Code 32 causing no-start & performance issues! 94 k1500 5.7

[Komet]

I'd put a new ICM in it, preferably AC Delco or Davis Unified Ignition.

 

[Maui_chevyk1500]

Thank you to all for the replies. I will give it try and replace my icm with the new coil also handy. Thanks for all the in depth explanation!
I knew the conditions of my no-start were so specific that it may point me in the right direction and it sounds like this is a good bet. I will let you guys know when I have some results.
and yes I will make sure I separate my spark wires because I know better, I’ve just been lazy…

 

[Neonman]

Ok so my truck is A ‘94 Chevy k1500 5.7 auto pretty much stock.
I’ll start from the first time I got the code 32
Truck would drive fine on short trips for weeks but as soon as I would take it on any drive with highway speeds for a sustained amount of time, after it was parked it would not want to start again.
I Tried jumping it and checking all the obvious things but it seemed like no fuel or no spark.
Then I would return the next morning and it would start up first crank and run fine all the way home.
I soon read that the ecm takes a test reading after a certain amount of 50mph driving, It Cycles the EGR and waits to see if the difference occurs at 02 sensor. Based on that reading it can throw code 32.
From the beginning I have tried:
-new cap and rotor.
-Tested fuel pressure before the filter came out to around 10 psi.
-Fuel pump is only a few years old
-removed and cleaned EGR valve (it was definitely funky and black).
-replaced my temp sensor because I realized it was broken and unplugged.
- also check & replaced numerous grounds in the engine compartment.
-new spark plugs because it was needed
-checked vacuum system visually to verify correct and not damaged.

After spark plugs it actually seems to idle worse. Idle fluctuates slightly when it didn’t before
Also stalls from time to time at idle.

Basically still not sure if my problem lies with the EGR/MAP or a short to ground/ bad ground somewhere in the harness.
I am not very confident with a multimeter and I don’t want to keep throwing parts at it.
also it’s hard to tell at this point wether I’ve fixed it or not because I am hesitant to take it on a drive long enough to get possibly stranded.
I Would love to be able to positively identify the issue and know for sure it’s fixed.
Sorry for the long post but I hope it’s all helpful information.
Thanks in advance for any input!

check your egr solenoid and replace the intake water temperature switch, you must get an exact match for these parts. a good way to check for the egr solenoid is unplug it, plug(cap) the egr valve , unplug the other line on the solenoid and plug(cap) the line. make sure there are no leaks in the line. I bought the new solenoid and I still haven't put it in because the engine runs so much better without it. more pep, slightly better gas mileage. only issue is that it doesn't idle perfect and ignore the check engine light ,it doesn't affect the computer. that solenoid costs around $100 online. I just went through this nightmare a couple months ago.