5.7 front engine leak

[Ugly Duck]

Just google "Chevy China Wall" and check out how many of them leak. When they leak they drip down the front & rear of the engine and make you think you've got main seal issues.

 

[91babyblue]

Just google "Chevy China Wall" and check out how many of them leak. When they leak they drip down the front & rear of the engine and make you think you've got main seal issues.

Thx ya.

 

[Schurkey]

How many miles? Common issue for the rubber seal lips to wear a groove in the steel of the damper hub. Then even a new seal won't stop the leak.

There are "repair sleeves" that press over the damper hub so the seal has a fresh, new surface to seal against. Not expensive; they can be tricky to install. The damper has to be removed, and the dirt/rust polished-off. Then the repair sleeve is crammed over the damper hub using anaerobic sealer (included with the sleeve) as a lubricant.

This all works really well for about as long as the damper went originally--BUT when it does fail, it'll chew up the seal pretty bad.

Example:
www.summitracing.com/parts/TMK-88176

Timken 88176 Timken Harmonic Balancer Repair Sleeves | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Timken Harmonic Balancer Repair Sleeves with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Harmonic Balancer Repair Sleeves at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Inspect the damper while you have it off--the thing may have rotted rubber, and needs to be replaced. No point sleeving a damper that's no good to begin with.

When you put the damper back on, use a little RTV silicone to seal between the damper ID and the crank-snout OD, especially around the keyway.

Verify the PCV system, no seal will stand up to a pressurized crankcase for very long.

 

[91babyblue]

How many miles? Common issue for the rubber seal lips to wear a groove in the steel of the damper hub. Then even a new seal won't stop the leak.

There are "repair sleeves" that press over the damper hub so the seal has a fresh, new surface to seal against. Not expensive; they can be tricky to install. The damper has to be removed, and the dirt/rust polished-off. Then the repair sleeve is crammed over the damper hub using anaerobic sealer (included with the sleeve) as a lubricant.

This all works really well for about as long as the damper went originally--BUT when it does fail, it'll chew up the seal pretty bad.

Example:
www.summitracing.com/parts/TMK-88176

Timken 88176 Timken Harmonic Balancer Repair Sleeves | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Timken Harmonic Balancer Repair Sleeves with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Harmonic Balancer Repair Sleeves at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Inspect the damper while you have it off--the thing may have rotted rubber, and needs to be replaced. No point sleeving a damper that's no good to begin with.

When you put the damper back on, use a little RTV silicone to seal between the damper ID and the crank-snout OD, especially around the keyway.

Verify the PCV system, no seal will stand up to a pressurized crankcase for very long.

Thx for that info. I got 150 km. On it.

 

[Smitty Jr]

I had a very small nick in the o-ring seal on the front timing cover. Chased it forever before we finally found it.