i have a 98 k1500 with a nv3500, i got a 4 bolt main 350 bored .060 over with a gm performance crank, rods and dished pistons with valve reliefs, I'm planing on running my vortec heads with a set of springs and retainers from alex's parts that allow for .550" lift and a set of 1.6 comp roller rockers and screw in studs, the cam in this motors specs are .436/.448 lift, 214-218* duration and 109* LSA, when i get this motor in will i be able to run the stock fuel injection or is this cam going to be too big and make the knock sensor retard the timing or can i have it tuned so the knock sensor isnt as sensitive and doesnt retard the timing?
350 build
- Thread starter 98k15
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
michael hurd
Stalker be gone.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2012
- Messages
- 1,876
- Reaction score
- 603
You haven't mentioned what the final compression ratio is. I would use thin head gaskets to bump your final compression ratio up a bit if you are using dished pistons, Fel-pro 1094 steel shim.
The stock camshaft ( going by specs from Sealed Power ) is .414 intake and .428 exhaust, and 191/195 degrees duration with a 111 degree lobe separation angle. Overlap is 32 degrees.
Plugging your provided cam numbers into an online calculator, I get an overlap of -2 degrees. I doubt that will be great, as overlap contributes to proper cylinder scavenging, as well as providing a bit of a passive EGR effect.
Even if your .436/448 numbers are with the inclusion of the 1.6 rockers, it's still lame IMO. Is this a roller cam, or a flat tappet?
Stock fuel injection should flow plenty enough fuel for your combination, you should really get a custom tune.
Setting the distributor correctly is paramount in getting everything to play nice. You need a tech2 scanner to set the distributor correctly.
That camshaft will not affect your knock sensor, as far as I can see. The knock sensor can pick up items like a loose bracket on the engine that is vibrating, etc. To make it less effective ( I don't recommend this ) you could do what other ill-informed people used to do, wrap it in teflon tape and re-install it, rather loosely.
Bottom line, see a tuning specialist to get the bugs worked out after it is running.
The stock camshaft ( going by specs from Sealed Power ) is .414 intake and .428 exhaust, and 191/195 degrees duration with a 111 degree lobe separation angle. Overlap is 32 degrees.
Plugging your provided cam numbers into an online calculator, I get an overlap of -2 degrees. I doubt that will be great, as overlap contributes to proper cylinder scavenging, as well as providing a bit of a passive EGR effect.
Even if your .436/448 numbers are with the inclusion of the 1.6 rockers, it's still lame IMO. Is this a roller cam, or a flat tappet?
Stock fuel injection should flow plenty enough fuel for your combination, you should really get a custom tune.
Setting the distributor correctly is paramount in getting everything to play nice. You need a tech2 scanner to set the distributor correctly.
That camshaft will not affect your knock sensor, as far as I can see. The knock sensor can pick up items like a loose bracket on the engine that is vibrating, etc. To make it less effective ( I don't recommend this ) you could do what other ill-informed people used to do, wrap it in teflon tape and re-install it, rather loosely.
Bottom line, see a tuning specialist to get the bugs worked out after it is running.
michael hurd
Stalker be gone.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2012
- Messages
- 1,876
- Reaction score
- 603
Here's a primer on Comp's website that can help:
http://www.compcams.com/Pages/413/cam-timing-lobe-separation-angle.aspx
http://www.compcams.com/Pages/413/cam-timing-lobe-separation-angle.aspx
Those specs are with 1.5 rockers, its a hydraulic flat tappet cam, i have a tech 2 to use to set the distributor, and once its is running im planning on trailering it to Justune in Indepence MO to have them tune it, EGR will be deleted when its tune because its blocked off, my headers didnt have the provisions so i blocked it off.
If this isn't a good cam for the setup then what would be? i have everything to run hydraulic roller or flat tappet cam, this cam came in the bottom end when it was given to me, I'm looking to keep my low end the motor has now but gain all around power, if i don't gain any low end then that's okay, i have a 08 2500 6.0 that i pull with, this truck is just a toy and im looking for higher WHP numbers and not necessarily WTQ numbers, like i said this truck is a toy and i would like for it to be quicker than it is.
michael hurd
Stalker be gone.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2012
- Messages
- 1,876
- Reaction score
- 603
If you have everything to run a roller, then I would use that and go to a slightly larger than factory roller camshaft, with a bit more than the factory spec 32 degrees duration, especially considering you are going with headers, and a tune. Perhaps something in the 38-40 degree duration range?
I would highly recommend using an x or H pipe to benefit from the extra scavenging they bring.
Something a bit less radical than the LT4 hot cam, but more than the stock profile.
Definitely go with thinner head gaskets, especially with a dished piston.
I would highly recommend using an x or H pipe to benefit from the extra scavenging they bring.
Something a bit less radical than the LT4 hot cam, but more than the stock profile.
Definitely go with thinner head gaskets, especially with a dished piston.
OutlawDrifter
Long Roof K2500 Driver
Justune did the initial tune on my LS swapped Camaro, I personally wouldn't take anything back to him. It made OK power on the dyno, but doesn't have the low rpm driveability it should with the cam profile I'm running.
Definitely run a roller cam, no reason not to if you have all the parts.
Definitely run a roller cam, no reason not to if you have all the parts.
Do you have any suggestions on what cam to get? I've heard good and bad but the same goes for everyone, I'm going to take it there tho because it's the only place close to me that I can have dyno tune it and not just a mail order tune
You could get a ZZ4 cam pretty easily. As another poster stated, it is in between the weeny stock cam and the LT4 hot cam. Specs at 208/221 on a 112 LSA. I'd say that a vortec induction system would hinder the potential of anything resembling the 218/228 of the hot cam. A ZZ4 cam would be in my suburban if I didn't have to daily drive it.
