Solder vs crimps

[PlayingWithTBI]

^^^X2

This is an age old subject with everyone having different opinions. I can tell you N.E.C. (National Electric Code) doesn't allow soldering wire joints, they get brittle and can break under vibration. This is under industrial applications where there's less vibration than automotive.

Properly crimp with quality connectors, heat shrink especially in the rust belt, and move on.

 

[Hipster]

Once you get used to soldering you

Crimp connectors are a very large category you cant just dismiss, because you wanna get down and dirty then you will have people in here telling you about aviation and nasa stuff where you would be an idiot to solder your connections lol!

They sell crimp connectors without the wrap around them. They also sell the proper crimping tools. They also sell marine grade shrink tubing with epoxy that seals them at the ends

Yeah, I get it, bring it, let's get some NASA and aviation engineers on here. Ends are almost always crimped, but you also have a a clip/housing or some other fixture supporting the ends.

 

[Hipster]

^^^X2

This is an age old subject with everyone having different opinions. I can tell you N.E.C. (National Electric Code) doesn't allow soldering wire joints, they get brittle and can break under vibration. This is under industrial applications where there's less vibration than automotive.

Properly crimp with quality connectors, heat shrink especially in the rust belt, and move on.

There's always arguements both directions. Alot depends on the skill of the person doing it. Nec code might be fine for applications where there is less vibration then automotive or motorcycles. No matter the method always support your work on both sides.

 

[Hipster]

As with anything, search on the internet long and hard enough you will find an opinion that matches ones's justification and/or reasoning for doing something the way they are doing it. I convey my experiences of my training and experience.

To think one is going to walk into the parts store, purchase some dime store butt connectors , and all is going to be golden is a massive understatement.

 

[Caman96]

For the record, the connectors I posted are from Crutchfield and SAE Certified. Again, they have their place, but to lump them in with those cheap 3M connectors is wrong. They actually make an incredibly strong connection.

 

[Hipster]

For the record, the connectors I posted are from Crutchfield and SAE Certified. Again, they have their place, but to lump them in with those cheap 3M connectors is wrong. They actually make an incredibly strong connection.

My I-Car trining as far as collision repair goes won't allow me to use butt connectors on anything for the reasons I have described, SAE approved or otherwise. Justify using butt connectors however you like, I'm bound not to use them. Just because it's ok for a stereo doesn't make it fine for automotive use elsewhere.

 

[Caman96]

For the 3rd time, I’ve said they have their place. But, I and other’s have used them on Atv’s that take a far more severe beating than most cars with zero failure. I’m not talking about your dime store butt connectors.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I can't remember a case of something that I soldered failing and I'm not even good at it. I also can't remember a time that I had a good heatshrink weatherproof double crimped butt connector fail. Had tons of the cheapy connectors fail, usually the wire just pulls out.

 

[stutaeng]

I have used both. For the crimp connectors I like the specialty pliers that get a lot of leverage, not the all-in-one stripping/crimping pliers. Inside I don't have a problem using them. For outside, use the waterproof version with the heat shrink. Or solder and head shrink.

Actually, one of my trucks is currently running with the injector wire pigtails just twisted together with electrical tape. So, sometimes the answer is neither!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

This is an age old subject with everyone having different opinions

^^^ And this is why I prefaced my answer with this

On another note...

Then there is the Western Union splicing method twist and solder (nasa proven that one is a srong bond)

I haven't heard of "Western Union" splicing method since I took an "Applied Electricity" class my freshman year summer school class in '67. I've used it numerous times for audio and other low voltage stuff through the years with and without solder