88 GMC Trail/DD Rig

[TylerZ281500]

woah thats alot of stuff ive never heard of. A) whats a divorced tcas? B) whats the benefit of a twin sticked one? C) how can you mate them together?

 

[bggrnchvy]

Thanks for the info. I didn't know you can run the flanges without the slugs. I wish I woulda known that. I'm sure I'll be picking your brain a lot during the build. Your rig was a big influence on what I wanted before you truggified it.

Actually question for you now. I have a twin sticked divorced 205 out of a dodge I was initially going to run before I ran into the VSS thing and bought a pass 241. Now I have the urge to try the 241/205 doubler since I have both cases and can run the pass 241 in the mean time. Is it worth attempting to mate a 241 to the divorced dodge 205 or should I start looking at other avenues. I realize Im gonna have to bore out the 205 input and switch to a chevy but thats the extent of my knowledge on making it happen.

Those divorced cases don't have a mounting pattern drilled and tapped on their face. Not even sure if there is enough material their to mill a flat sealing surface and drill and tap a pattern to bring them in. I'd look into other options personally unless you want to run a driver drop 241 with a SYE to the input yoke of the 205 with a CV H yoke. It does/would work, but it's not compact in the least.

woah thats alot of stuff ive never heard of. A) whats a divorced tcas? B) whats the benefit of a twin sticked one? C) how can you mate them together?

A) A case that isn't mounted to the transmission. The only connection directly is a short driveshaft.

B) Being able to independantly operate front and rear outputs for front digs (rear in neutral, front in drive to pull the front end around tighter).

C) There are double kits out there from Duffy and soon ORD that eliminate the back half of the 241 case and replace it with a milled plate of aluminum that mates directly to a face mount 205 and they provide a 4340 or similiar splined intermediate shaft to send power from the back of the 241 planetary gearset to the 205 input. This turns the 241 into a range box.

 

[Solid94]

So Kyle I have a question. Is it worth puttig a SYE on my stock 241? I wear out the slip yoke bushing every 3 years because of my driveline angle. But a guy around the corner with a SAS 94 burb gave me his two cents and said the 241 is a junk case don't throw any money at it

 

[bggrnchvy]

So Kyle I have a question. Is it worth puttig a SYE on my stock 241? I wear out the slip yoke bushing every 3 years because of my driveline angle. But a guy around the corner with a SAS 94 burb gave me his two cents and said the 241 is a junk case don't throw any money at it

If you like the reduction in your 241 there's no reason to change it out. Alot of people have a cast iron, gear drive only mentality that's difficult to break through, but the 241 is plenty stout on it's own provided you don't hit it directly.

As to the SYE, it's up to you. You could go to a 2 peice rear driveshaft where the intermediate shaft is within a few degrees of the rear output to eliminate the load on the bushing and give you some more breakover angle. The cost of doing that though is probably going to be more or at least similiar to an SYE unless you use a factory 2 piece.

 

[Solid94]

Oh okay. Thanks. There is always something to learn. I'll look into the two piece route and see how much it will cost

 

[70stroker]

looks like a nice build, not to sure how i missed it for so long, but i will for sure be following it now.

 

[88GMC]

Well update and request for help. Finally think I got most the parts to get working between shifts.

Attempted to strip my 60 down today and ran into some trouble that maybe someone can help with. The axle is an unknown year DRW 60 with Powertrain lockouts which I am unfamiliar with. I got the one spring style snap ring but still can't get the hub out. It gets about a 16th inch from the end of the stub shaft and won't go any further. Any hints/ideas? Thanks.

Pics of what I'm dealing with...

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[jps4jeep]

I am on my phone so the pics are not the best for my viewing, but sounds like you got the lock out off and can't get the hub off? If so, you need a hub socket, it will have a number of "prongs" that will engage the openings in eeh hub nut that holds the whole sha-bam together on the spindle. I'll look for a picture.

 

[jps4jeep]

http://completeoffroad.com/i-154207-spindle-nut-socket-dana-60-6-prong-w1270.html

here you go, this one is a bit pricey, I think NAPA sells one for under $20. also I might have missied it but if this is a ford of chevy axle, I know some ford D60 had 4 prong hub nuts, I think it was only on the TTB fronts and early DRW Ford D60's up till like 87.. I honestly don't recall, so count the number of corresponding detents on the nut to verify that your buying the right socket.

 

[outalne94z71]

he only has half the lockout off, not near the bearing nuts yet and he will need a 6 prong one, the 10 bolt and d44 use the 4 prong, d60 and 14 bolt ff use 6

to 88gmc, i would bet the lockout is hung up on burs of the splines on the stub shaft from the looks of your picture.