Tortsion bars question

[McBroom]

Ive got a 91 K1500,
The screws on my tortion bars is missing. The front end looks as if it's been lowered.
What's the easiest and best way to get it back up to the proper ride height/level and get the the right pressure on them?
I'm also planning on putting new torque keys on it also.
I also thinking 3-4" of lift.
So what's the best route to take to achieve what I'm looking for?
Bew shocks will also be going in all the way around.
All advice and help is really appreciated.
TIA

The Blue Mule

 

[454cid]

Why do you want new keys? Just get some bolts the appropriate size (grade 10.9) to adjust the current keys....I'd guess they're a metric thread. I want to say they're about 4" long, but it's been about 10 years since I've had mine out. Length won't be critical any way.

No idea on the lift.

 

[McBroom]

I've seen keys that say 3" lift on them but idk if that means will lift 3" or to be used with a 3" lift.
I'm planning on putting a lift kit on so I can run 37's. Probably 4"
But for the time being I just need it back up where it was originally.

The Blue Mule

 

[454cid]

I've seen keys that say 3" lift on them but idk if that means will lift 3" or to be used with a 3" lift.

That's not happening on the GMT-400. The stock keys will put the suspension on the bump stops if you crank them enough.... and you don't want to do that, as the lack of downward travel will make the truck ride like garbage, and put your CV joints at terrible angles.

 

[Supercharged111]

Been there done that. I think I cranked 1.5 or 2 inches up front to be where I am now which works fine on my 1500. I made sure to leave some down travel because damn did the truck ride like **** with a full crank! I did that on accident years ago when I cranked the first time with the truck in the driveway pointed downhill. Whoops.

 

[Andy1955]

Somewhere on this site is the factory instructions for how to adjust those, I stumbled upon it once, not sure how to find it again.

 

[df2x4]

Somewhere on this site is the factory instructions for how to adjust those, I stumbled upon it once, not sure how to find it again.

The term is Z-height. This may be the thread you're thinking of. The same info can probably be found in any of the factory service manuals.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/z-height-stock-torsion-bar-setting.36391/

 

[Ehall8702]

I cranked my bars wide open to see how far it'll go. Will give 3" lift, rides like **** but will clear 35s unless u get in real twisty terrain. So I'm gonna get roasted for saying this, but I backed my bars down a little from full crank , cut almost an inch off my bump stops, welded a new plate across top of modified bump stops , longer front shocks and bought a diff drop, added 3" blocks in the rear along with ac Delco air shocks. Doesn't ride much different from my stock 98 Yukon ( a little rougher because of the 12ply tires) . Haven't put the diff drop on since I can't see enuff bad angle on CV axles to warrant the work to put it in. Even hanging on my hoist the angles aren't bad at all, im always jamming on it in 4x4 in the feet of snow we have here and no problems yet. I have spare axles so when I do break one I'll put the drop in then. Also just did a 3" body lift so I'm finally where I want it to be. This pic is with my cut 34.5 x 10.50s I use for winter, mud tires don't do well in the snow.

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[Ehall8702]

I've seen keys that say 3" lift on them but idk if that means will lift 3" or to be used with a 3" lift.
I'm planning on putting a lift kit on so I can run 37's. Probably 4"
But for the time being I just need it back up where it was originally.

The Blue Mule

If ur gonna lift and run 37s ur gonna need atleast a 4/6 lift and gears. I'm saving for gears as we speak , my 3:73s turn my 35s pretty nice but I know I need to regear not to stress my trans out. Think someone told me 5.13 gears but I think that's gonna be too low, will cross that bridge when I get to it I guess.

 

[df2x4]

I cranked my bars wide open to see how far it'll go. Will give 3" lift, rides like **** but will clear 35s unless u get in real twisty terrain. So I'm gonna get roasted for saying this, but I backed my bars down a little from full crank , cut almost an inch off my bump stops, welded a new plate across top of modified bump stops , longer front shocks and bought a diff drop, added 3" blocks in the rear along with ac Delco air shocks. Doesn't ride much different from my stock 98 Yukon ( a little rougher because of the 12ply tires) . Haven't put the diff drop on since I can't see enuff bad angle on CV axles to warrant the work to put it in. Even hanging on my hoist the angles aren't bad at all, im always jamming on it in 4x4 in the feet of snow we have here and no problems yet. I have spare axles so when I do break one I'll put the drop in then. Also just did a 3" body lift so I'm finally where I want it to be. This pic is with my cut 34.5 x 10.50s I use for winter, mud tires don't do well in the snow.

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Not going to roast, but I will say you're probably going to get tired of replacing front end parts. I ran my Suburban cranked to level (about 2") with larger wheels and tires for about five-six years and I had to rebuild the front end at least twice in that time.

I find it hard to believe that you don't notice much ride difference from stock... Cranking 2" made me feel like my teeth were going to fall out on gravel roads.