UCA hitting frame at full travel

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1994c2500

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Hello all.

I am at the end of my rope and could really use some help.

1994 C2500 8 lug (rwd)

Recently got the truck.. last guy did a coil spacer in the front (providing 3” of lift) and add-a-leaf in the back. He did not change any of the struts. Back suspension geometry is fine. In the front, when the tires are in the air, the spot where the upper control arm/ball joint meets the spindle contacts the frame at full downward extension. you can see this shiny spot on the frame in the photo. If I were to suddenly raise the front tires (like off of a jump) the UCA on both sides would instantly drop and smack the frame metal-on-metal instead of going around/outside of it.

Stock front struts are ~ 14.5 in compressed and 22.5 in extended. My first instinct is to find “longer shocks” (no luck so far though- finding ones that will work is a nightmare)- would shocks that were 3” longer in both their compressed and extended state fix the geometry and avoid contact at full droop? Is this a different issue? I cannot find any performance aftermarket suspension components for my exact truck (because its a bad starting platform for a long travel application to begin with) and I cant find people with the same truck/problem. lol. Thanks in advance I will do what I have to in order to keep the truck lifted and gain some travel for offroad applications.

If you guys want more pics ill get the truck in the air. Really need some help here haha ive exhausted myself and the internet

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Schurkey

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1994 C2500 8 lug (rwd)

coil spacer in the front (providing 3” of lift) and add-a-leaf in the back. He did not change any of the struts. Back suspension geometry is fine. In the front, when the tires are in the air, the spot where the upper control arm/ball joint meets the spindle contacts the frame at full downward extension.
You have shock absorbers, not struts.

Lift kits screw-up suspension geometry. Best bet is to scrap the lift.

you can see this shiny spot on the frame in the photo.
Not on my monitor.

If I were to suddenly raise the front tires (like off of a jump) the UCA on both sides would instantly drop and smack the frame metal-on-metal instead of going around/outside of it.
Don't go over jumps.

Stock front struts are ~ 14.5 in compressed and 22.5 in extended. My first instinct is to find “longer shocks” (no luck so far though- finding ones that will work is a nightmare)- would shocks that were 3” longer in both their compressed and extended state fix the geometry and avoid contact at full droop?
No. Your current shocks have more than enough extension to allow the upper control arm/steering knuckle to hit the frame. MORE extension cannot be used because the suspension is already at the limit of it's travel.

Is this a different issue?
Yes. Crappy "lift" engineering.

I cannot find any performance aftermarket suspension components for my exact truck (because its a bad starting platform for a long travel application to begin with)
Yes.

I will do what I have to in order to keep the truck lifted and gain some travel for offroad applications.
You need a different truck. There are folks on this forum that have lifted 2WD trucks. I don't understand the point.

At any rate, cramming a spacer onto the spring is no way to do that job. Different steering knuckles...maybe.
 

GoToGuy

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If you think your gonna survive taking your stock lifted truck over jumps, sure a few not high. As yours is lifted without the stronger engineering built-in, stock up on spares.
Where's the McPherson strut? I see upper and lower A arms.
 

1994c2500

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here it is in the air with the uca/ball joint contacting frame. shouldve known people would just say to sell it lol. looks like the uca and ball joint angle is the problem at the moment. im either going to scrap the coil spacer and go for a spindle lift or buy the extended upper arms to try and fix uca geometry/angle. just want to have somewhat normal suspension travel.. and when I say “jump” I mean they will smack the frame if I hit a tall speed bump too fast.. lol. want to be able to drive on bumpy dirt roads.
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GoToGuy

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It appears one modification was made, without all the adjoining affected parts. Having the captured ball joints , the tie rods and upper lower ball, operating at extreme angles. The possibility of them popping or blowing out of the socket would be a very bad day.
 

Orpedcrow

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Spring spacers are not the answer :superhack:

Spindles and control arms minimum.

I THINK I saw some mid-travel kits, or at least someone was building/designing one for our trucks.
 
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