14 Bolt SF Build

[the big blue bus]

how did you adjust the collar and figure what shims to use for the carrier? im about to regear the 14sf i got to 4.88 with a lock right. trying to do all my research while im still collecting the parts for it. do i only need to make set up bearings for the pinion since the carrier uses shims on one side and the collar?

 

[mr98z71]

Hi, The spanner nut is adjusted by tightening the nut after installing the carrier, then backing off the nut slightly, installing the caps and bolts hand tight, then turning the spanner nut until it contacts the bearing race on the carrier plus 3 slots. You Say that you are installing 4.88, are they Yukon gears? If so, I would try a 40 Shim on the pinion first and then going from there. I made up some set up bearings by grinding the 2 bearing insides just a little so they could be hand pressed on the pinion since I figured I would be pulling it out a few time (which I probably did over 50 times)!!

As far as the carrier shims, the factory Gm spacer was too big, I ended up using most of all the shims that the Yukon master overhaul kit came with (236 thou).

My patterns ended up looking kind of like this:

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[axisT6]

Good lookin' pattern man.

 

[mr98z71]

Yeah, I like the way that it turned out. Both my drive and coast sides are an in an oval shape and catered within the flank and root of the gear all while maintaining 7 thou backlash. I really appreciate you sharing all of your knowledge and helping me with my rebuild!

One thing you may want to take note of Big Blue, When you are doing the final install, once the crush sleeve has started to crush, any minor tightening of the nut will increase the pinion preload a lot. For example, I measure my preload and it was at 2" pound, I tightened the nut 1/8 of a turn and it went to 29" pound which is beyond spec. Needless to say, I had to take it all apart again and go buy a new crush sleeve from Gm for a whopping $30!

Jo-eL

 

[98chevyz71]

Looks good

 

[axisT6]

Yeah, I like the way that it turned out. Both my drive and coast sides are an in an oval shape and catered within the flank and root of the gear all while maintaining 7 thou backlash. I really appreciate you sharing all of your knowledge and helping me with my rebuild!

One thing you may want to take note of Big Blue, When you are doing the final install, once the crush sleeve has started to crush, any minor tightening of the nut will increase the pinion preload a lot. For example, I measure my preload and it was at 2" pound, I tightened the nut 1/8 of a turn and it went to 29" pound which is beyond spec. Needless to say, I had to take it all apart again and go buy a new crush sleeve from Gm for a whopping $30!

Jo-eL

Any time. I just didn't want you to have to take everything apart after getting the axle installed and driving on it.

Rule of thumb with crush sleeves is to carefully tighten the NEW pinion nut until there is no longer any axial play in the pinion i.e. the pinion bearings are seated in the races. Next, slowly apply just enough pressure on the breaker/cheater bar to get the nut to move. The INSTANT the nut moves, STOP, and measure pre-load.

 

[jps4jeep]

How did I miss this thread coming back... I guess you got it done.


regarding gear installs, you need to be a perfectionist. Rather invest my time to get it spot on than waste my money on a second set of gears. My first gear install took me probably 14 hours cummulatively (was a D30). I am not a mechanic by trade, but do 4-6 axles a year and I still take my candy ass time.

 

[the big blue bus]

have usa standard gears and got a motive install kit comming. got the axle all torn down today and didnt notice any shims on the pinion? do they go behind the bearings

 

[axisT6]

The shims are behind the inner pinion bearing.

 

[the big blue bus]

saw it when i pushed the pinion bearings off today. so i dont need to make carrier set up bearings? just both of the pinion ones correct? and did you use no crush sleve or the old one for set up?