent of my experience comes from cars that sit much lower to the ground than trucks, which is in part why I specifically made mention of behind the transmission. Mostly because that's where the space is in cars. One could weld collector fittings in the exhaust anywhere they felt like so you could unbolt the entire system (or any part of it.) For example, my hotrod has long collectors and fittings at the end of the headers, no tailpipes, and I can unbolt the h-pipe and mufflers from the car without having to break my header collector seal to remove/service the trans or I can run it with no exhaust ... lol...An h-pipe has an inherent amount of HEAT to consider and I want it away from my transmission.
Full length headers, long collectors, extra collector fittings. This runs as long as the transmission. My h-pipe sits directly underneath the front of my driveshaft, not the yoke. A very small piece of pipe before the mufflers, mufflers and resonator tips that terminate before the differential.
I think kind of a general rule of thumb is the closer to the engine, the more benefit one will realize, but if you're anything like me...i'm constantly messing with it and it MUST be practical (simple to service). Tuning my collector length was more important to me for my race car and I wanted to be able to unbolt it. My lowered hotrod is driven to the track, it ain't no trailer queen and ground clearance IS an issue.
If it were ME, and I had an exhaust for full length headers, I would get some. They are really pretty cheap. I'd put it all on the truck and take it to an exhaust shop. The exhaust guy will probably have a very good idea and some experience with your truck. Get it jacked up and look at it, the right spot may prove obvious. My exhaust guy charged me 40 bucks to do it with aluminized pipe. We had a piece of pipe, held it up, marked the spots on both pipes and he simply cut a hole in them with his welder and made it. Remember though, mine has extra collector fittings in it and being serviceable was mandatory. As soon as you connect both exhaust pipes, the entire system becomes one very large piece (and it's heavy), especially with full tailpipes. I just want to help man, good luck with whatever you decide to do, I don't wish to overstep a stranger's bounds.

 

[TylerZ281500]

to an extent theres an importance, try to keep it somewhere by the rear of your trans and what not, we tried putting one all the way in back so it looked like true dual and it did nothing, it acted like trues and that far back it sounded kinda funky. mines right by the trans/tcase area. x pipe it seems needs to be up a littel farther judging fro mmessing with those on f-bodys but dont quote me as to how sound that statment is. like rusty said go ahead and run your long tubes, shortys may do better but if you have em and are dead set then go for it, your dealing with a stock engine anything will flow better than those manfolds.