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Wh4t3v3rs

I got real bass!!!!
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Since we are all Chevy/GMC people .....

Here's a little box I built for a 2021 Chevy Colorado ZR2. Two Memphis MB 8" in 1 cubic foot sealed, downward firing....

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Wh4t3v3rs

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I didn't get any pics of the mount. I am just using a piece of 2x4 box to tie the main hoop to the frame. But here's where it sits, and I super happy with it.

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Erik the Awful

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is the cage back far enough?
You want the cage as far away from your head as possible. Even if you're wearing an SA-rated helmet, if you hit that bar it's going to crush your helmet and your skull. If you have door bars and your arm happens to fling against it during a rollover, you will likely have shattered bone. Invest in serious high-density roll cage padding, and not just pool noodles. Put it everywhere that you might touch in a rollover. SFI 45.1 is a good rating to look for. If you can fit 1" thick, go with it. I'd sticky it on, and then put zip ties every foot.
www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/roll-bar-padding?N=sfi-rating%3Asfi-45-1&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

I am just using a piece of 2x4 box to tie the main hoop to the frame.
I don't fully understand that sentence without a picture. How many square inches of spreader plate do you have where the cage bolts down? In Lemons our requirement is "All spreader plates must be mild steel, at least 24 square inches, and at least .125” thick." Typically that's a 4x6 plate. Granted, these cages are typically welded to the thin sheetmetal of a monocoque, and you're welding to the frame, but know your organization's rules.

Sorry if it sounds like I'm being critical, but the next-to-last thing you want to do is show up to race and have the tech inspector toss you out. The very last thing is to pass inspection and get hurt.

If you want to see a serious case of rollbar fail, check out the cage sticking out the bottom of the car in this thread. The driver and passenger walked away, likely only because they were short. It's apparent after the fact that the builder wasn't very experienced. The throttle stuck on a 625hp motor, the cage punched through the floor, and they'd only fixed an improper belt mounting location the night before. Hopefully they're a lot more careful with the experience they gained.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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A lot depends on your size and driving position.

If I do a race truck, I'm having bars come out the back of the cab. It's functional and looks cool.
 

Erik the Awful

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If it's a true race truck, you can't avoid running the backstays out the back of the cab. They're necessary because they triangulate the halo, which brings up another good point about the cage. You're going to need backstays, they'll need to go out the back of the cab, and they'll likely need to each be one continuous piece of tubing with no cuts or welds in it. Resist the urge to do a downward bend at the end to connect it - that ruins the whole triangulation. They need to intersect the rear spreader plates at the same angle they leave the hoop with.
 
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