weathered side moldings

[oilspot]

The little (Plastic) chrome strip on the tops of the side and bumper moldings on my truck has discolored, burnt, and is peeling on my truck. So I'm looking at options. I may just remove it alltogether, but Keeping it really kinda fits the look I'm going for in the longrun. (5/7, stock steelies & caps)

Options. How much is it to replace the molding alltogether. I'm sure I could look around and find a cheap replacement, but this molding looks like something that a cheap replacement would... well, look cheap.

I've considered scuffing it all down and painting it all black. Again, I'm kinda worried that may look worse that just leaving it.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I have the same thing going on with my 88 C1500 Silverado, I'm interested in what other folks say...

 

[delta_p]

LMCtruck.com sells either precut molding or rolls of molding in black or with the chrome. Don't remember the cost but the precut side molding worked great for my reg cab 96. They also sell the bumper molding and hardware too.
Easiest method for the side is to heat and pull off carefully as not to pull paint off. then clean up the residue and restick the new.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

LMCtruck.com sells either precut molding or rolls of molding in black or with the chrome. Don't remember the cost but the precut side molding worked great for my reg cab 96

I looked it up and saw the "Note: Door emblems cannot be attached to side molding." What did you do with your emblem? I seem to remember a thread here somewhere in which they were discussing how to put the emblem back on?

https://www.lmctruck.com/1988-98-ch...-98-body-side-molding-and-door-edge-guard-set

 

[someotherguy]

The chrome strip can be removed if you're careful, and the remaining all-black molding doesn't look weird without it.

The factory molding has holes with little metal retaining rings for the emblems; replacement molding won't have that so you're left with cutting the pegs off the back of the emblems and attaching them with tape - 3M VHB would work (the gray super strong stuff.)

Highly recommend the 3M Stripe-Off wheel for removing the old tape residue. If you follow the directions and keep RPM's under max (2400 IIRC) and let it cool off a little every now and then, it works like a champ. Did my whole extended cab with it and had enough wheel leftover to do several more smaller jobs. It is not recommended for lacquer paint jobs (I guess it burns the paint) and SOME early GMT400's I think had lacquer if they were solid colors, so check your SPID label.

I started under the edge with a -plastic- putty knife then once I had enough lifted I grabbed the edge with vise grips and slowly pulled the molding off. Zero paint loss.

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Richard

 

[Awest623]

You can order it on Amazon cheaper than LMC. Comes in rolls that you have to cut yourself. Grab a tape measure and be sure to buy extra in case you mess up or the roll ends in a bad spot. I've had it on my truck for about 2 years now and it still looks brand new. With the uncut rolls you can extend the trim all the way to the edges of the panels, I think it looks better that way.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLVES0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_BKlOEbGPBZB9V

First pic is right after I applied it and second is how it it looks now.

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[Awest623]

The chrome strip can be removed if you're careful, and the remaining all-black molding doesn't look weird without it.

The factory molding has holes with little metal retaining rings for the emblems; replacement molding won't have that so you're left with cutting the pegs off the back of the emblems and attaching them with tape - 3M VHB would work (the gray super strong stuff.)

Highly recommend the 3M Stripe-Off wheel for removing the old tape residue. If you follow the directions and keep RPM's under max (2400 IIRC) and let it cool off a little every now and then, it works like a champ. Did my whole extended cab with it and had enough wheel leftover to do several more smaller jobs. It is not recommended for lacquer paint jobs (I guess it burns the paint) and SOME early GMT400's I think had lacquer if they were solid colors, so check your SPID label.

I started under the edge with a -plastic- putty knife then once I had enough lifted I grabbed the edge with vise grips and slowly pulled the molding off. Zero paint loss.

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Richard

Just to add to this. Be careful pulling it. I did rip a little paint off when I pulled mine. Didn't matter to me cuz the I was sanding and putting bedliner under the body line.

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[PlayingWithTBI]

You can order it on Amazon cheaper than LMC.

That is quite a bit cheaper, thanks! Did you heat it up while pulling the old strip?

 

[Awest623]

That is quite a bit cheaper, thanks! Did you heat it up while pulling the old strip?

No. But that'd probably help prevent paint loss. I was putting bedliner on the rocker panels so didn't care if it pulled paint off.

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[delta_p]

I looked it up and saw the "Note: Door emblems cannot be attached to side molding." What did you do with your emblem? I seem to remember a thread here somewhere in which they were discussing how to put the emblem back on?

https://www.lmctruck.com/1988-98-ch...-98-body-side-molding-and-door-edge-guard-set

I put new emblem but up on the door like the '02 did i think.
https://www.gmt400.com/media/9677post.31930/

I remember now after I got the old molding off and there was the sticky residue left, I used a small piece of fuel hose to save my fingernails while I lightly heated and rolled up the sticky down the length. I wish I would've had that gum wheel someotherguy said.