94 A/C Ready to Purchase

[dave s]

I'm finally at the point where I need to get the A/C working again in the 94. It's been sitting and I've been fixing everything else the past year and a half. It's a R134A system. Rock Auto has a kit that uses a scroll replacement compressor. Is that any good? They write it up as being better, quieter....?? Is that true? has anyone used this setup? The picture of it has a plug where the switch should thread in. And a small pigtail connector hanging out front? I'm just skeptical that it's an easy replacement. They list the stock type compressor as well. I'm just trying to see it it's worth switching to a scroll type. Here is a link to it.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12710309&cc=1050994&jsn=1977

Never did any A/C but I'm going to give it a go. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[yevgenievich]

Looks like a direct bolt in. Should be an upgrade in a reliability, but might not be exact comparable capacity. On my old 91 burb, I went with sanden replacement that worked very well with matching condenser and orifice tube. But it was a dual ac system so I wanted bigger capacity. Used stock lines as well.
If I was sticking with r4 style and did not want to change for sanden, would likely try the scroll style replacement.

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/r4-to-sanden-whith-stock-ac-lines-for-serpantine.22437/

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Make sure you use at least 1 can of the system flush and get the flush gun.

 

[Schurkey]

Wild Guess: Scroll compressor is a bottom-feeder Made In China deal.

 

[smdk2500]

I debated on getting one for my 95 when I replaced mine but I opted not to. I know in the world of refrigeration that I work in they work great till the system runs out of refrigerant while they are turning. After that you have to replace them or at least that's what I've been told. Ive had a few systems that where ran without and where ok but I wouldn't want to chance it. That right there is what turned me away. In theory your system shouldn't ever run out but we all know it happens.

 

[dave s]

I appreciate all the information. Let me ask this question. I called my son in law this morning and he said it would always cool for a day or two after he charged it. So could I just replace the orifice tube, filter dryer, and condenser, flush everything and reassemble with all new seals? Can you flush out a compressor? Is that a stupid idea? I read about dumping the oil out of the compressor and see what color it looks...?? Or is it usually the compressor itself that leaks?

 

[Schurkey]

1. Are you sure the condenser is the ONLY leak?

2. If this were me, I'd replace EVERY O-ring in the system.

3. Yes, orifice tube and filter/dryer. Flush BEFORE installing the new parts.

4. I'd install an inline filter on the suction hose ahead of the compressor.

5. I wouldn't replace the compressor unless there was an actual reason. Noisy, leaking seal on the front, bad valves, etc.

6. There'll be some oil in the compressor, but unlike the old A-6 compressor, there's no oil sump/reservoir.

 

[dave s]

In reply to Schurkey,
1. There could be multiple leaks. I know the compressor looks clean and dry, no oily spots around where seal would be. For that matter, every connection looks to be clean.
2.Replacing all seals is on the list.
3.Flush everything. You guys recommend a good setup and solvent? I see them on RockAuto and the price range is wide. Is the more expensive solvent the better product?
4.Filter- Does it go in the hard line or the hose part?
5.I don't know the compressors leaking. It's not noisy now but I assume that's because it's not working? Seal on front is clean and dry. How would I determine if it has bad valves? Disassemble?
Lastly, I'm not against buying a new compressor. The more I dig into this the more complicated it becomes! Lol. Funny how that happens.

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Make sure whatever compressor you get is BRAND NEW, not rebuilt. Rebuilt ones just seem to be cleaned and resold. Learned that lesson with my Lincoln and my LTD, LTD ate one compressor and the Lincoln ate another itself. Had a new one put on the Lincoln and it's been fine for the past six or seven years now. Same deal with my K1500, new compressor, no problems for the past three years and counting.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Make sure whatever compressor you get is BRAND NEW, not rebuilt

AND check your clutch air gap, s/b ~0.020 - 0.030". I got a new NAPA compressor which had a gap of over 0.080" and proceeded to smoke (literally) the clutch within a week.