Towing helper air bags and travel

[RichLo]

How many times do you rent that trailer per year? I've had to rent one like that twice in that past year and thats enough to make me consider just buying a used lowboy, lol.

 

[Supercharged111]

Those U-Haul trailers are pretty light, with a 3000# or less track car it's not enough to necessitate a WD hitch. Yes it will still pull better with WD, but it's not going to cause issues being at or under 5000# without WD. What can cause problems is pulling the car all the way forward and using the tire straps that they include on the trailer. I towed my friend's Terminator on a U-Haul trailer earlier this year and it squatted the truck too much pulling all the way forward. His F350 dually didn't mind, but my 1500 in sig wasn't thrilled about it. So I backed it just behind the U-Haul provided front wheel hold downs and the truck balanced out much better, towed like a dream. This may be all OP needs to do. We used regular ratchet straps to hold it all down.

 

[Feintmotion86]

the attachment point for most of the WD hitches I've seen don't come close to being able to mount to the Uhaul trailer. There's at least 2-3 feet of straight section where the braking mechanism rests before it splits into the A-frame area.

I rent the trailer about 6-10 times a year. I don't have a place to stow a trailer.

Supercharged111, I'd never even thought about moving the car back a little. I know its not how the trailer was designed to mount the vehicle, but a trailer is a trailer, and moving it back a bit might help a bunch.

 

[Supercharged111]

the attachment point for most of the WD hitches I've seen don't come close to being able to mount to the Uhaul trailer. There's at least 2-3 feet of straight section where the braking mechanism rests before it splits into the A-frame area.

I rent the trailer about 6-10 times a year. I don't have a place to stow a trailer.

Supercharged111, I'd never even thought about moving the car back a little. I know its not how the trailer was designed to mount the vehicle, but a trailer is a trailer, and moving it back a bit might help a bunch.

The trailers have enough tie downs to put a car where it belongs.

 

[Feintmotion86]

You all have been a huge help, gave me great suggestions and food for thought.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Those U-Haul trailers are pretty light, with a 3000# or less track car it's not enough to necessitate a WD hitch. Yes it will still pull better with WD, but it's not going to cause issues being at or under 5000# without WD. What can cause problems is pulling the car all the way forward and using the tire straps that they include on the trailer. I towed my friend's Terminator on a U-Haul trailer earlier this year and it squatted the truck too much pulling all the way forward. His F350 dually didn't mind, but my 1500 in sig wasn't thrilled about it. So I backed it just behind the U-Haul provided front wheel hold downs and the truck balanced out much better, towed like a dream. This may be all OP needs to do. We used regular ratchet straps to hold it all down.

This. All of it. How and where you load your cargo is EVERYTHING!
I've had a class A CDL for close to 20 years now, and have pulled a thing or two...

 

[Erik the Awful]

The U-Haul trailers also use a surge brake, and a WD hitch interferes with the surge function.

We had two cars at the track this last weekend. The SN95 Mustang was towed with a U-Haul trailer behind a Ford F-150, and it was pulled all the way onto the trailer. With tools in the bed of the truck and the car on the trailer, it had a bit of sag. We never thought about mounting it further back. The E36 BMW was towed on an open-deck car hauler with a GMT900 Suburban with very little in the back. It sagged significantly. Our team owner couldn't find the bars for the WD hitch. I drove it most of the way, and above 75 mph it would sway and push the truck around. On the way back we parked the car about six inches further back over the axles and it helped.