1995 k1500 5.7 wont crank please help!

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Abellmichael

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Hey guys I have a 1995 chevy 1500 , engine and trans has less than 50k miles but my transfer case was leaking so it was sitting for a little while I didnt wanna drive it and mess it up. Well today i started it and let it run and charge up etc. I put in in drive to pull it back in the garage and it made a small grind noise and shut off. I tries to crank it by key and no turn so i put a ratchet and socket on the crank and no turn. Could something in my transfer case have locked up that would stop it from cranking? It was idling fine for 20 minutes sounded perfect then this happened. Any suggestions would be appreciated this truck is very sentimental to me I hate seeing it not running right. It has the np241c transfer case. Thanks for any help in advance.
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Abellmichael

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I put the transfer case in neutral just a little bit ago and it did the same thing. Im puzzled.
 

Schurkey

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Even if the transfer case is locked-up, the torque converter wouldn't be--so the crankshaft should still turn. In "Park", the pawl locks the trans output shaft, but the engine can still be started.

Or kick the clutch pedal in. Either way, the engine is free from the rest of the drivetrain.

MAYBE if the torque converter clutch is stuck "on", but I'd think that would be really unusual.

Are you SURE the crank won't turn? I'd want a long-handle ratchet because the typical short-handle 1/2" drive ratchet wouldn't be near long enough for me to turn the crank. Maybe you're way stronger than me.

Take the serpentine belt off.

I had an alternator lock-up on my '88 when I shut it off to get gas. Starter wasn't powerful enough to crank the engine until I popped the belt off--which meant I could run the truck long enough to move away from the gas pump. Of course, with no water pump or power steering, I didn't go too far.

I also had a Trailblazer that broke the A/C compressor bearing. Again, wouldn't start until the belt broke. Same deal--no PS, no water pump, couldn't drive very far.
 

Abellmichael

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Thanks for the help I will pop the belt off tomorrow night after work and try it out. At this point im willing to try anything.
 

Schurkey

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That alternator have a steel-blade fan on the front?

I don't remember when GM switched from the failure-prone CS130 (fan on the front) to the far-more-reliable CS130D (fan internal, not easily seen.)

The CS130 with the external fan is/was a disaster. Lots of output in a small package--that overheated the rear bearing in particular, everything in general, and then failed spectacularly as you've seen.

I think the aftermarket rebuilds them better than GM made 'em; and there's aftermarket rear housings that have bigger heat-sink and (I think) a bigger bearing. Opinions are mixed. A QUALITY rebuilt is all that I've ever used. The one I have has been on there for ~10 years. Seems to be a "keeper".
 

PlayingWithTBI

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A QUALITY rebuilt is all that I've ever used. The one I have has been on there for ~10 years. Seems to be a "keeper".
Mine was rebuilt by Ag Electric in Los Banos CA when we lived there before 2002 when we moved to Merced. I'm not gonna touch it until it flames out, no matter how ugly it looks :waytogo:

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HotWheelsBurban

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That is a seriously F d up bearing! I worked in an auto parts store for 9 years and never saw one that bad. And the first 5 years were at a store in Houston that had a bunch of garage customers
(this was back in the late 70s to early 80s when Houston was booming with oil money).
 
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