1994 5.7 TBI installing Harmonic balancer, crankshaft balancer, vibration dampener etc

[scott2093]

I remove the damper bolt and bigass washer. Set the washer aside, put the bolt with no washer back into the crank. Then the puller pressure screw pushes on the hardened head of the bolt instead of the cast-iron surrounding the threaded hole.

I didn't do this...
I'm going to try it. So you leave the crank bolt a little loose and the balancer pulls to it? Guessing there's not room to get a wrench on that crank bolt to leverage while using the puller?

edit/////guess I don't have the right sets of bolts... They're too short if I leave the crank bolt in... Have to grab some tomorrow I guess....
Here's a pic from video I saw...This is kinda what I'm thinking to remove this thing...

 

[Schurkey]

If you're removing the damper from the crank, depending on your puller style, you could cram a pry-bar between the legs. The pry-bar wedges against the floor or frame or whatever, so that the damper can be pulled off the crank snout.

 

[scott2093]

depending on your puller style

it's like this one from another thread.....
What are the "legs"?
I was under the impression that any restriction of the puller (i.e prying )would work against it? But I don't think things through...

 

[Schurkey]

3 longer bolts into the damper, poke the pry bar between any two. Pry-bar is captured between the damper and the body of the puller, while acting on the two bolts it's wedged against. The pry-bar prevents the damper from turning while the force on the center screw against the crank bolt (NO BIGASS WASHER) pulls the damper from the snout.

 

[scott2093]

3 longer bolts into the damper, poke the pry bar between any two

That's what I was thinking. Just wasn't sure if it would keep the balancer from pulling out if the bolts were jammed like that...
Still need to get longer bolts. The kit only has short ones...Unless I ditch the crank bolt idea.... there may be enough room...

edit////I got it... makes sense about the bolts now. I think I was thinking of if something was jammed against the balancer at the same time as the bolts.....
Thank you!
I just used the flat end on the puller instead of the cone so I could use the bolts I had..... Hopefully it'll be ok that I didn't use the crank bolt...
My impatience has gotten the better of me in the past....

 

[Schurkey]

If the puller isn't forcing on the crank bolt, you risk screwing-up the snout of the crank--damaging the female threads for the damper bolt, primarily. The whole point of the bolt is to prevent the puller forcing screw from damaging the crank.

Therefore, screw the damper bolt WITHOUT THE WASHER nearly all the way into the crank.

 

[scott2093]

If the puller isn't forcing on the crank bolt, you risk screwing-up the snout of the crank--damaging the female threads for the damper bolt, primarily.

It looks ok afaik. The flat attachment of the puller forcing screw doesn't fit inside. It is just a bit larger in diameter than the crank bolt head..

 

[scott2093]

Bolt and bigass washer go in and get torqued to spec, which can be "interesting" especially with an automatic transmission. A manual trans can be put into high gear, and the wheels chocked, then the bolt tightens into a more-or-less locked-up crankshaft that can't turn without driving the car forward. With an automatic, you've sometimes got to get a "special tool" or a vice-grip or something to jam the flexplate to keep the crank from turning.

My manual is a little confusing. It seems like it's saying to install the drive pulley on top of the crank bolt washer (bolt would fit in pulley hole....but that puts me way out and the timing gauge would surely stick over the balancer if it were pushed in that far... it's good now with drive pulley being installed first then crank washer and bolt.....besides, it can't go any further ...at least I hope...
Guessing an oversight or I'm misunderstanding the instructions? Guess they assume you should know what they mean...

 

[Schurkey]

Install the damper. Fully. Totally. Including the bolt and bigass washer, AFTER the damper has been pushed into place with the installation tool--because if you try to use the bolt and bigass washer to push it into place, you'll tear out the threads in the front of the crank snout. The damper goes in until it stops--butted up against the crankshaft sensor reluctor, or the crankshaft timing gear, depending on engine. Then install bolt and washer, torque to spec.

When the damper is TOTALLY INSTALLED, bolt on the pulley and the rest of the stuff.

 

[scott2093]

Install the damper. Fully. Totally. Including the bolt and bigass washer, AFTER the damper has been pushed into place with the installation tool--because if you try to use the bolt and bigass washer to push it into place, you'll tear out the threads in the front of the crank snout. The damper goes in until it stops--butted up against the crankshaft sensor reluctor, or the crankshaft timing gear, depending on engine. Then install bolt and washer, torque to spec.

When the damper is TOTALLY INSTALLED, bolt on the pulley and the rest of the stuff.

Yes I did that.///but the pulley has to go on before the crank bolt and washer??? If I did it on top, the pulley would stick out too far. If the damper could go in far enough for that not to happen, it would disappear under the timing gauge. But it won't go in any farther afaik...

Unfortunately, unless I don't know how this stuff works, I'm getting major movement on the inside of the damper. The outside is stable..
The Dorman I replaced with this questionable AC Delco didn't even wobble this much ....although it did wobble on the outside ring which was what prompted me to change it out.

May want to mute video...

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media