1984 350 block with vortec heads

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centex14

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Bought an 84 k5 blazer that's got a rebuilt 350 in it that's been bored 60 over with an RV cam and flat tappet. I've got a set of vortec heads from a 97 half ton Chevy sitting around. Would it be worth it in terms of power to have the heads gone through (decked, new valve guides, cleaned up) and install them? Truck is running an Edelbrock carb and soon long tube headers. I know I'll need self aligning rockers or guide plates for the pushrods and screw in rocker studs and a new intake manifold that matches the vortec bolt pattern. Thoughts?
 

Schurkey

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Sorry about the Edelbrock carb--I assume it's one of the Carter Clones, not one of their discontinued Q-Jet versions. You'll need to tune the ignition advance for reduced centrifugal and vacuum advance, the "fast burn" chambers won't need or want as much advance as the crappy old heads require.

If you use guideplates, you MUST buy hardened pushrods. Self-aligning rockers won't be a problem though.

If they were my heads, I'd pull them apart, run a straightedge across them looking for warpage. I'd look for guide wear, seat wear, valve-tip and valve stem wear, etc. I'd lap the valves/seats with 400 grit lapping compound, check the castings for cracks. Look over the valve springs with a proper Carpenter's square. Then put the whole works together with fresh valve seals and lube on the valve stems.

If you have to haul them to a machine shop for "serious" work, things are going to get more expensive than I'd be comfortable with. By the time you pay for a proper valve job with guides, plane the deck, trim the guides for high-lift camshaft, etc; you might as well buy aluminum heads.

Or, for that matter, I have a pair of EngineQuest iron castings; Vortec chamber and ports but the old-style 6-bolt intake manifold flange pattern. Zero miles on castings and valves/springs/seals, etc. $600 plus shipping. Given that these are iron castings, shipping will be pricy.--I haven't looked, but I suppose $75-ish. I bought 'em, then went with aluminum Trick Flow heads for my project.
 

centex14

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Heads have over a 100k miles on them which is why I wanted to take them to a machine shop to have them looked over. I'm not planning a cam right now. It's got an RV cam in it currently. I don't mind spending a few hundred bucks on them to make sure they are solid.

So either hardened pushrods and guide plates or self aligning rockers? Not both?
 
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Guide plates rub on the pushrod, so hardened pushrods are required. Self aligning rockers are aligned by the valve tip, if you run guide plates with self aligning rockers you could run into a binding issue.
 
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And with an rv cam you will likely be ok with the heads as is no screw in studs or machining required. To keep it cheap i would check the heads over as described above, and replace the springs with ls6 style springs for more available retainer to seal clearance.
 

centex14

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So self aligning rockers, ls6 springs, valve lap, check for warpage, new valve seals, new intake manifold, and away we go. Seems to easy.
 

centex14

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Do I even need springs with the RV cam? I'd think the stock vortec springs would work just fine and it would save me $80.
 

Caspian

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Do I even need springs with the RV cam? I'd think the stock vortec springs would work just fine and it would save me $80.

They won't handle above anywhere from .450" to .480" lift. They vary widely. I wanted to run a bigger roller cam in my 350 but I've gotta get a guide cutter, ls6 springs, comp retainers and such to be able to safely handle the .520" max lift I was gonna have. If you know the specs on the cam that'd help, if not, you'll want the LS6 springs and the comp retainers as a fail safe, or ghetto grind the factory retainers.
 

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They won't handle above anywhere from .450" to .480" lift. They vary widely. I wanted to run a bigger roller cam in my 350 but I've gotta get a guide cutter, ls6 springs, comp retainers and such to be able to safely handle the .520" max lift I was gonna have. If you know the specs on the cam that'd help, if not, you'll want the LS6 springs and the comp retainers as a fail safe, or ghetto grind the factory retainers.

I bought a Caprice TBI LO5 service replacement crate engine for my pickup. GM says the crappy swirl-port heads have
VALVE SPRING PART NUMBER IS 3911068 (SAME SPRING USED WITH THE OLD 300H.P 350 CRATE)

INSTALLED HEIGHT 1.70" PRESSURE @ INSTALLED HEIGHT IS 80 LBS * PRESSURE WITH VALVE OPEN IS 267 LBS.

THESE SPRINGS ARE GOOD FOR .550" LIFT BUT CLEARENCE BETWEEN GUIDE AND RETAINER MUST BE DOUBLE CHECKED BEFORE ATTEMPTING.
I'm sure you'd need guide work, but the springs and retainers themselves might be OK. The answer will be to have the springs tested to see what the Vortec engines come with--these springs, or something else.

Or show up in the Parts Department of your local Stealership, and ask what part number the Vortec springs are.
 
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centex14

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Best I can find for the RV cam is:

RPM range: 800-4200
duration: @ 0.050" 206/212
Lift w/ 1.5 rocker: .425/.440
LSA: 108*
 
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