T-stat housing bolts

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Road Trip

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Well, I tried everything I could think of and got a whole bunch of advice from other folks, and everything failed. Both bolts are broken off now, and the truck is at work over the weekend. We used heat, all kinds of penetrating oils, vibration, etc. Even tried welding nuts to the exposed threads. So, she's stuck till Monday and I got a loaner to drive for the weekend. More bummed than mad....never had an issue like this working on the old small blocks. Now I know why everything else was replaced EXCEPT the thermostat!

Greetings Jerrys1990,

You reminded me of the good old repair days where all normal stock SBCs had cast iron intake
manifolds from the factory and the thermostat bolts rarely (if ever) resisted removal. Now with
today's lighter aluminum intakes we run into this dissimilar metal hole/fastener seizing.

And if you are like me, once you get through fighting the good fight to get the stuck busted
hardware out of your intake (or end up replacing the manifold, whichever makes the most sense)
...you hate putting it all back together the same way, all the while wondering if you are going to
go through all this *yet again* at some point in the future?

Been there, hated that. But instead of fighting what normally wants to happen, how about
we take advantage of this by taking the opportunity to upgrade from a couple of bolts (that
have to turn out of the threaded holes in the aluminum intake manifold) to a pair of
(stationary) studs + (same material, non-seizing) nuts?

Especially if after the removal/thread clean-up process the remaining threads only give a
'wobbly' fit with the new bolts? By the way, bonus points for:

* Setting the new studs with RED Loctite. ("Stud & Bearing Mount")

* And to avoid having the new studs take a set while crooked, install the studs with
red Loctite, temporarily place the thermostat housing into the home position, and
then install/tighten the corresponding nuts finger tight (plus a skosh) so that as the
red Loctite sets the studs are held perfectly vertical?

* Once the red Loctite has had time to fully cure, then remove the nuts, fill the thermost
opening with coolant to just below the surface, install the thermostat + gasket, and then install
the housing & torque the nuts to spec.

****

Done with care, this turns a possibly marginal fix into a robust, literally 'easier than new to
maintain' repair. Q: Should GM have used studs instead of bolts on these aluminum intake manifolds
back when they were originally made? A: I happen to think so...but by the same token they
never asked for my input. I am obviously not their ideal new vehicle customer. :0)

Just one of those tricks you pick up after a lifetime of driving more old than new.
 
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evilunclegrimace

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He is dealing with blind holes,he doesn't need thread sealer he needs antiseize. The bronze colored aintiseize works best in my opinion.
The thread sealer is to help prevent galvanic corrission and to seal out any moisture from getting into the threads.
 

GoToGuy

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The problem with red is if you ever want to remove the hardware, strong stud coated red in aluminum base, there's a strong possibility of the aluminum threads will blowout.
On certain assemblies, aluminum, green permatex is approved as a thread locking material, 3/8 and smaller.
 

Schurkey

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On any stud screwed into aluminum, consider using an "activator" with that thread-locker.

Thread locker needs two things to actually work properly--lack of oxygen (anaerobic) and an active metal--iron, steel, brass, maybe some others. Aluminum is not "active" in terms of setting-up threadlocker. The steel stud you screw into the aluminum is, so you do stand a chance of having it set. But maybe that "steel" stud has a rust-preventative coating/plating that interferes with setting the threadlocker.

A spritz of activator makes certain.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKTSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Road Trip

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The problem with red is if you ever want to remove the hardware, strong stud coated red in aluminum base, there's a strong possibility of the aluminum threads will blowout.
On certain assemblies, aluminum, green permatex is approved as a thread locking material, 3/8 and smaller.

That's valid & constructive feedback. As a matter of fact, I personally rarely use the
red because you can't change your mind about something being pretty much
permanently fastened.

For example, I would be hesitant to use the red on a rare/valuable/collectible intake for
the very reason you mentioned. On the other hand, if the OP can use the red in order
to salvage a fix on an everyday stock intake without having to take it off the engine,
then anything I can use to (hopefully) tip the repair scales in my favor I won't hesitate
to use. Sure, the studs will never leave that intake without incurring battle damage,
but as long as the nuts allow me access to the thermostat down the road without a
fight, then in my book that's a clear maintainability win.

On any stud screwed into aluminum, consider using an "activator" with that thread-locker.

Thread locker needs two things to actually work properly--lack of oxygen (anaerobic) and an active metal--iron, steel, brass, maybe some others. Aluminum is not "active" in terms of setting-up threadlocker. The steel stud you screw into the aluminum is, so you do stand a chance of having it set. But maybe that "steel" stud has a rust-preventative coating/plating that interferes with setting the threadlocker.

A spritz of activator makes certain.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKTSG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's a solid bit of advice. I do remember that when using the activator, it really does
speed up the cure time. (As in, once you start the process do not allow yourself to be
interrupted.) Done right, this is the only way to fly when safety wiring is out of the
question...
 
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xXxPARAGONxXx

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Too late now, and I don't know if it's been tried, but for future reference, try a Mayhew Tools 37315 3/8" drive air hammer bit in a air hammer, with the appropriate socket, after letting it soak in PB Blaster and hitting with just a little bit of heat. If it fails using that method, failure was inevitable.
 

Scooterwrench

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Yup,Red locktite on anything you never want to remove and blue on anything you do. Locktite is a glue and just like any other adhesive it needs a clean surface to bond to. Always degrease your fasteners with solvent before applying threadlocker and you will never have a problem with it backing out. It's good practice to flush bolts and bolt holes(this includes nuts)with carb or brake cleaner before applying the threadlocker. I've found that putting a drop in blind holes works better than applying it to the bolt. It pushes the threadlocker down into the hole as you thread the bolt in. Sometimes you can't get to the hole so in those cases you would apply it to the bolt then run the bolt in part way and back it back out. When you back it out it creates a vacuum in the hole that will draw the threadlocker in. Being a custom bike builder has taught me how to get the most out of threadlockers,those big stroker motors will rattle everything off without it. I don't even use lock washers anymore,threadlocker makes them redundant.
 

thinger2

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One biggee to remember when using an external heat source, torches of any sort, if your base is aluminum and trying to remove the broken is harder material. The Aluminum will melt , a lot faster, like solid, the next eye blink, there's a puddle running away. Wrecked that, got the T shirt.
Yep! all of my life
I dont know if im frangilble or maybe i can chuck my dick out the door and hook some old broad like a ******* bullhead before the cops show up somebody
they are all amazing people.
But is a death cult.
One biggee to remember when using an external heat source, torches of any sort, if your base is aluminum and trying to remove the broken is harder material. The Aluminum will melt , a lot faster, like solid, the next eye blink, there's a puddle running away. Wrecked that, got the T shirt.
Yep! good call. I should have mentioned that.
When I was young I got it in my mind that I could heat shrink a dented aluminum semi fender using the same methods I had used on steel.
It did shrink.
But only because a big blob of it fell on the shop floor.
It was deffinetly smaller than when I started.
 

thinger2

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Yup,Red locktite on anything you never want to remove and blue on anything you do. Locktite is a glue and just like any other adhesive it needs a clean surface to bond to. Always degrease your fasteners with solvent before applying threadlocker and you will never have a problem with it backing out. It's good practice to flush bolts and bolt holes(this includes nuts)with carb or brake cleaner before applying the threadlocker. I've found that putting a drop in blind holes works better than applying it to the bolt. It pushes the threadlocker down into the hole as you thread the bolt in. Sometimes you can't get to the hole so in those cases you would apply it to the bolt then run the bolt in part way and back it back out. When you back it out it creates a vacuum in the hole that will draw the threadlocker in. Being a custom bike builder has taught me how to get the most out of threadlockers,those big stroker motors will rattle everything off without it. I don't even use lock washers anymore,threadlocker makes them redundant.
About 30 years ago I took on the task of flipping blades on a 14 foot Wysong shear.
Cuz I was young and stupid.
I got plus or minus .002 between fasteners and alowed angle runout of 1 degree between fasteners.
They had red locktited the fasteners and used lockwashers on fasteners that didnt need lockwashers and had made up some torque value right out of pure lunacy.
So I gave them the my " dont want to do it" quote.
I wasnt experianced enough to understand that If you nuke bomb somebody with a quote and they still want you to do it that means they are lying to you.
That means you should never ever do that job.
This pack of Jabronis torched the blades too get the screws to back out and wanted the same deal like nothing had ever happened.
I have never seen an entire piece of machinery heat warped but these boys had all the gas
I dont know if you have ever seen a pair of "Pinking Shears"
Pinking shears are the scissors your grandmother might have used to cut offset patterns in quilting.
These guys created the worlds largest set of pinking shears.
Its a bit hard to describe but ill try.
A sheet metal shear is one of the most dangerious pieces of machinery ever invented. Everything about operating a shear is ****** up.
You can hear the difference.
When it is working properly it makes a stamp noise when the hold down feet hit it and then a slick kinda shear cut noise and then the snap through noise.
When it is not right It makes a crumple noise and the hydraulics just keep pushing and then you need to run because every overloaded chunk of shrapnell is coming right back at you at nut level.
That to us old guys is just nothing
Just nothing but a beer or two.
We all ****** up and missed that part where we were supposed to welcome younger people into our trades and help them out and teach them our knowledge and make them a part of the comraderie of the shop.
You can not in any way think that you are a master of your craft if you arent thinking about how to pass that on when you retire.
You can think that you are the best ever...
But that is foolish.
That is the sure sign of a closed mind.
I dont know if anyone who makes this forum for us nows how to do what I know how to do.
I have no idea.
But I do know that I do not know how to do what they do.
That makes them a master of their craft.
And I also believe that people who are deeply involved with trying to moderate the internet world are probably pretty srtessed out.
Just like I believe that younger people are just barely trying to figure it out.
This is all very suddenly new.
to everbody.
I have in a few posts mentioned that my wife is an antiques broker and that I am a compulsive buyer of antiques.
Several years ago I bought an unmailed never postmarked german postcard that was sent out to everyone in germany when kaiser wilhelm died.
They were prepaid and had to be mailed back to support der furher and signed by Hermann Hess.
Pretty much the most evil ******* thing that I own.
It is very very rare and it will never be for sale.
I will keep it for now just for the historical freak of it but If a museam doesnt want it when I die its ******* burnt.
Its ******* sick and twisted

I also own the letters and pictures and all of the documents from an Italian Army doctor who was stationed at camp lewis, which became fort lewis and then JBLM.
He documented what happened to the men at camp lewis when the 1918 flu hit.
And we just bought what might be a pre columbian perasca culture headband for 20 bucks that we may have to return to Peru if I try to sell it.
I am a history nut. I usually read 3 or 4 books at the same time just because they sometimes provide clues that you normally wouldnt link together.
And that happens quite often.
Sometimes my friends with their walmart decor try to chuck some shade at me .
I am a treasure hunter who doesnt need a ship.
Mom will be 80 in two weeks.
Amongst all of all of her gifts will be flowers in a 2 thousand year old vase.
Adventure is all around you every day.
You dont need a treasure ship you dont need a big x marks the spot.
When I moved back to Seattle I had nothing. My ex ripped me for 280,000 thousand dollars
280k I had my tools, my guns and a friggen frying pan and one chair.
The girl I met who is now my wife of twenty years got ripped even worse.
We didnt have **** all of any thing.
But, she has what the call "the eye"
And I have looked at a whole lot of silver and gold over the years because it was my job.
Over the first five years or so we bought about 50 percent unsellable junk.
Mainly because we didnt understand that condition is everything.
No chips no scratch allowed.
I was always into the buying part of it but I thought that selling my crap at an antique show would be boring.
And it really is
She did shows for years before I did one.
1,500 bucks cash in ten minutes from other dealers before the show even opened.
And, I may sling some poo now and again.
But that is only because I am a well trained former car salesman..
Did I mentioned that those teacups match yer eyes?
 
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