Budget 350 build combo

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Sean Buick 76

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Yes I plan to boost it.

What you are describing isn’t really an engine build it’s more of refresh. Not cutting the crank on a rebuild is a short cut. Most blocks aren’t square so decking to square them is a good idea before trying to optimize quench. Again rebuilding an engine without doing the required machine work is asking for trouble. You dont want a fresh machined head surface for your head gaskets?

In hindsight I should have bought a dart SBC block, and a forged rotating assembly. So that’s what I will do if or when I have an issue with this one.
 
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Schurkey

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Thousands of years ago, Chrysler was having problems with head gaskets on their 2.2L K-car engine.

As this was a "warranty" repair, guys were removing the head bolts, jacking-up the head the minimum-possible amount, pulling the old gasket out, sliding a new gasket in, and then lowering the head again. Didn't even put a gasket scraper on it--couldn't, the head was only lifted high enough to get the gaskets over the alignment dowels. Fairly sure they never pulled the timing belt.

Seems they were convinced this was truly a "gasket" problem rather than a head/block machining issue.

This sort of short-cutting made me crazier than I already am.

However, given modern gaskets and modern machining, I wouldn't be too scared to put a new gasket on old machining in terms of gasket life on a grocery-getter--if I were assured there was no debris on the gasket surfaces from the old gasket. From a performance standpoint, yeah, the block is warped, the head is warped, and getting the block square-decked is pretty-much mandatory.

So where does a "budget build" fall in the granny-goes-to-church vs. Drag-strip-hero usage continuum?
 

Erik the Awful

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Yes I plan to boost it, why would you ask that after reading my post?
I didn't ask. In your initial post you stated you used a cam optimized for a turbo, but you didn't state any turbo intentions. After my first reply, you added that you chose forged piston to hold up to boost. That clarified it to me. My second post reflects that.

I'm not saying your work isn't good, nor is it wasteful. I was just opining that this is not a "budget" build. You can buy a Blueprint crate motor with a new block for about what you have in your engine.

You dont want a fresh machined head surface for your head gaskets?
I have no problem running with the stock machining on the deck, so long as the deck is straight. Use a quality head gasket and good hardware.
 

Sean Buick 76

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Those blueprint engines are junk. I can’t imagine the oil clearances and tolerances on them. Sure it’s always easier to buy a crate engine. Building it properly yourself is very satisfying. With the cost of machine work skyrocketing I should have just bought a Dart SBC block and a Molnar stroker assembly and AFR heads. I was trying to do a budget style setup and the $2000 machine shop bill bit me in the butt.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Those blueprint engines are junk. I can’t imagine the oil clearances and tolerances on them. Sure it’s always easier to buy a crate engine. Building it properly yourself is very satisfying. With the cost of machine work skyrocketing I should have just bought a Dart SBC block and a Molnar stroker assembly and AFR heads. I was trying to do a budget style setup and the $2000 machine shop bill bit me in the butt.
The two I have been into were far from junk. The GM Goodwrench 350s on the otherhand, garbage.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Those blueprint engines are junk. I can’t imagine the oil clearances and tolerances on them.
I read through the 1st page in that 67-72 thread, the only thing they talked about was bad heads. There also seems to be a question about who sold it and who installed the heads. There were others in the same thread that said Blueprint engines worked great. If Blueprint was such a garbage manufacturer, why did they get a great rating? I bought one of their "383" short blocks, used my own heads and intake so, I wouldn't know about bad heads. Plus I wouldn't use cast iron Vortec heads anyway but, that's another discussion. :biggrin:

So, what are you talking about the "oil clearances and tolerances"?

So,
 

rebelyell

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begin with a JY core L31 Vortec 350 that's chosen (in part) because it has no tell-tale signs of overheating; build that core, thereby supporting your local auto machine shop.
If ya don't support em, they won't be there when ya need one.

food for thought: with TWO glaring exceptions, the big name engine rebuilders' warrantees are Not enforceable via Your local Courts; you'd have to file suit in the manufacturers' State of Incorporation (that's also addressed in downloadable BPE warranty) --- and that's prohibitively expensive.
TWO glaring exceptions:
1) you reside in the same State as where the remanufacturer/rebuilder is located, or
2) you buy a GM motor; as GM has a physical presence in All 50 States and throughout Canada.

if ya really wanna verify above warranty-jurisdictions advice, ask Your local attorney; but ask Before ya commit to anything.

* ? and truly, do bulk of those BPE/ATK/Jasper/Marshall etc ratings come from experienced persons who personally & routinely build/rebuild motors ? --- or from those who do not have intimate knowledge of what's a "good" build ? --- or from those who're routinely in business of showcasing their co-sponsors' products ?

Good luck with your build.
 
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