Wolf in sheep's clothing

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sewlow

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Lol! Yea! Messy stuff!
Here's a trick to get nice even stitching when doing a 'French' (double) stitch.
Don't look at the needle! A common mistake. It has a hypnotizing effect.
The feet of the machine are different widths so that you can use them as a measurement device.
Set the foot next to the center stitch at the width where you want those outer stitches to be at.
Don't look at what the needle is doing. It does the same thing over & over again. Up & down, up & down, up & down.
Concentrate on keeping that foot against that center stitch. Slow, steady sewing works better than short bursts. Even if you have to slow down to where the machine is practically doing one stitch at a time. Just maintain that foot in the position where you initially set it.
Short bursts, then stopping, followed by another short burst will cause deviations in that set width. Nice steady stitching will prevent that. With practice & confidence, you can increase the speed of your sewing.

On patterning. This has to be perfect! No matter how good of a job I do stitching, if the pattern is poop, the finished job will be poop!
When doing seats, I allow a 3/8" seam allowance when patterning, but then sew a 1/2" seam. This makes for a nice snug fit.
For a dash cover, I pattern those out with NO seam allowances, then sew a 3/8" seam. You can achieve this by using the various widths of the machine's feet.
A 'no-seam' pattern, then the 3/8" seam on dashes means that on the install of the cover has to have the crap stretched out of it. Very important on a dash due to being directly in the sun ALL the time. If the cover isn't really stretched on, it will loosen up as soon as it gets hot. More important when using vinyl than leather.
Vinyl has a stretch one way, but not the other. Pattern the pieces for the dash with the stretch going from side to side.
Mark the centerline of the dash, front to back, top to bottom (whatever) on the back of the dash. Fold the cover in 1/2 & make some small notches to indicate the center. This is the starting point to begin gluing the cover on. Once you do that, let it sit for a while to ensure that the glue really sets up at those center points. Then, stretch the cover out to the sides until everything lines up, & glue it down as described in my previous post.
Slow & steady works best!
There's never time to do it once, but there's always time to do it over!
 

Kuma

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^ Thank you! With my roommate in Europe I have no one to tell me what I'm doing wrong and how to improve it. Everyone else I know doesn't know anything about upholstery so they just say "looks good to me." Nail on the head with watching the needle lol, I'm so bad at that. I don't know how to slow my machine down, or get it to stop being so touchy... I've tried messing with the pedal linkage, but it didn't help. So I ended up doing MOST of the visible stitches by hand cranking the machine. I appreciate all the advice you give more than you know.
 

sewlow

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NP on the help! Don't mind a bit. I had some great people I worked with over the years instruct me on anything I ever wanted to know.
Other's would protect their knowledge as if it should be in a locked vault. To what benefit? No idea why. They took all that knowledge with them when they passed. Such a loss.

Controlling the speed of the machine comes with practice. Grab a bunch of scraps & sew 'em together. Do a top stitch, a French stitch, try using different parts of the foot as a measurement until you find what does what. Practice going slow, then work up to a speed your comfortable with.
Most machines rev @ 1750 rpm with a 1/4 horse motor. My big one can hit 3500 with it's 3/4 horse. I've had women with 20 years industrial sewing experience just about fly over backwards when they hit the 'GO' pedal on that one! Scares the crap outa them! I used it daily for 25 years. Because of that, I can run it wide open for hours! Don't even think twice about it.
There's times too, where the faster you go, the better. Such as sewing straight lines for pleats. Draw the thinnest lines with chalk that's possible. (There's a way to sharpen chalk to get skinny lines. Not in the shop right now, but if you want, I could do a short vid on that.)
At speed, any deviations off of that skinny line is spread out over a greater distance, making them less noticeable.
For as long as I've done this, if I'm tired, I STILL have to remind myself to stop staring at the needle!
"You're getting sleepy. Very sleepy."
(To self...) Stop staring at the needle! Lol!
 

Kuma

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Most definitely would appreciate vids. I want to learn everything I can, but know so little I'm not sure where to start. I know how to operate the machine, but that's about it lol. I've switched from chalk to tape for straight lines. I know it ruins the needle if it hits the tape, but I've yet to hit the tape and I have like 20 spare needles atm. I've just got a tacsew t111-155 with a 3/4 IIRC. I know it's not the best, but it hasn't broke on me or my roommate (the owner), just needed to have someone come calibrate it twice so far in 6-7years.


IDK if I mentioned this before, but when pulling tape off one of my wheels it ripped the pattern off. I think it was because the tape was on them for 3 weeks waiting for clear on the lips. My buddy that cleared them said it was because sir dried rattle can products suck. Either way, this is what it looked like.
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So I sanded it back down for 3-4hours and primed them last night. Should be getting my hydrographics film today. Then I'll redo the base with yet another silver and then redip and reclear. Hopefully the black doesn't come off with the tape this time lol. Starting to think my thread should be called "Do it right the first time or life will be rough"

It's silver. Got my hydrographics kit today and my water temp and oil pressure stuff. Hopefully dipping tomorrow. Still need to get the tank from my neighbor.
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Kuma

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It took about an hour and a half to get the tank full, temp to 75*F, tape boarder measured to 30"x22" in the tank and film cut out to 28"x20". Film is only 19" wide, but the tape overhangs a half inch on both sides. I probably could have used less than 28" of film, but you have to go in at a bit of an angle and I like to have some extra in case a corner distorts or an air bubble I didn't catch comes through the film.

After you make a tape boarder, cut slits in the corners and the middle of all 4 sides so the pattern can expand a little. Without a tape boarder the film usually rolls up as soon as it hits the water... If you're lucky enough for it not to roll up it will distort every which way as soon as you hit it with activator. I plan on trying a different company next time because I have seen videos of people not having to use tape boarders. The only reason I haven't tried another company yet is because I didn't want to deal with using a paint gun to spray the activator.... rattle can is just too convenient.
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An hour or more to fill it up and get it to the right temperature just to have to drain it for every dip.
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Too bad I didn't get the pattern to climb the big lips perfectly the first 4 times... Wouldn't have used black paint.
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Then I let it dry for about 4-5 hours in the sun... You can't really see the pattern except on the tape because I used another silver that is too light.
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Then clear
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Then I peeled the tape off all excited that it looks good just to find out my tape line is ridiculously obvious. I could rub it with compound but I honestly don't care enough to rub it and possibly it up again. from 5ft away it's hardly noticable.
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Then let it sit in the sun all day
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Calling my used tire guy Monday to see if he still has the 285/35/18 contisports for the rears... Then I'll need to find some 235 or 245's for the fronts.
 

Kuma

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Firewall hammered. Hopefully it's hammered enough. Engine and transmission need to go in together, so I don't want to have to pull it back out because it isn't hmmered enough.
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Torchred

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How do you make a shift knob like that? It looks sweet. I'm thinking of doing an LS 240 (Probably an S13 coupe) after I finish the Mustang swap I'm starting to dive into.
 

Kuma

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Polyester resin. A lot of manufacturers of clear shift knobs use acrylic resin, but I like polyester because it is more dense. I'm actually probably going to start 2 more tonight with dice instead of bugs. You can find molds online or make your own out of silicone.

A s13 coupe would be cool, but verts are the best when done right. If I build another one for me it will be a vert... But an ideal car for my next build would be a mid 90's rx7 or supra.

So I finally got started on this thing.
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Had some time to kill while making a couple dice shift knobs. Kuma is Japanese for bear.
 
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Kuma

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Going to have to pull the fenders and run spacers.
Rear lower control arm clearance.
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No pics of the coilover clearance, but it touches when I jump in the trunk. The front wheels wont even spin freely because they are hitting the springs.
 

Kuma

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Pulled the fenders
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Did a seat for a rich old guy with a lot of hotrods.
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Next to the truck.
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Botched a couple shift knobs, going to try a different resin next time.
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Did some more sanding on my speakerbox.
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