Time to Get Serious With 4L60e/4L65e Cooling...

[df2x4]

I was either thinking the M7B or the Tru-Cool Part# 20-4590 @Wheeler mentioned earlier.

I just looked up that 20-4590. Be aware that it's got 11/32" hose barb fittings instead of 1/2" NPT threads like the M7B and 40K. Not a huge deal probably, but I prefer threaded fittings to hose barbs and clamps. Plus it's quite a bit taller than the M7B so the factory AUX cooler brackets and location probably won't work.

EDIT - Tru-Cool also has the H7B, which is exactly the same as the 20-4590 except it has 1/2" NPT fittings instead of the hose barbs.

 

[Curt]

I just looked up that 20-4590. Be aware that it's got 11/32" hose barb fittings instead of 1/2" NPT threads like the M7B and 40K. Not a huge deal probably, but I prefer threaded fittings to hose barbs and clamps. Plus it's quite a bit taller than the M7B so the factory AUX cooler brackets and location probably won't work.

EDIT - Tru-Cool also has the H7B, which is exactly the same as the 20-4590 except it has 1/2" NPT fittings instead of the hose barbs.

Thanks for the correction. My mistake, I quoted Wheeler's and had the H7B in my head. As far as fitting it goes, I can't see it being too daunting. Fabbing up some brackets and modifying the lines wouldn't be terrible and the bigger cooler is a massive plus in my book

 

[df2x4]

As far as fitting it goes, I can't see it being too daunting. Fabbing up some brackets wouldn't be terrible and the bigger cooler is a massive plus in my book

Very true, but if you have to move it too much from the factory location then your factory hard lines might not reach properly. Once again not a huge deal, but you might end up spending more money.

 

[Supercharged111]

I skipped all 7 pages to tell you that something in your setup or driving style is just plain wrong. The trans on my 1500 almost never exceeds 180 with a 9000# enclosed car hauler behind it with a modified engine and stock cooling. It sounds like your converter isn't staying locked. Do you pull with the lever in 3rd or 4th?

 

[Curt]

I skipped all 7 pages to tell you that something in your setup or driving style is just plain wrong. The trans on my 1500 almost never exceeds 180 with a 9000# enclosed car hauler behind it with a modified engine and stock cooling. It sounds like your converter isn't staying locked. Do you pull with the lever in 3rd or 4th?

Yep, finally found out my setup was wrong today. I do understand the skepticism with my driving style. There are a lot of idiots who tow with the gear selector in D 100% of their tow. This post here explains the fault in the setup. Huge mistake and I'm still kicking myself for not finding it sooner: https://www.gmt400.com/posts/1114210/ . I just ordered a 454SS radiator thanks to @BNielsen and going to be correcting the issue shortly.

To answer your driving style question, I tow in 3rd on the inclines and put the the truck in D only when the TC can lock. Feel free to read my reply to @L31MaxExpress with the same question: https://www.gmt400.com/posts/1113974/

 

[Curt]

Very true, but if you have to move it too much from the factory location then your factory hard lines might not reach properly. Once again not a huge deal, but you might end up spending more money.

Haha dang, caught me right before I edited my post. Yep, not worried about modifying the factory hard lines. A little extra cost, and a bit of elbow grease for a huge cooler is well worth it.

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Well, to update the thread. I have things on order and will be installing this entire list once all parts arrive:

Tru-Cool H7B
Derale 13011 (Trans Thermostat, overkill but I already had it on order so might as well install it)
Tube Cutter (for modifying hard lines, if needed)
454SS Radiator
ACDelco DEXRON-VI
ACDelco Deep Pan Filter & Gasket
CFR Performance 4L60e/65e pan

All-in-all in under $450. Well worth it if it means worry-free temps for a long-long time List is definitely preliminary right now, I'm sure I'll be needing fittings and what-not if line adapting is necessary. Will make a finalized list once project is done.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

All licensing for Dex III permanently expired at the end of 2006 with no renewal. GM stopped enforcing the licensing then too, so any company that claims that they're compatible with Dex III is purely a guess. GM also stated in their specifications for transmission fluids that any company that claims their fluid is compatible with Dex III fluid should be avoided. FWIW, Dex VI is fully backwards compatible with other variants of the fluid. I'd choose a licensed and controlled Dex VI trans fluid over a competitor who states they're Dex III compatible. Also, I've thrown Dex VI in our towpig (03 H2 that states it needs Dex III) and it feels better with VI over III. Just my .02 though, YMMV.

i tried it in my 85E and it felt like it was slipping and had high shift adaptives. I swapped the fluid for Valvoline DexIII and changed the EPC while I was in the trans. Between the new EPC and DexIII it shifts normally now with neutral adaptives. I found out the EPCs actually get skewed over time and drop about 10% line pressure. I multiplied the EPC current table by 0.9 in the tune to comvat the overtime drift. Shifts firm like it should under all operating conditions now. I would honestly trust a quality aftermarket fluid manufacturer over GM. GM is in business to build and sell new cars and parts, not keep old ones going forever.

 

[Pinger]

Dex III licensing expired in 2006. GM stopped enforcing the licensing then too, so any company that claims that they're compatible with Dex III is purely a guess. Personally, I wouldn't trust any Dex III fluid that simply states it's compatible with Dex III cars when no one certifies that statement as true.

.

Not if the product has been in continuous production from before 2006 though when GM licensed it.

 

[Pinger]

On a side note, I just replaced the CFI with MPFI and found something shocking. @L31MaxExpress was onto something with the radiator. Granted, I always believe in the best in people but I found out some f**king idiot bypassed the radiator trans lines and used a piece of rubber hose to route the lines into each other. I was and still am blown away. The sad part is, it looked like it was done a while ago and unfortunately no one throughout the years caught it, myself included. Now educating myself on transmission cooling lines, the issue was a big slap in the face. I am not sure why the idiot bypassed the radiator but after talking to my dad it was probably done back in 2004-2005 when the second 60e died. We got stuck in a little town with a transmission shop and my dad told them that he just "needed to get home". I'm assuming I've been running cooler-less ever since. Without a gauge, I'm positive that's why the 3rd 60e did NOT last long. I admit to my naive-ness for sure. Don't know who's the bigger idiot here... me or the guy who bypassed the radiator. I really should've caught this earlier but nothing I can do now but fix it. New radiator will be on order and lines will be connected shortly after. Then I will decide if the 40k cooler is necessary.

The same has been done on my 2500C Suburban - the difference being that my lines have been re-routed directly to the external tube cooler. I intend rectifying this as I don't like the fact that the ATF is missing the pre-warming from the saddle cooler on the main rad but then again, there's no heat there until the coolant thermostat opens....

What I really don't understand is why the main rad saddle cooler was bypassed. Not because the two fluids were mixing as the coolant would still leak (ATF side is open, ie, no fittings in place so leaking coolant would be obvious). I haven't found time to properly leak test the ATF side for leaks to outside (preliminary but not exhaustive) check showed no sign of leaking though.
Re-connecting the pipe work to it is the obvious thing to do - but not before establishing why it was bypassed (add concerns with cleanliness).
There must be a reason why yours and mine were bypassed.

 

[Curt]

Not if the product has been in continuous production from before 2006 though when GM licensed it.

True, but my point was it is no longer held up to a certain standard and regulations. If the bottle states it is compatible with Dex III, how would we know? Formulas get modified as times go on and I'm sure companies modify the formula to be more cost-friendly for them to produce if no one is watching. Either ways, it's really all consumer speculation. Here's a document from a fluid company that talks about DEX III a little bit. I find it interesting how they suggest avoiding DEX III since it is no longer regulated. But, it could just be a marketing gimmick. http://www.smittysinc.net/userfiles/productLiterature/SUS-ApprovalsBook-2017.pdf (Pages 16-17 is what I'm referring to) @L31MaxExpress had issues when switching over, when I switched over the trans in our H2 felt better. Seems like a YMMV deal.

____________________________________
@alpinecrick @Pinger @df2x4

Found the answer to the DEX VI transfer case, manual trans, power steering question. I managed to find a GM TSB stating that if you have transfer case or manual transmission that used DEX III, use the P/N 88861800 as the replacement. For power steering pumps use the P/N 9985010.

GM TSB here: https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/91398/2622890