Wrench Wrecked-Correct Starter??

[Reega]

89 K1500 4L60 350
I had the flywheel replaced several years ago. Told it was an 85 block and flywheel
based on casting numbers. My starter is loud, not like any other GMT400 I have heard or any other vehicle for that matter. When I say starter, I mean the engagement and process of starting. It sounds like it doesn’t mesh properly, I’ve shimmed to no avail. What I currently run is a starter from a 69 Camaro, doesn’t make sense, wouldn’t that be a 153 tooth?? I’ve tried an 89 and 85 truck starter, but both created and interference sound(killing a cat) the 69 doesn’t sound right. It’s louder and more “physical” if that makes sense. The rest of the truck has wrench wreck I’ve been correcting, so I assume the same about the starter and flywheel. FYI-when the starter died I bought the truck with, we matched it based on the nose cone, closest we could find was a 69 Camaro....Any ideas at diagnostics? Feel like I’ll keep replacing flywheels the way I’m going. Thanks in advance.

 

[Schurkey]

Essentially two flywheels and two starter fitment types for Chevy V-8.

The 153 "small" ring gear typically takes an OEM starter nose with the bolts straight across.

The 168 "large" ring gear typically takes an OEM starter nose with the "offset" or "diagonal" bolt holes.

MOST blocks are drilled and tapped for both bolt patterns.

Aftermarket starters may have the bolt holes "straight across", but double-drilled (four holes) to suit both flywheel sizes.

ALL these starters need SPECIAL "starter bolts". They have a knurl just above the threads that's an interference-fit in the starter and the block.

"Mini" starters need different bolts from the bigass "10MT" direct-drive old-style starters. The shank is metric, the threads are standard SAE coarse.

ALL the big direct-drive starters need to be supported on the front, as well as the two special bolts at the nose cone end. There are various brackets that bolt between block and starter; some still available from GM brand-new.

I've seen some starters that needed a shim under only one of the two bolts, too. Seems like some starter nose-cones are either worn-out or poorly machined. Shimming doesn't seem to help, all you can do is replace it with another nose and hope for the best.

Of course, verify the teeth on the ring gear. They tend to wear in four places around the diameter.

I've seen folks assemble the flexplate backwards on the crank. That can move the teeth rearward a little bit.

A worn shift-fork on the starter drive does nobody any favors.

 

[Reega]

Thanks Schurkey