Will someone help me interpret my TunerPro output so I know if I should load the parts cannon?

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PlayingWithTBI

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If I drove the truck regularly/ wasn’t so lazy I’d put a permanent gage by TBI like playwtbi and others have done.
Yeah, I did that when I was tuning my new build with the EBL. I'd drive around and look at my VE tables. If Pulse Width got too high or low, I'd adjust pressure a little to get it right. I even tried 74LB/HR 454 injectors at 15 PSI with an 18LB spring, and 61LB/HR ones up to 28PSI with a 28PSI one. It just made it easier that way.
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L31MaxExpress

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I always blocked off the regulator in the TBI with a block off plate and ran an external bypass style EFI regulator. I blocked off the return port at the TBI like the marine TBIs as well. All 3 parts were common to TBI marine engines. Much easier to dial in the pressure and the pressure was more stable since the adjustable regulators have a larger diaghram that acts as an accumulator or pulsator. It also kept heat out of the fuel system, having one insulated feed line to the TBI rather than a feed and return line running over the top of the engine.
 

MIHELA

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You claim it smells rich, keep in mind that a very rich mixture can actually show up as a false lean to an oxygen sensor. Have you checked any plugs to verify the mixture?
 

Supercharged111

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I thought I saw that it was lean in the output also! I'm glad I'm not going crazy. It absolutely doesn't smell lean...I wonder if the O2 sensor is shot.

What do you think lean should smell like? I never dreamed I'd be staying this twice in a day. Lean stinks. Whenever folks get a whiff of exhaust, any stink gets labelled as rich and that's just not always true. Make a mental note of the smell it makes as it'll aid future troubleshooting efforts.
 

L31MaxExpress

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What do you think lean should smell like? I never dreamed I'd be staying this twice in a day. Lean stinks. Whenever folks get a whiff of exhaust, any stink gets labelled as rich and that's just not always true. Make a mental note of the smell it makes as it'll aid future troubleshooting efforts.

I agree! Lean smells richer than rich does especially without cats. Rich actually has very little smell until it is nearly blowing grey smoke. I have a Briggs flathead 5hp on a Tiller that will burn your eyes with a nasty unburned fuel smell and I know the thing is lean as can be and always has been since it was new. It was a later 90s model and jetted lean for the EPA from day 1. I usually pull the choke closed about 1/4 of the way to richen it up enough so that it actually has power to till the soil. That is how that unit has always been run. I even replaced the carb on it a few years ago and it is also just as leanly calibrated. The plug does not get a spec of black soot on it if you run it with the choke wide open and it absolutely makes your eyes and sinuses burn from all the lean partial misfiring.
 

Schurkey

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I have a Briggs flathead 5hp on a Tiller that will burn your eyes with a nasty unburned fuel smell... ...it absolutely makes your eyes and sinuses burn from all the lean partial misfiring.
I've harped on misfire, but you bring up a valid point. Incomplete combustion of various sorts. It's still "misfire" but "misfire" is kind of a sliding scale from light, to mild, to total.




"Rich smell" and "eye burning fumes" are all a result of hydrocarbon emissions. It's the hot gasoline vapor coming off the tailpipe--or worse, out of the exhaust system rust-holes--that causes the eye-watering and "rich smell".

It doesn't matter if the fuel mixture ratio is too rich to burn properly, or too lean to burn properly. ANYTHING--too rich, too lean, lack of compression, lack of, or improperly-timed spark, etc., that causes outright misfire, or incomplete combustion, provides that "rich smell" to the proportion of fuel not burned completely.

"Gasoline" is essentially hydrogen + carbon = hydrocarbon. When it's fuel for an engine, it's called hydrocarbon. When it's fuel for our bodies, it's a yummy carbohydrate. Go figure.

The hydrogen (H) readily combines with oxygen (O2) in the air to produce water vapor--H2O. The carbon (C) combines with oxygen in the air to produce Carbon Monoxide (CO). It has to combine with MORE oxygen to reduce to Carbon Dioxide (CO2). So the first thing that happens with a rich mixture is the CO goes out-of-sight because there's not enough oxygen to convert CO to CO2. Even in ancient times (1960s) "Tune-Up" shops had a CO sniffer to determine idle rich-lean. When the idle CO was within limits, the idle mixture screws were assumed to be reasonably correct.

Misfire (or partial misfire) means that some or all of the hydrogen doesn't get a chance to split from the carbon in the hydrocarbon fuel. The raw hydrocarbon blows out the tailpipe (or rust holes) and produces that eye-watering fume.

OK, there's more to fuel-burning and emission testing than (evil) HC, CO, and (not-evil but politically-incorrect) water vapor, and CO2. Vehicles now monitor O2 in the exhaust to determine rich-lean; and we haven't touched on the nitrogen (N) (80% of air) combining with various amounts of oxygen at high temperature to produce NOx.

A FUNCTIONING catalytic converter "converts" small amounts of HC and CO to their non-poisonous forms--water vapor, and CO2. Too much HC in the exhaust stream will overheat or poison the converter, and then even the little bit of HC from a normal-running engine will smell "rich" to folks now. (Sixty years ago, it was so normal and common that no-one noticed.)

Fancy catalytic converter will also help remove NOx from the exhaust, but not all vehicles are equipped with that sort of catalyst.
 
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ninety1500

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These are all so helpful thank you! The computer is showing lean, and I have learned from y'all that lean can still have an exhaust smell. I always thought that exhaust smell that smells like the local drag strip was running rich. I have ordered some parts and I haven't put anything on because I needed a new battery for an old laptop and I finally pulled the trigger on that. So now as I do maintenance on the truck I can compare the computer data. I bought a new fuel filter because I am sure it hasn't been changed in a while. I'm going to start with that part to see if I notice any kind of a difference and then I'll have to check fuel pressure if that doesn't seem to improve anything. I'm working my way to the typical tune up parts also so I'll be able to look at the plugs and see what color they are and hopefully get the EXACT cause of what's going on...and most importantly get her running reliably!
 
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