Stock engine swap 98 K2500 5.7

[K250098]

Hey everyone. This is my first post on here, looking for some advice. I had a look around and couldn't really find a post like this. If I missed something then please redirect me.

I have a 98 k2500 with the 350 hooked to a 4l80e. The trucks in good shape aside from a dent in the driver's side box that I am planning on repairing, trans is smooth and quiet, will be doing the rear dif here soon as well. Zero rust, and I love these old trucks, easy to work on and reliable. Ive had it for 2 years and replaced just about all the suspension and steering parts, most of the accessories, and front brakes.

Basically, my head gaskets went the other day and for the mileage on the engine and the lack of shops in my area that do rebuilds, I decided to order a reman 350 to replace my current one. Not looking to build anything special. Just need my work truck to be running solid again.

Just looking for any tips or advice, and any issues people have run into. I've worked on vehicles my whole life, however this is the first time I've swapped an engine.

The 350 I bought has all the tinware installed, as well as all seals and gaskets required for the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds etc. All the electrical accessories on the front end of the engine are pretty much brand new so I'll be swapping them all over, I will be replacing the power steering pump.

I plan on replacing the engine mounts, assorted bolts, hoses and a few other things while doing the swap. As well as cleaning all the surfaces etc. But again, just looking for advice from anyone on the little things that can be hard to sort out.

Thanks all. A pic of the old girl for ya

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[xXxPARAGONxXx]

Take plenty of pics along the way (especially of bracket and connector locations) and you should be okay. For exhaust bolts, spray them with PB Blaster beforehand, and let them soak (preferably a day in advance). If you can heat them with a torch (a little) before you attempt to remove them, would be even better.

You might need an exhaust manifold spreader to get the exhaust manifold holes to line up with the cylinder head [YouTube video].

 

[1997]

my 95 blew head gasket a while back, pulled the engine, repaired and re-installed, so far been running great.

1. take lots of pics before you start
2. bag parts, fasteners and label
3. download service manual from here
4. not sure how it comes apart, youtube/ask here, don't break stuff.
5. order parts ahead of time especially the o ring stuff
6. mark your lines to trans, oil cooler, fuel etc
7. change you lower rad hose if you haven't
8. your exhaust manifolds are a real pain and shrink when removed so might not go back on
9. you'll need to a puller for the powersteering pulley

It's not as painful as you think, just take your time and be safe.

 

[Schurkey]

Penetrating oil on the exhaust manifold bolts is a total waste of time, effort, and enthusiasm. The oil won't go past the bolt-head where it's screwed to the manifold, never mind getting an inch down the shank into the threads.

MAYBE you'd have some success with penetrating oil on the studs that hold the exhaust pipes to the manifold. At least there the oil can wet the threads.

Install the exhaust manifold spreaders BEFORE you loosen the bolts, and keep 'em installed until the new bolts are tightened on the new engine. Expect to have to plane the manifolds in the meantime.

"Good Luck" finding new rubber cushions/motor mounts. The aftermarket mounts have thin, cheap steel cages. And the Poly inserts don't fit properly--WAY wider than the original rubber inserts.

 

[letitsnow]

If it's never been replaced, I'd install a new steering stabilizer while the motor is out. The OEM fasteners on that shock are a pia to get off with the motor in the way.

 

[CumminsFever]

I don't recall if the '98 has engine oil cooler lines or not. If it does, I'd be replacing those lines as well as the quick connect fittings.
Nice truck!