Tortsion bars question

[Ehall8702]

Not going to roast, but I will say you're probably going to get tired of replacing front end parts. I ran my Suburban cranked to level (about 2") with larger wheels and tires for about five-six years and I had to rebuild the front end at least twice in that time.

I find it hard to believe that you don't notice much ride difference from stock... Cranking 2" made me feel like my teeth were going to fall out on gravel roads.

Our roads r **** up here so EVERYTHING rides like **** lmao. I haven't noticed any work parts yet, but when they do a Detroit axle kit is $117 and takes me about 3.5 to 4hrs to replace the complete front end ( inners,outers,uppers,lowers,idler and pitman) since I do atleast 2 a week at the shop I got it down real fast. I trust the Detroit axle parts and they have a 10year warranty ( never had to warranty any yet and been putting them on for last 3 years). Beats both Moog and skf so far in both price and quality, I pull alot of very very recently out on Moog parts and skf here and there. Like I said I'll decide when I start having to replace parts if the 35s and cranked bars are worth it tho. Can't see spending $1300 on a rcx 4/6 and 6 hrs putting it in just to run 35s. I trail run my truck mildly and mostly a looker not a performer, my cj-5 is my dirty trail rig, it gets beat so my truck doesn't have to! My truck is a little stiffer than my Yukon but not enuff that I think it's worth dropping the keys about. Have had alot of huge lifted solid axle hay wagons that road like there was no shocks so maybe I'm biased a bit on what a " rough ride" really is too

 

[Mwagz21]

Our roads r **** up here so EVERYTHING rides like **** lmao. I haven't noticed any work parts yet, but when they do a Detroit axle kit is $117 and takes me about 3.5 to 4hrs to replace the complete front end ( inners,outers,uppers,lowers,idler and pitman) since I do atleast 2 a week at the shop I got it down real fast. I trust the Detroit axle parts and they have a 10year warranty ( never had to warranty any yet and been putting them on for last 3 years). Beats both Moog and skf so far in both price and quality, I pull alot of very very recently out on Moog parts and skf here and there. Like I said I'll decide when I start having to replace parts if the 35s and cranked bars are worth it tho. Can't see spending $1300 on a rcx 4/6 and 6 hrs putting it in just to run 35s. I trail run my truck mildly and mostly a looker not a performer, my cj-5 is my dirty trail rig, it gets beat so my truck doesn't have to! My truck is a little stiffer than my Yukon but not enuff that I think it's worth dropping the keys about. Have had alot of huge lifted solid axle hay wagons that road like there was no shocks so maybe I'm biased a bit on what a " rough ride" really is too

I came up 2.5”-3” in the front with a near full crank and If I go 3 mph over a speedbump my fuze box cover flies off and my head almost hits the ceiling. Front axle seals started leaking too. It’s coming back down. Not worth the look, and I was running 33” Trail grapplers. It was NOT worth it. RCX or nothing I’f you’re going to run mud tires. It’ll pay for itsself in saved damage cost.


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[Ehall8702]

I came up 2.5”-3” in the front with a near full crank and If I go 3 mph over a speedbump my fuze box cover flies off and my head almost hits the ceiling. Front axle seals started leaking too. It’s coming back down. Not worth the look, and I was running 33” Trail grapplers. It was NOT worth it. RCX or nothing I’f you’re going to run mud tires. It’ll pay for itsself in saved damage cost.
,,
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I have had the keys almost maxxed out for almost 6 months already, I change oil on it once a month and inspect it on my hoist and like I said I have no noticable wear it leaks yet...again I will revaluate when stuff wears out . Would I recommend someone to run thier tb up? No, I'm a professional mechanic and I regularly inspect my vehicles, and only put on about 8-10 miles a day so have no idea how this will last in a daily driver for a regular person. Just sharing my experiences with everyone was all. And I know most ppl don't bother to grease thier front end either maybe that helps alot, only time will tell I guess

 

[benscoterw]

I cranked my bars wide open to see how far it'll go. Will give 3" lift, rides like **** but will clear 35s unless u get in real twisty terrain. So I'm gonna get roasted for saying this, but I backed my bars down a little from full crank , cut almost an inch off my bump stops, welded a new plate across top of modified bump stops , longer front shocks and bought a diff drop, added 3" blocks in the rear along with ac Delco air shocks. Doesn't ride much different from my stock 98 Yukon ( a little rougher because of the 12ply tires) . Haven't put the diff drop on since I can't see enuff bad angle on CV axles to warrant the work to put it in. Even hanging on my hoist the angles aren't bad at all, im always jamming on it in 4x4 in the feet of snow we have here and no problems yet. I have spare axles so when I do break one I'll put the drop in then. Also just did a 3" body lift so I'm finally where I want it to be. This pic is with my cut 34.5 x 10.50s I use for winter, mud tires don't do well in the snow.

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What longer shocks did you go with?